Roadmaster Active suspension review

Not really as far as reliability and such but to be honest I rather have the +2 and crank my RAS more, but I don't have as much weight consistently in the back as you. I was going to go with +1 but they don't work with RAS. Found out the hard way and just happened to have the +3 on hand. I'll probably just keep this setup a while until I upgrade the leaf packs to Deaver and drop the CB Shackles and keep the RAS.

 

Your results will dictate my rear suspension plans too.

 

You've actually hit exactly where I think I may want to end up. Deaver springs and perhaps the RAS. More research to do...

 

Ya I think what I'll go with is a 1 inch Deaver spring lift with the ras cranked to at least an inch. I want at least a 2 inch in the back, more I don't mind but as it is now when I'm fully loaded with 6 people and all gear in the back, pretty much max payload, I don't like that the springs come really close to fully touching the overload springs.

 

Whats the purpose of doing deavers and RAS? Deavers are thicker and more progressive, aren’t you giving up the flex with the ras

 

The RAS just adds spring strength/payload under load, while reducing axle wrap and wheel hop. I have Dobinsons instead of deavers, which gives me about 2” of rear lift with the RAS HD adding maybe 1/2”(lowest setting/smaller spacing disk). I wish the truck came this way.
Slightly stiffer rear spring under load, yes, but I love it that way. It’s a head scratcher but it performs better unloaded and loaded.

 

Got em on yesterday morning. Very easy to install. Immediately while pulling out of my driveway I noticed how much firmer my rear end is. I went from CB+2s and airbags with cradles to stock Pro rear end (with OEM shackles) to now stock Pro rear with RAS. Here are my brief impressions of each setup:

Pro suspension, CB+2s, airbags with cradles: while unloaded I felt this was floaty and bouncy. Bumps and potholes and concrete highway seams are slightly exaggerated. You have to keep a minimum 5psi to protect the bags. I always felt the frame of the truck would bounce up off the bags when going over bumps or obstacles. So I removed it all and went back to…

Pro suspension w/ OEM shackles and Durobumps: back to the nice, soft rear end I knew and loved. Ultimate articulation. No more bounce. The downside is that it leans more into turns, feels generally floaty, and it’ll squat with only 500lb in the bed . It’s the price you pay for the off-roading capability of the OEM Pro setup. I absolutely hate squatting. So I ordered some RAS.

OEM Pro setup w/ RAS: I installed the RAS using the larger black spacer. The rear end is about the same height as the CB+2s with airbags/cradles. It feels much less floaty and bouncy. I lean less into turns. I haven’t loaded up the bed or towed yet, but I really like it so far. I think when empty I should dial the RAS back to the white spacer. I went off-roading with it and didn’t get as much articulation. It still handled great. No bouncing up off the airbags. I really think dialing it back will be *perfect* until I have to tow. It’s so easy to change it up how you have it dialed, too. Just put the back of your truck on jackstands, and hang the rear end in the air with your jack under the pumpkin with the slightest amount of pressure. The install manual says to just raise the rear end 1/2” at the most. Then adjust your cap nut till the gaps in the spring coils are where you want them. I anticipate that dialing it back to the thinner white spacer will lower my rear end 1/2” and allow the suspension to flex a bit more. The pro suspension with RAS is my favorite setup so far.

The bolt heads and nuts are different sizes than the install manual said they would be. The cap nut is 14mm as stated, but the lock nuts on the long brass threaded bolt are 24mm, and the nut and bolt that mount under the leafs in front of the axle are 19mm.

Overall, this feels great so far. I’ll post a more detailed write up in my build thread after some more time with it.

 

Another positive review for RAS - installed it in about an hour total with a buddy. Cant believe the enhanced ride unloaded, let alone loaded. First trip with about 800lbs in the bed and minimal squat. Could not be happier investment.

Before:


After:


I ended up with about 1.25" initially, but have not remeasured after a few days of driving.

If you're on the fence, you should jump. Really cannot say enough about enhanced ride quality.

 

Diggin the cloth window cover, how much that run you lol

 

lol should have expected some ball busting on that…..

$21 from Amazon. So far has actually worked better than any interior stick on ones. I just need to tint all the windows though.

Qualizzi XL/Car Windows Sun Shades for SUVs up to 19-21in x 42-46in. Car Window Screens for Camping. Mesh Shade Elasticized Breathable. Covers Fully (2Pck)

$17 XL/Car Window Shades for SUVs (10 Sizes) - Breathable Stretchy Mesh Screens for Baby, Sun, Heat, Bug & Privacy Protection, Ideal for Camping Adventures, 2-Pack by Qualizzi

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HYXZYMN

 

Did you go with the SD or HD version? Thank you.

 

Does this still allow for articulation at low speeds when off road?

 

If you are doing hard-core jeep style offroading like @Cruzer you probably don't want these but anything short of that I don't think it will be a hindrance. I do everything except black diamond with my ras and no articulation issues.

 

I just installed installed my RAS last night and noticed a little vibration at take off. It only raised my rear end about an 1.25". Does it settle at all? I'm considering a bearing drop kit but they may be too much in the other direction. Maybe just a few washers would be better? Anyone experience this?

 

I have not experienced this, and I don't have a carrier bearing drop or any shims. Mine settled a bit, but still up about 1-1/8" so close to where you're at. Sorry not much help but thought I'd respond!

 

Yes you need a carrier bearing drop. Tundra's can be picky when lifting the rear at all. I needed to drop mine when installing RAS at 1 inch lift.

 

I'm thinking about purchasing this setup, however I don't want ANY lift in the rear. I already have a slight rake with CB +3's. Can I set these to no lift and to only help reduce sag when my TT is hooked up?

 

nope, now how it is designed and works. You could drop to a smaller shackle and use it, but expect .5 to 1 inch lift with RAS at white disk setting

 

Have my RAS set with black spacer 1.25 lift had a slight vibration, added a .5 spacer carrier bearing,
Vibration gone

 

what spacer did you use?

 

Had some scrap steel and little grinding on the belt sander

 

that’s what I’m thinking. Thanks for the help.

 

No vibration here. I installed a carrier bearing drop with my CB+2s, but I removed those and went back to stock shackles (kept the CB bushings). The RAS adds an inch or so, so I left the carrier bearing drop in there. It’s great. No complaints.

 

What size shims and how many on each side?

 

Any reason going back to stock? Does it feel noticeable with stock shackles vs CB with ras?

 

RAS adds lift, too, so I went back to stock shackles when I installed it and kept about the same height.

 

heh.

 

I added the bearing spacer and the vibration is gone. Good to go now. Hooked up my TT just to move it around to winterize it and had no sag.

 

This thread convinced me to get the RAS.

Building out a stock 2021 Toyota Tundra SR with Fox 2.0 and RAS + trd swaybar.

Will be hauling a GFC, decked, and a bunch of surf gear and shite ~600lbs around the west eventually Baja. Will report back.

 

Installed mine and drove it for a week. Very pleased with the ride. It is not stiff or bouncy. Removed the CB+1 shackles and still picked up 1” of lift with gap set just under the 2mm black disc thickness. Lift would have been around 1.5” over stock height using stock shackles.

Also kept on the rear sway bar since there was no conflicts there. No driveline vibrations noticed so far.