RSI Smart Cap

As a note to other prospective RSI EvoA purchasers, the molle size RSI uses is not universal. I didn't know that. The only molle backing plate I found is being made by someone on Etsy for $12 a pair. Mojave Manufacturing if you're interested. It's a 1.125 x 1.5"(or 1 11/16 depending on versions it would appear). I'm debating just drilling a hole in the molle panel to mount some quick fists with simple bolts but the molle panel is pretty thin.

I'm looking to mount a few tools to the inside of the cap. There are a plethora of magnet based mounting solutions on Amazon. The threaded inserts in the ceiling are M8-1.25 thread pitch; they also provide some options. I'm going to ceiling mount some maxtrax using the table threaded inserts with clamp knobs. Just need to ensure you don't over-penetrate the bolt through the insert and dent the roof from the inside. The threaded cavity is 20mm deep.

Researching the electrolatch Furnlocks carried by Mike's Custom Toys next. Curious about wiring into the door to integrate with the vehicle's native key fob.

 

I am grateful for your posts re your RSI SmartCap @Reubenski. I would love to see pics of your SmartCap and the build so far, including challenges and your steps forward. I can already tell that your research and attention to detail are going to contribute a lot to this thread. I met a SmartCap owner in California recently who was using magnets to organize of gear in really cool configurations.

 

Ever take a look at that filter? Easy enough to change if needed? Looking a cap but not sure I want to deal with leaks

 

@Reubenski I bought the EVOa and had a local installer put it on my 2024 Tundra. This was last Friday. Friday night my truck was sitting in my driveway while 80 mph winds with rain hammered the new cap during the night in the St. Louis, MO area. No water leakage at all. I’m pretty happy

 

Post some pics of your new EVOa for us! How much did the installers charge you? Great to hear you had no water leakage during the crazy recent storms!

 

Thanks. I'll take some better pictures tomorrow. Just finished wiring in some rock lights on magnets with a switch into the bed. I cut more of the gasket away and "think" I've got the tailgate working error free. I'm working on some quickfist on the windoor molle and some clamps crews in the ceiling threaded inserts to hang some traction boards.

We haven't had any rain so far. A little snow, some 50-60mph winds. All dry inside but I did stay at a cabin over the weekend that was a mile drive off the hardball road. 5 or 6 trips up and down the dirt road and I have some dust infiltrating.

 

Looks amazing!!!!

 

Let me know what you figure out, I should have a fire extinguisher and Quickfists sitting on my front porch when I get home today. I have been trying to figure out how everyone in the Car Camping (overlanding) world mounts stuff to the metal molle panels. I've seen some 3d printed mounting plates with pressed in threads, but I doubt those would hold up over time.

Pic for attention

 

@Reubenski and @Garand your smartcaps both look spectacular on your trucks. I'm very enthusiastic to get an EVO-A on mine. I'm worried about fit into my garage (I have the 3" lift). Great to learn that you are both very happy w/your Smartcaps and that leakage is minimal (with minor dust entry). The RSIs look amazing on your Lunar Rock and Magnetic Grey, I love my Army Green and think the smartcap will look amazing on my color as well.

The fact that the caps are magnetic opens up so many possibilities. I look forward to hopefully seeing pics of how you've set them up on the inside w/MOLLE or 1/2 or full bins, and what magnetic accessories you've bought. Are all latches now openable from the inside, and do they have covers to help w/cold and ice?

Are your beds standard or 6.5’?

 

So far the only "mod" I've done to my cap is one of these magnetic HF LED lights stuck to the rear hatch. Cheap and works great went loading/unloading at night

 

The RSI website has youtube videos on how to remove filter to clean with air. Doesn't sound like you're suppose to wash with water. Or at least the video only mentioned using air to clean it after you remove it. Looks easy to do. The video also shows you're suppose to put tape (electric tape) over the opening to the vent while at a car wash. No freaking way I"m doing that lol.
(general videos) https://www.na.rsismartcap.com/assembly-fitment
(vent) https://vimeo.com/818036453/43668b7057?share=copy

 

Mine is 5.5ft and the latches seem to be the new style. They do open from the inside. Even when locked.

I ordered and received a bunch of quickfists but haven't successfully mounted anything yet. The first one I ordered was the Rago kit and it's made to be mounted only on their molle pattern using screws, not via the molle square. I thought about just drilling a hole but their mounting hardware has the quickfist sitting two inches out from the surface of the panel so I didn't really like that. I ordered a 28" shovel to mount inside the Adv door but when it arrived it was hilariously small. Like kid sized so back it goes. I ordered some M8 bolts and clamp screws to mount traction boards to the ceiling via the table screw inserts and mounted it last night but it feels like a lot of weight for two of those threaded inserts. I can feel a little bit of play. I don't think it's going to work over the long term. I think they'll pull out with the weight of two traction boards so that's back to square one as well.

My next idea is to mount two 30"L x 10"H x 13" deep tool boxes to the Toyota bed rail system against the bulkhead wall. Sandwiched next to each other for a total 60" of length and top of the tool boxes sitting just above the base of the Smart Cap. I'm hoping this is feasible to allow me full length of the short bed under the boxes and access to each box through the respective side winddoors. I doubt bolts to the bed rail system will support the weight of the tool boxes alone and have been brainstorming mounting hardware ideas. I contacted a couple of companies that make bed brackets like Rago but no one is interested in making a straight hanger plate that goes from the bed rail to the floor of the bed. The existing Rago bed brackets are $100 for two and I would need three sets if I did decide to use theirs. In the end, It's probably easier to just make a a 2x6 bench to go under the tool boxes to assist in supporting their loaded weight. I'm looking at this toolbox from Amazon.

$90 YITAMOTOR 30" Truck Bed Tool Box, Heavy Duty Aluminum Diamond Plate Tool Box with Sliding Shelf, Trailer Tool box for Pick Up Truck RV Trailer, Chest Storage Organizer with Lock and Keys

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8JDNPFR

The Diamondback bed cover has this cross bin that was the original inspiration. I just decided I'd need a lid. https://diamondbackcovers.com/products/cross-bin-8

 

Very similar looking truck. The only thing I was successful in mounting so far was a fire extinguisher on magnets. Just found some 20lb threaded magnets on Amazon and bolted them to the extinguisher bracket. Mounted it to one of the rear corners.

 

I just did the same thing, The quickfists I ordered didn't fit the fire extinguisher. I followed your lead and mounted it to a couple Harbor Freight magnets I had laying around. I initially put it in the rear corner, but didn't like the idea of that sucker rocketing through the back glass in an accident. I moved it to the front corner where it cant get a clear shot at the back of my head!

 

Getting donkey punched by a $20 Amazon fire extinguisher would be an embarrassing way to go

 

I have a Double Cab, so the standard 6.5ft bed

 

Anyone know if there are plans to make the 07-21 caps in NA vs SA?

 

I haven't gotten around to putting the sealant on the roof seams yet. We had a very light skiff of snow Saturday night and it warmed up Sunday with high winds. It didn't even cover the ground. I was loading things into the bed of the truck and saw a leak in the bed. Up front on the bulkhead rail under the glass window. Tracked it down to a three way joint between the long seam of the three pieces roof and the perpendicular seam of the front panel. Just a small (and I mean small) amount of snow melting on the roof leaked through the t shaped joint. I washed the truck last night and got water in through the openings of where the tailgate meets the back window and the corners of the cap. Where I had to trim the seal down for the automatic tailgate. That is to be expected. I got water in through the little u shaped dips on the corners of the bulkhead wall. I kind of expected that as well. And those two areas will be easy to seal. And I got water in through the three way joint in the roof again. It's a very small drip. I'm thinking the black silicone I have will fix it but wanted to report it in case anyone had an suspicions about the new three piece roof. Yes, it seems to be another place for leaks.

 

That cap will continue to be made in SA for now.

 

I think you posted a while back on the NA and SA differences but I could find it. Is it just the locks that are different?

 

At this point it may just be the locks.

 

^Thanks

 

Handmade vs manufactured IIRC.

I reached out to their customer service center for RSI.

“Unfortunately not at this time, however that is something that has been discussed at SmartCap, but nothing definitive on that yet. If we do, we'll announce it via our email subscriber list – The Tribe (https://www.na.rsismartcap.com/join-the-tribe). You may want to sign up for that list and stay up to date on all things SmartCap. Sorry we don't have better news for you at this time.”

 

Well, I just had the first of the replacement latches start failing. I reached out to them again we'll see what their answer will be.

Unfortunately they sent me a different lock number (after first asking for the number lol) when they sent new latches.

3 of the old latches were "good" so I will swap one out for now and carry 2 keys. I did try to just swap the lock barrel out, but I cannot get purchase on a bit on the interior screws holding it in. The pins are all flared into place so further disassembly to get access isn't possible for me.

 

Anyone installed the Electrolatch Auto locks in their smart cap yet? Looking for some success stories and interested in anyone that wired them to their doors to use the factory key fob instead of the little nugget key fob that comes with the entire set of locks.

I think conventional wisdom says to wire the positive to the positive wire that powers the locks on your doors, but it seems like everything on these new trucks is can bus. So I'm wondering if there even is a 12-volt hot on the door locks. I wonder if I'd have to buy a second can bus reader to get the lock and unlock signal from the doors and then run the positive and ground can bus wires all the way to my battery?

 

We have had great success connecting to a passenger door lock actuator, even with CAN BUS.

 

That is awesome to hear. Do you by chance have any photos of where that wire is or a description on how you got to it and where it's located?

 

We prefer to attach at the actual door lock actuator. Violet is unlock and Blue is lock

 

Ever since Hard Korr lighting pulled out of the US we have been looking to find a good replacement for canopy interior lighting. While there are some offerings out there, many didn't include amber lights. So instead we decided to make our own canopy lighting kit. Available two ways one with pre length screw together connections and one with bulk wire for a more custom clean look.

https://mikescustomtoys.com/products/canopy-interior-lighting-kit

 

I am looking at the full Monty set up . The cap with the windows on the side. The authorized dealer says approximately $4600.00 before tax. Same price if I install it myself or if I have them do it. Besides going used. Is there a deal codes or ways to get it at a discount? Peace. D