Replacing LBJ's front shocks/coil overs

Easy fix. The reason I didn’t have the problem yesterday is because when I was confused, and the tie rod was at the wrong angle, and I realized I just had to rotate the tie rod end.

I did that, and then was able to snug the tie rod end by gently, pushing up with the hydraulic jack

 

But something doesn’t look right @shifty`

When I taught down that castle nut, the hole seems to be very high on the stud

I don’t believe there was a washer or anything there

edited to add that one I was waiting I was putting the top nut of the swaybar connector and it appears to be stripped. I can’t even get it off.

but the old top shock nuts are the same size so I’m just gonna snug it down to make it a lock nut

i’m thinking at this point the best thing to do is let the shop replace those swaybar connectors tomorrow when they do the alignment

 

That's not abnormal. As long as the cotter engages between two posts on the crown with 3-4mm of inteference/grab, it serves its purpose. It's not expected that the cotter is going to nestle in perfectly to the valley. The sole purpose of the cotter is to prevent the castle nut from spinning, do you feel it will stop the bolt from spinning with the level of engagement it has as-is?

 

@shifty`

I may just pick up those swaybar links, and at least replace this bad one on the passenger side today.

it appears on that cheap replacement that was used before. It has one of those self locking nuts and I believe they’re only supposed to be used once. Even trying to lock it with the old nut from the top of the shocks, it seemed to just slide down and never really locked like it should. it should’ve locked within a quarter, turn or so once they bumped up against each other,

 

If you were closer, I'd give you my take-off OEM links to swap em out. I'm not sure which brands are worth a damn for aftermarket swaybar links. @Jack McCarthy says the Moog links are good in this thread, But something looks very, very wrong to me about how that top washer sits on the bushing with your Moog links. @Jack McCarthy do your Moog links look similar on top?

What's the story on your tie rod ends (TRE)? Are those new, old, sticking with them? They look perfectly fine to my eyes.

 

I replaced the driver’s side. But it probably would have been OK if I hadn’t messed up that castle nut But that’s one thing I won’t have to worry about and I can replace the other side one day down the road


Those links aren’t but about $50 locally I’m just gonna do that for peace of mind on my trip. Since the passenger side was stripped.

But I’ll also go OEM on down the road unless the ones I get today turn out to be much better than what I had

 

Honestly SuspensionMaxx also makes a great links, OEM length and OEM + 1” (‘extended’)

 

as soon as I looked them up you could immediately tell the difference. But I’ve got to go with something quick because I’m leaving Tuesday morning. At least they’re only about 50 bucks

but I’ll keep those in mind for the future


I’m learning to start bookmarking things because I can’t find them through searching the forum. But where was that post you made about alignment? Mine is a 1 inch lift all the way around is it just standard or do I need give the shop different settings?

 

All finished except for alignment. And replacing those swaybar links. I would wait, but that one is stripped and I don’t trust it
Also retorqued the driver side LBJ’s because of those conflicting Toyota specifications.

what an amazing ride. I have confidence driving my tundra again.

 

1” lift or leas wirh OEM or OEM-equivalent wheels? Standard alignment, OEM specs. You haven’t lifted enough to warrant something more IMHO and lack of wide wheels, I just don’t see the point in a custom alignment.

All the super-critical info is in the “sticky thread” section at the top of the forum. The “so you wanna buy a 1st gen” links out to tons of stuff and is decently organized, I think. That’s got lifted alignment specs in it.

Awesome, you got a chance to drive it? I’m sure it probably feels night and day.

 

Under certain conditions of turning the steering wheel with the wheel off, that compression of the link bushings is normal and should not deform when the wheel is back on, planted on the ground and steering is straight.

 

I mean the washer - is the washer on top of yours so small it can’t even hold the bushing in place properly?

 

I'll disagree here. I'm stock height and run custom specs. It makes a night and day difference in how the truck drives.

-0.3° camber (-0.5° if you tend to corner fast or live around twisty roads).
2.6-2.8° caster
.05-.08° toe in per side (.10-.15° total toe)

Lifted or stock. If the 2°+ isn't achievable, as much caster as possible.

 

Night and day is not an overstatement. Now feels extremely stable of course I was replacing the original shocks

I always loved the ride straight from the factory and was worried about these stiffer shocks, but I love it even better than factory.

 

when you say night and day, what about it in particular? Handle better, turn better???

 

Both.

Tracks straighter, on the freeway the steering wheel is not as light and feels more stable. Less prone to wandering and/or feeling vague.

Better feedback in turns and plants better in the corner.


The specs are nothing extreme. I've worked on show/vip/bagged cars with anywhere from 5-20° of camber for example. Most track cars fall in the 2-4° camber range. Drift cars 3-7° depending on setup.

 

Doesn’t look like anyone answered, so here goes.

these


Are washers that act as spacers for these



unscrew them, add two washers and screw them back in. Keep you from over extending the shock and blowing out the seals. Like my first set.

 

Thanks. Absolutely nothing at all came with the kit to explain.

I will add them but I don’t do off-road so hopefully that won’t be an issue anyway

 

any effect on tire wear?

 

I was getting outside edge tire wear at -0.1° and -0.3° camber. Now I'm at -0.5° and I'll keep and eye on it. So far so good.

Granted, I work at an alignment shop so I can play around on my vehicles alignment.

 

Speaking of which, I never did buy my new stops.

How much thread do the OEM have up in there? Are we talking half inch extra? Full inch? More than an inch? I’ve never had mine off, but they’re in great shape. Wondering if I could get away with a 1.5” spacer or if someone sells a male-female riser kit.

 

@shifty`

I didn’t want to start a new thread on this, but I tried to catch a few pictures when I was working to see if anything obvious needs attention.

There is nothing dripping on the ground when I park, but there is a very slow power steering leak. From the pictures, I saw some seepage in a few places, but some of that could also be old


the shop told me whatever (dont recall exactly) needed replacing re: power steering, were not easy to get to but that I could put it off for a while

also, you mentioned doing a quick visual on my timing belt before I went on my trip. I cannot find your post, and I searched for it several ways. I know you said it wouldn’t take but a few minutes and just one socket if I’m not mistaken,

 

I’ll need to get to a bigger screen tomorrow.

Timing belt: 10 mm socket. Loosen fasteners for whichever timing cover is easiest to get to for you. Pull it back enough to inspect the belt for cracks and defects. Absence of cracks is no guarantee it won’t snap.

 

Replacing the swaybar links now. The bottom one with the black nuts is the new one. May not be quite OEM, but leaps and bounds above the cheap toys that were on it.

The shaft, the caps, the nuts, the bushings, all definitely more heavy duty. $30 each so 60 for both isn’t bad, since I had to have them in a rush

 

Don't crank the new ones down 'til they mushroom. Same as your rear shocks.

Looking back at the pics, I don't think you have a rack leak. I think you have valve cover leaks, and/or possibly a leak at the half-moon plugs, and it's dribbling down the back of the block onto mid-rack (maybe covers or half-moon plugs), and the driver side bellows (likely driver valve cover).

If you opt to wipe up the mess on your rack, inspect the bellows (rubber accordion things) on your rack for any rips or tears, I don't think you'll find any, but those and your CV axle boots are a 'regular check' item to inspect for tears (preventative maint'ce).

Why do I say the oil is coming from above? If it was coming from the rack, you likely wouldn't see oil slick on top:

​

 

Thanks but now I’m coming down to the wire I have a problem with just one of those swaybar links. It is spinning, and no matter what I do it keeps spinning it the bottom one

 

Doesn't take an Allen key in the shaft to hold it?

 

Thank you! I called myself examining them before I started, but I did not have this problem on the other side,

 

i’m just now reading this, but I did notice that the passenger side had two holes where it look like it been rubbing on the inside.