Rotor upgrade help.warped for no reason

Call any brake shop or dealer and say you think your rotors are warped and they will tell you that sometimes that happens. I don't think you even read my post. I agree technically it is not warped--it is an uneven braking surface that has run out. You can put a dial gauge on it and it will show the run out. People loosely call such "run out" as "warped". Everyone knows it is run out but they use the term "warped". How may different ways can I say and explain reality? None of your links have anything to do with what I wrote.

 

Before spending the money on new rotors, try rotating and balancing your tires.

 

Not a bad idea, but I don't think that is the reason for mine. I think it is pad build up on the rotor. I have rotated and balanced my tires and I am running Michelin all season street tires (the most expensive version), probably the smoothest running tire you can run on a truck. Plus, it only does it when I hit the brakes, which logic would say has something to do with the brakes. It rolls as smooth as butter without applying the brakes.

 

Thanks. I misread stuff all the time. Believe me, so no worries. You are a good man.

 

Just to add to what I know about rotors, rotors can get "hot spots" (which are higher portions of the run out) on them where heat builds up and those spots become harder metal (like heat treated) and thus do not wear evenly with the rest of the metal on the rotor, and eventually the rotor surface will have high and low spots (run out). These hot spots (or highest parts of the run out) continue to hold extreme heat and will "glaze" your brake pads. Basically, your pads are only making contact with the highest portions of the run out and a lot of heat builds up on those high spots. I probably did not write this the best way, but hopefully that makes sense. This is really how run out happens. It starts with just a little natural run out and exacerbates into a cycle that causes a lot of run out, which is felt as pulsating brakes after that IMO.

 

Mine were shot at about 35k. It's a quick swap but a little annoying. Never had any truck's rotors go that quick

 

What did you go back with as far as rotors and pads? Toyota? I read reviews of a lot of the aftermarket stuff, and I am seeing some folks having trouble with those "warping" as well. Some folks give great reviews, but the reviews are right after they put the aftermarket on the truck and thus anything will be great at that point--wait about 30-40k and write how they are holding up.

 

I put Toyota rotors and pad back on. I'm a strictler for factory parts, even though they let me down. It's such a quick swap if I have to do it again at 80k, I won't cry too much

 

It’s a heavy truck. Rotors always warp or whatever you want to call it. I’m in stop and go traffic for an hour and a half twice a day For the last 10 years, which is about as bad for warping as you can get. Toyota rotors and pads last the longest.

 

I go through a set of pads every 9000 miles because I'm always pounding on the brakes off road. To the point they smoke all the time.

I use EBC yellows and OEM rotors.

I typically put 3 sets of pads on the rotors before they get too thin.

I've never had a warped rotor

 

Bedding in brakes when you get a new vehicle or change rotors and pads can prevent uneccessary headaches's down the line and give you full potential of your hardware.

https://www.dbabrakes.eu/basic-initial-brake-bed-in

 

My last two pad changes I threw them on and drove it like I stole it. I don't bed them in anymore

 

Good God warped ,run out, wearing uneven what the fuck ever, yeah im sure my lugs were torqued wrong from the factory resulting in my shit pulse pedal along with thousands of other people.

 

Just had mine in for its last 20k service. Had a vibration with braking I noted when dropping it off.

They called and stated the rotors were warped and they cut them(all under warranty). Good as new now. Will definstely look for aftermarket brakes when these get worn down. Warped at 20k miles is a little unreal to me.

My old frontier warped the oem at 15k. I ran Raybestos for the last 10 years and 180k miles and never had them warp.

 

So the dealer called you and told you that the rotors were "warped". Proves my point. Folks call it warped. That is the general term for uneven brake surfaces that cause pulsating brakes.

 

What flavor MM? I spent my first 8 years as a mechanic. 2 years onboard SSN-715. Many years later I’m still an Engineer

 

My 2017 TRD Pro had the rotors warp at around 17,000 miles. I have just replaced the rotors and pads when the drivers side went metal to metal at 26,000 miles. The drivers side was metal to metal but the passenger side probably had another 10,000 miles on them. So with the poor longevity on the pads, warped rotors and one side out of balance I'm giving Toyota an F on their brake design and quality! I installed the Powerstop rotors and pads (heavy duty towing) and but I'm not holding out much hope these will be better than stock as I see these rotors are made in china. I followed the brake in procedure and the pedal has a very soft feel to it. Stopping power is no better than stock. I'll update this as I get some miles on them.

 

Conventional MM for 20 years, Got tired of turning wrenches and became a Cop for another 15 years.

 

My Mechanic tells me I'll see a hundred thousand miles or so out of my stock brakes on my 2010 DC, it has 83,000 now. "IF" Toyota hasn't allowed it's bean counters control over brake quality, I'll buy OEM when the time comes.... to be continued

 

I love turning wrenches, but on my time only now. 2 more years until retirement for me.

 

This thread goes back a ways and it seems like you all were just bickering back and forth but nobody came up with a solution ha! So lets start over or maybe someone can help me with my problem. I've got about 4,000 miles on my 2016 Pro post 2" ready lift and new Ridge Grapplers. I had some shaking under braking before but knew i needed new front pads so I changed them last weekend. The shaking is getting worse. Would appreciate the best way to problem solve this before I hand it off to my mechanic. Trying to prevent that as I do a little shade tree mechanic stuff myself. Thanks in advance!

 

pardon me if this is repetitive i have not gone back through the thread...how many miles do you have on the rotors? guessing a few if a 2016, if they have never been machined or replaced its probably time. they will wear unevenly and also as your pads break down they can actually adhere to the rotor, both will cause them to pulse. my 2010 oem warped at 18k, the dealer turned them after i threw a fit, they were bad again at 40k, power stops on there untill i sold it with 179k no more problems. at 52k on my 2018 now and they are bad, getting ready to replace them soon. could be something else but i would start here...spend a few extra $$ and get something slotted and ported like power stops and they should last a lot longer than oem especially if you drive like a dunce like me.

 

Ok, yeah i may just do that first. I'll look at the service records prior to me owning. I'm 2nd owner w/ 40K miles on first owner and now 40K under my belt. its entirely possible that they have never been replaced. When i changed the front pads last weekend they definitely looked old. Should i replace the calipers too? I was wondering if a piston is sticking. They were a bitch to spread since i dont have normal mechanic tools. Just used good old fashioned muscle to get them to spread to get the old pads out.

 

I personally would just stick w the rotors for now. Kind of makes sense that it would get worse when you put fresh pads on it since the previous pads probably wore in a way that went along w the warp in the rotors. Then when you put the new pads on which were thicker and flatter it really made it worse.

 

Easy DIY job to replace rotors? OEM or aftermarket recommendation. I think you mentioned power stops.

 

Yeah pretty straightforward in my opinion. I’ve used a lot of Hawk brand in the past on other trucks I’ve owned and have always liked them.

 

calipers are most likely fine, they are not really a "wearable" part, they do fail occasionally but doubt that is the problem.

 

My 08 rotors replaced With OEM rotors and pads, at 40k, again at 80k same problem, bite the bullet and gotten the power stop rotors cryogenic ones with HD truck Hawk pads all four corners. All from tire rack, I just hit 200k with no problems at all.