Roadmaster Active suspension review

I have a retractable TCUSA bed cover, a Plano trunk full of tools, shovel & axe, and a 2nd battery in the bed. My static load is around 300lb all in.

I have to think that the daystar cradles account for some of my problem. If you off-road at all, you need them. They install where your bump stop would on top of the leafs and allow the air bag to decouple from the leafs, which is EXTREMELY NECESSARY if you are fully articulating your suspension in off-road situations. Otherwise you could very easily tear the airbags apart.

The cradles also reduce the space between the leafs and the frame by at least an inch. I wonder if that reduced space was part of my issue...
They were great at reducing squat and the poor handling that comes with it when I was loaded down, but just annoyingly bouncy when unloaded (meaning, when I'm down to my static 300lb load).

You can't dump them on the trail. Unless you mean remove them. The air bags need at least 5psi in them at all times. Otherwise, your suspension could fold and tear the rubber at full compression. Additionally, if you off-road, you need to use Daystar cradles with them to keep from tearing them apart at full droop. They reduce the ability of each side to fully compress due to both of these factors. I liked them when loaded down, but hated the feel with only 300lb in the bed. And I could never find a PSI where my back end wasn't noticeably bouncier. Probably partially due to the cradles, but if you do any off-roading, you have to run the cradles, too.

 

I’ve never had air bags but this post seems completely backwards. RAS is not static, it’s progressive, although I think I understand what you mean in that it’s largely set and forget. Depending on how you set it, it’s hardly noticeable during unloaded driving unless you hit bumps or hard turns, or small jumps for that matter. In those cases you’re right, the RAS springs always kick in but that’s when you want them working.

Maybe you’re talking about if you have cradles and a lift so the air bags are not making contact when aired down?

A better question might be how many have disliked the RAS and removed it after install vs how many have removed airbags. I’ve read of many, many people who have removed air bags and known people in person who have, and maybe one ever who removed RAS.

 

Would love to hear your comparison review after some time with RAS. Your experience matches everything else I’ve heard.

 

Not really as far as reliability and such but to be honest I rather have the +2 and crank my RAS more, but I don't have as much weight consistently in the back as you. I was going to go with +1 but they don't work with RAS. Found out the hard way and just happened to have the +3 on hand. I'll probably just keep this setup a while until I upgrade the leaf packs to Deaver and drop the CB Shackles and keep the RAS.

 

Your results will dictate my rear suspension plans too.

 

You've actually hit exactly where I think I may want to end up. Deaver springs and perhaps the RAS. More research to do...

 

Ya I think what I'll go with is a 1 inch Deaver spring lift with the ras cranked to at least an inch. I want at least a 2 inch in the back, more I don't mind but as it is now when I'm fully loaded with 6 people and all gear in the back, pretty much max payload, I don't like that the springs come really close to fully touching the overload springs.

 

Whats the purpose of doing deavers and RAS? Deavers are thicker and more progressive, aren’t you giving up the flex with the ras

 

The RAS just adds spring strength/payload under load, while reducing axle wrap and wheel hop. I have Dobinsons instead of deavers, which gives me about 2” of rear lift with the RAS HD adding maybe 1/2”(lowest setting/smaller spacing disk). I wish the truck came this way.
Slightly stiffer rear spring under load, yes, but I love it that way. It’s a head scratcher but it performs better unloaded and loaded.

 

Got em on yesterday morning. Very easy to install. Immediately while pulling out of my driveway I noticed how much firmer my rear end is. I went from CB+2s and airbags with cradles to stock Pro rear end (with OEM shackles) to now stock Pro rear with RAS. Here are my brief impressions of each setup:

Pro suspension, CB+2s, airbags with cradles: while unloaded I felt this was floaty and bouncy. Bumps and potholes and concrete highway seams are slightly exaggerated. You have to keep a minimum 5psi to protect the bags. I always felt the frame of the truck would bounce up off the bags when going over bumps or obstacles. So I removed it all and went back to…

Pro suspension w/ OEM shackles and Durobumps: back to the nice, soft rear end I knew and loved. Ultimate articulation. No more bounce. The downside is that it leans more into turns, feels generally floaty, and it’ll squat with only 500lb in the bed . It’s the price you pay for the off-roading capability of the OEM Pro setup. I absolutely hate squatting. So I ordered some RAS.

OEM Pro setup w/ RAS: I installed the RAS using the larger black spacer. The rear end is about the same height as the CB+2s with airbags/cradles. It feels much less floaty and bouncy. I lean less into turns. I haven’t loaded up the bed or towed yet, but I really like it so far. I think when empty I should dial the RAS back to the white spacer. I went off-roading with it and didn’t get as much articulation. It still handled great. No bouncing up off the airbags. I really think dialing it back will be *perfect* until I have to tow. It’s so easy to change it up how you have it dialed, too. Just put the back of your truck on jackstands, and hang the rear end in the air with your jack under the pumpkin with the slightest amount of pressure. The install manual says to just raise the rear end 1/2” at the most. Then adjust your cap nut till the gaps in the spring coils are where you want them. I anticipate that dialing it back to the thinner white spacer will lower my rear end 1/2” and allow the suspension to flex a bit more. The pro suspension with RAS is my favorite setup so far.

The bolt heads and nuts are different sizes than the install manual said they would be. The cap nut is 14mm as stated, but the lock nuts on the long brass threaded bolt are 24mm, and the nut and bolt that mount under the leafs in front of the axle are 19mm.

Overall, this feels great so far. I’ll post a more detailed write up in my build thread after some more time with it.

 

Another positive review for RAS - installed it in about an hour total with a buddy. Cant believe the enhanced ride unloaded, let alone loaded. First trip with about 800lbs in the bed and minimal squat. Could not be happier investment.

Before:


After:


I ended up with about 1.25" initially, but have not remeasured after a few days of driving.

If you're on the fence, you should jump. Really cannot say enough about enhanced ride quality.

 

Diggin the cloth window cover, how much that run you lol

 

lol should have expected some ball busting on that…..

$21 from Amazon. So far has actually worked better than any interior stick on ones. I just need to tint all the windows though.

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I’ll add to this thread by saying that of all the accessories out there to increase the rear suspensions performance while hauling loads or towing heavy with half tons the RAS system is the best. Towed my camper last week into the mountains and the RAS performed so well. What I like best is the fact that the ride when unloaded is awesome. If you are on the fence about buying this system…..do it!

 

Did you go with the SD or HD version? Thank you.

 

HD

 

Does this still allow for articulation at low speeds when off road?

 

If you are doing hard-core jeep style offroading like @Cruzer you probably don't want these but anything short of that I don't think it will be a hindrance. I do everything except black diamond with my ras and no articulation issues.

 

I just installed installed my RAS last night and noticed a little vibration at take off. It only raised my rear end about an 1.25". Does it settle at all? I'm considering a bearing drop kit but they may be too much in the other direction. Maybe just a few washers would be better? Anyone experience this?

 

I have not experienced this, and I don't have a carrier bearing drop or any shims. Mine settled a bit, but still up about 1-1/8" so close to where you're at. Sorry not much help but thought I'd respond!

 

Yes you need a carrier bearing drop. Tundra's can be picky when lifting the rear at all. I needed to drop mine when installing RAS at 1 inch lift.

 

I'm thinking about purchasing this setup, however I don't want ANY lift in the rear. I already have a slight rake with CB +3's. Can I set these to no lift and to only help reduce sag when my TT is hooked up?

 

nope, now how it is designed and works. You could drop to a smaller shackle and use it, but expect .5 to 1 inch lift with RAS at white disk setting

 

Have my RAS set with black spacer 1.25 lift had a slight vibration, added a .5 spacer carrier bearing,
Vibration gone

 

what spacer did you use?

 

Had some scrap steel and little grinding on the belt sander

 

that’s what I’m thinking. Thanks for the help.

 

No vibration here. I installed a carrier bearing drop with my CB+2s, but I removed those and went back to stock shackles (kept the CB bushings). The RAS adds an inch or so, so I left the carrier bearing drop in there. It’s great. No complaints.

 

What size shims and how many on each side?

 

Any reason going back to stock? Does it feel noticeable with stock shackles vs CB with ras?