Rhino Exhaust long tube headers from Australia - good idea?

Yes. The first tundra I tested on a Dyno was my 03. You gain 20hp and 20tq to the rear wheels over stock with long tubes and a proper single exhaust. Add 10hp and 10tq if you go duals.

 

I read somewhere on the forum that you plan on making long tubes for 1st gens available again. Can you confirm this, along with estimated time of availability and price. Thank you.

 

The order is placed. My guy is saying a few weeks. But I’m quoting 3-9 months. He sometimes takes a while. 5 sets ordered. 3 sets sold. 2 available. 760-877-4234

 

@dirtydeeds yesterday when we spoke I forgot to ask you if ceramic coating these was an option.

 

I can do it. My first job back in 1994 was doing ceramic coating. But with it being so expensive it might make more sense to do it locally. Just reduce the chance of them scratching.

 

Hey Keith, What do you mean by “haven’t ran the after”

 

That video is of the truck bone stock. Since then I’ve installed long tube headers and a full race exhaust, but haven’t put it back on the Dyno since then to see the gains.

it’s significantly faster than without the headers. And non vvti is good for 30hp and 30 tq with an equal exhaust set up. Vvti will for sure be good for more power than that.

 

... but only above 4k RPM? Or am I misunderstanding how/when vvti works?

 

Are there any gains to non vvti engines with long tubes below 4K rpm’s?

 

The vvti heads flow better. And the camshaft profiles are variable which takes advantage of scavenging better. And the intake manifold does the same. The gains are across the board. The curve is the same as stock, only more.

That’s also how the Non-vvti 4.7 acts. And that’s how the 5.7 acts. The 5.7 has the most gains with headers. Non vvti 2uz the least. With vvti2uz right in the middle.

ti summarize, gains are across the board. Not just above a certain rpm.

 

Yes. The gains are at every rpm.

 

Fair. i welcome the correction. you certainly have more experience in this arena then myself.

Im interested. Cash in hand but wont make a purchase until product is ready for shipping. If i miss out, i miss out. Thanks.

What kind of changes did u experience in MPG with the added header and exhaust?

 

Best my 4.7 non vvti pre runner has got is 17mpg on average. 85mph average. San Diego to Myrtle beach. For reference it’s the truck in the video:

https://youtu.be/Gio5pKalrx4

 

thats a cool truck. i can def appreciate the hard work that went into building a 1st gen to perform in desert race applications. Think its safe to say that the majority of 1st gen owners here are using their trucks for fire roads, camping, fishing, easy to moderate trails and towing which could lead to some potential buyers to see this header as overkill for their set-up, imo... do u have any pictures or video that include the dyno charts?

 

@dirtydeeds what would it take to get a set of 180* headers?

 

An update: these guys finally got back to me, it looks like they have fit them onto some LHD vehicles but who knows if they were Sequoia/Tundra. My guess is UAE, probably Land Cruiser, US who knows. I will inquire further if I can.

 

Well, looks like Rhino is off the table. After months of waiting lol.

 

Thank you for following up for us.

 

Our first batch of 5 is almost done.

the second batch of 5 has 3 sets sold already.

 

Care to give me a rundown on what you had to do to use the 00-04 headers? I'm an excellent mechanic, good fabricator. I've got resources but no money for a name brand set of headers yet. Hell even if there is a youtube link, that'd be great. I'm assuming it involves blocking off the injection ports for the exhaust.

 

Used a Hewitt SAIS bypass. You can see how I plugged the ports in this thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-00-04-headers-onto-05-06-motor.97796/

I outline in the thread that you can just use the Dirty Deeds headers and Hewitt SAIS bypass without doing what I did to the heads.

 

Both DD AND the Tri y are great options. But i personally spoke w Dirty Deeds and dude gave me genuine impression he has zero incentive to deceive tundy community.

As a Ex mechanic and having owned several fast cars, and difference is going to be negligible between two, sure the tri y is a great design and you get a nice low end tq bump, but with my older 2002, im looking for top end flow gains . When im mashing the go pedal you are above 4k after the first few seconds (cough,) in first, id rather have the better top-end or highway pull then the low down tq increase ( not hating, tri-y is still a great header) ...but for a V8 our motors need to wind up to make power. They are not ohv off idle monsters ( thats what gears our for) .

Any LTH is a big job and should be given a lot of thought. And if you are not fabing the header back yourself its a serious investment. I know of two blokes who have both seem 25-30whp gains with DD HEADERS. But, they are not active on forums much.

You will feel 25-30Whp gains. And when im booting my truck its between whatever its unimpressive redline is and atleast 4k.

Both headers are sick for their own strongpoints...just my 02 cents.

 

Realistically how hard are they to put on? Pix show what appears to be an all day deal and they don’t look like they fit in the hole you gotta work with. You gotta pull motor mounts off to get them in?

 

You can do it without pulling motor mounts, I’ve heard. But I’ve always pulled them, it’s way easier.

it’s an 8-10 hour job.

 

Ey you might have to loosen the trans, take off wheels and remove splash guards. I mean, if you are familiar with exhaust work on 20 year old trucks. Then you have to extend downstream O2 wiring. Re'wrap , made tidy. Then depending upon luck you will have to play with downstream 02 sensor placement and ( just imo) move primary O2 to accommodate for decrease in flow due to the system having a larger diameter exit/collector.
Also, i hear the drivers side is tight.

Hey, i almost guarantee i could knock it out in 1-2 days solo. But. Im smart enough to know it will take me four as to not lose my mind, this is a non - oem part that requires some mechanical skills to pull off, but two buddies, some pb blaster, torch, soldering iron, wire/wrap.. its not as bad as doing the HG's.

Then call aaa , take it to local exhaust garage and finish the system. You will need to pull off both stock cats , take them, and change flanges for proper fitment. For example i will be adding V-bands to one end with collector reduced down to 2.5" on both cats. Its not like bolting up a big name cat back over the weekend, but once there on......you are one of the few...the proud...the I installed my own LTH on first gen club. I would say its up there w full suspension refresh just more O2 manipulation involved.

The tune should not really change, toyota made the tune fat enough that it wont lean out in a bad way if properly done. But these things look like they can flow.

 

Keith is a good dude

I tend to post my dyno sheet on threads about headers to help give an example of what header changes can make on these engines. DD has posted non-VVTI dyno numbers. I don't post my dyno to say my setup is any better or superior to 4-1 options. It's informational. You will see better power numbers with a 4-1 vs my tri-y.

Wrote this in another thread but it related to your post. So I'll put it here for the sake of clarity to others:

It (my current mod setup) brings a lot of oomph to where the truck is normally driven. Since it's an automatic it spends most of its life below 4,000RPM. You can see from my dyno there's no point in ringing my truck out to redline, except to hear the Borla scream.

Dynos have proven time and time again that 4-1 long tubes and larger diameter primary tubes typically yield a lot more top end, and in some cases better bottom end, compared to the tri-Y style.

My parts decision was based on typical driving habits and improving low end torque. I guesstimated that the chosen smaller primary tube, and collector type on a stock flowing head and stock displacement would work for what I wanted. My dyno showed a big improvement right where I wanted it.

This doesn't mean that the DD/JBA will sacrifice tons of bottom end torque it in favor of top end horse power. At the time of my purchase I didn't have a dyno graph of the DD/JBA on a VVTI motor to compare it to.

Given a true apples to apples comparison I'm sure if there were any power trade-off of the DD vs tri-Y it would be well worth the difference in low end vs top end. At any rate either header design will out-perform the OEM cast manifold by miles.

At any rate, Keith with DD wouldn't support a product for our vehicles if it weren't worthwhile. I spoke with him quite a bit before ultimately purchasing from another supplier. Nothing against Keith or DD, I had a ticking clock. Stan was retiring and he was the only one offering tri-Y style headers for our engine at the time. I ordered the last set of Stan's headers before he retired.

Bottom line is, many many members of this forum and others have purchased headers and exhaust systems from DD. And many more continue to do so. They all have been satisfied with their purchase and power. Keith chose to back the 4-1 style, and he certainly had his reasons.

 

Is that with an X pipe?
I've got the JBA long tubes going to TRD catback (single in/dual out muffler). I'm looking to refresh the exhaust soonish, to maximize the power. I was thinking 2.5" pipes, x pipe, dual mufflers. I still have not decided which mufflers I want.

 

I read for hours, and watched at least an hour or two worth of videos when i was thinking about exhaust for the 2UZ. I concluded the new Borla seems to sound best, have minimal to no drone, and makes power. Its a newer muffler they've had out about 2-3 years maybe? Doing two of those would likely have rumble when you step on the skinny pedal but not have you drowning in noise at cruising speeds.

 

Do you remember what the new Borla is called? I was looking at two 18" Flowmaster Flow FX mufflers last night. I just know I want a flow through design, but I'd prefer it to be a hybrid with a box, vs a flow through pipe style, like glasspack.

 

There's a Borla 'cat-back' bolt in system that replaces the factory exhaust from the y-pipe back. If my memory is correct it's only single exit 2.25" pipe.

https://www.borla.com/products/toyota-tundra-cat-back-exhaust-system-14854

I had a shop put in a full header back single exit exhaust using 2.5" Borla muffler. Borla ProXS part number 40351 (2.5"ID in/out). And found the exhaust sounded like a Coyote Mustang. So I added a Borla part number 400938 resonator. Happier with the tone with the resonator installed.