Rubbing after new UCAs

AKTCHUALLY UR WRONG

 

Nah.

 

So what don't you understand about this diagram?! I am truly confused as to why you guys can't wrap your head around this...

The green line is positive - as you can see the green line is pushing the wheel towards the bed of the Tundra - or body mount.

 

The Camburg UCAs, like most after markets, move the upper ball joint/uniball aft which allows more alignment in the LCA. There is a reason most prefer 4+ degrees in the Tundra. @rustytoys please go get an alignment and ask for 0 or negative numbers and update us on how great the clearance from the body mount is. In the diagram the wheel pushes forward from the LCA, not the stationary UCA.
Edit: go take the spindle off your upper control arm and move it around it will make sense.

 

Correct, stock UCA no body mount rub - Camburg positive caster UCA and you now have body mount rub on your truck as your wheel has been moved toward the bed of the truck; I'd say its only set back maybe 1/2" or 3/4" max if you measured the middle of the tire - but it is setting back some now. Just chop the body mount, would be a nice upgrade really.

 

So your saying if i drop the numbers to 4+ i should clear the body mount? Im at 6.6 and im rubbing at half way thru turning the wheel forward or reverse this is what makes no sense! Rusty had a valid point i didnt rub with stock arm that had less caster??

 

I'm not a mariner, but it sounds like you are saying the upper ball joint on a Camburg moves the wheel towards the bed of the truck correct? Kind of like I have been saying for the last hour?!

 

Read the post. The UCA goes aft which increases the caster angle positive (moving the wheels contact patch forward)

 

Good luck OP. This has derailed to full retard!

 

Since when did the Caster angle of an Upper Control Arm start making changes to a lower control arm? Damn, those are some magical control arms you guys got!

 

You forgot to make the positive caster driver have a frowny face!

 

Thought about it but I was laughing my ass off when "drawing" it.

 

An Upper Control Arm is only affecting the top control arm area, the Lower Control Arm is not moving - as all of the diagrams and drawings suggest - this is perhaps why you guys can't wrap your head around this.

When you move the upper ball joint towards the rear of the Truck bed (like Camburg UCA's do with built-in positive caster) - and you keep your stock lower control arms as they were - then obviously the mostly top portion of your wheel/tire follow that ball joint. It's that simple.

 

I drew this illustration so you guys can understand this better, as those other ones are misleading - as they all seem to change the lower UCA position. In the real world this is what a Camburg high-caster control arm does - and this is why the OP's tire is now hitting his body mount.

 

@rustytoys so your saying if i decrease the castor on the LCA the tire will move forward following the UCA's ball joint but will still remain positive since it has built in positive caster or am i missing something??

 

Not sure if I totally follow, but you can overcome built-in-caster of a UCA - they are "building in" caster - but that doesn't mean you couldn't overcome it. However, moving the lower UCA while keeping a Camburg upper would I think end up really wonky - like the reverse of those old 60's funny cars? I guess

 

What you are missing is that the largest diameter of the tire moves forward with the increased caster. That is why higher caster increases the chances of clearing the Body mount. The LCA plays a role in this also. There is a reason there is adjustability in them.

 

I never touched that lower ball joint circle in my illustration - it stayed in exactly the same place in both examples. As you can see the tire moved towards the bed of the truck.

However, lets entertain what you are saying - if you are correct, then why exactly did the OP not rub his body mount with stock caster (2'ish positive) - but now with MORE positive caster in the 6.5 range he now rubs his body mount? His stated problem sort of disproves what you are saying. If you disagree with why he is rubbing now - after he has MORE positive caster - then please explain?!

 

I don’t know about Camburgs, but one who helped me with my Total Chaos had me at +3. Now, mine is a Gen I. I’m actually around +2.8. I think later model Tundras go higher towards +6, but it seems you are too high. Positive moves the wheel back from the top, the bottom is unchanged.

 

Everyone else making pictures, didnt want to feel left out

 

Wow, this is mind numbing.
Does everyone agree that the aftermarket UCA has the Upper ball joint location moved further back(aka towards rear of truck) compared to the stock UCA?

 

So i keep reading about this issue and ppl claim that with the Camburgs you can shoot for higher numbers in castor because it pushes the ball joint further back to avoid the bmc and increases caster because of the way they are built! 7's 8's even and bring camber in at the negative, .01-.03 with even toe because they are purposely designed that way with crazy high caster for aggressive driving, any thoughts on this for the experienced? Still
Waiting on Camburg to email me back their insights, Thanks to all for good and bad info

 

Some cool shit here!!

 

Look at my illustration again, pushing the ball joint back (towards cab) is pushing the wheel right into the cab body mount... you do see that right? I mean, you are experiencing exactly that issue - your wheel is now hitting your cab body mount AFTER Camburg installation, correct? All of the answers are right there.

I have already told you that you need to chop your cab body mount to fix this. Or, if you want to complicate your life - you can buy new lower-caster control arms like SPC or Zone, install them, get another alignment, go through the entire process all over - and cross your fingers that +1 built-in caster won't rub... OR, buy all new smaller tires and different offset wheels - again, huge amount of work and money. Now, doesn't simply chopping the cab mount seem like the simplest solution? (Btw, I don't mean to sound harsh, but just know your not going to find some missing adjustment or easy fix to your problem, a chop is probably you're easiest option)

 

With only 1.9” lift and 295s on +20mm offset, put back on stock UCAs, get alignment and all will be fixed.

 

The Camburg ball joint sets back very roughly 1" from stock (Positive Caster) - that means your entire wheel and tire is moving towards the Cab and body mount.

 

Many of you appear to think that Caster regulates wheel position - this is not the case - Caster is only a measurement of angle - the wheel can be placed forward like a funny-car or rear towards the cab - with each instance achieving the same degree of positive Caster.

The example below on the left is apparently what many of you were thinking when you stated that positive Caster would move the tire farther away from the cab body mount. However, doing this is only possible with a LOWER CONTROL ARM adjustment - BUT, THE OP HAD INSTALLED CAMBURG UPPER CONTROL ARMS - THAT IS WHAT THE THREAD WAS ABOUT. The Tundra has almost no ability to introduce positive Caster through the LCA cam adjustment (as +Caster sacrifices your Camber) - this is why UCA’s are so popular.

This leaves you with the example on the right. The only way to introduce any significant caster on your Tundra is with a high-caster Upper Control Arm, which is going to push the wheel/tire closer to the cab body mount.

 

@rustytoys you were 100% right, dropped the caster, more responsive... less wonky! bmc a must tho, oh well
Thanks