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Replacement Shocks/Strut Recommendations/Suggestions/Opinions

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by cadillacjoe, Sep 2, 2025 at 6:16 AM.

  1. Sep 2, 2025 at 6:16 AM
    #1
    cadillacjoe

    cadillacjoe [OP] New Member

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    Looking to replace all shocks on 2002 Tundra SR5 Access Cab 2WD 4.7L with 134K original miles. This truck is only going to be used for suburbs/highway driving with no towing or hauling involved.

    Wanting opinions on whether to do entire front assembly (spring/shock) or just do front shocks only along with back shocks?

    Also on whether to go aftermarket or OEM. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

    And Yes original front LBJ's will be replaced while off the ground with OEM replacements since you guys have me terrified of failure, even no there is no signs of defects.
     
  2. Sep 2, 2025 at 6:21 AM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` Earth acid cleanses me, cleanses me clean

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    Bilstein 4600, front and rear are as close to stock as you're going to get, and are as close as you can get to the factory shocks that came on the TRD packaged trucks.

    While you can re-use the OEM springs/isolators/tophats if you don't live in rust belt and they're in good shape, I would opt to pick up the [likely sagging by this age] nose a bit, in a way that won't cause substantial geometry change, and also improve handling, by buying Old Man Emu 2883 springs, and the appropriate isolator and tophat to pair them into the Bilstein 4600 strut. If you do make the wise decision to go with OME 2883 springs, that'll be these isolators (here's why), and just to refresh everything all at once, buy these tophats.

    Doing this, you shouldn't need to update again for another 100k miles.
     
  3. Sep 2, 2025 at 9:08 AM
    #3
    komodo1942

    komodo1942 New Member

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    Just put all 4 new Bilstein 4600s on mine. I'd recommend those and to reuse the front spring/strut housing assembly. The rubber bump pad on my front top hat was a little dry but still in good shape. I wiped it down with silicone spray on a rag.

    Feels OEM-like to me. At 250k miles, my original Toyota KYBs had hydraulic oil oozed out and dust buildup from the oil but still had tension while compressing the rod, but remained completely compressed and didn't retract so they were shot.

    The ride quality surprisingly didn't change much so I would consider it a critical fix, but I do notice less suspension rebound when driving over slightly bumpy roads going 40-60mph-ish. My tire wear was still normal with the old ones. The truck feels like it sits about an inch higher too now which is nice.

    Make sure you have a full set of metric combination wrenches (preferably ratcheting) and a mini pair and regular sized pair of good vise grips with fresh and sharp jaws. Spring compressors too for the fronts. I was able to use autozone rental spring compressors but you have to unscrew them and put the jaws into the spring at an angle (they wont fit in between the springs straight in).

    Mark the position of the front struts before you remove them. I just painted a white dot on the top hat showing the outward direction.

    The rears are a pain because you have to tighten the top nut with only about 4 inches of space to fit your hands through the rear wheel wells and in between the frame/body and use both vise grips and a wrench at the same time. But it can be done on the ground with the rear wheels still on.

    If you have trouble removing the top bolt on the OEM rears because the shaft spins as you loosen, you can cut the plastic dust sleeve/shell open with a sharp utility knife and hold the shaft in place with the big pair of vise grips. But installing the Bilsteins will require pinching the top of the shaft with vise grips while tightening the nut.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2025 at 9:21 AM
  4. Sep 2, 2025 at 9:17 AM
    #4
    komodo1942

    komodo1942 New Member

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    Forgot to mention, since your truck has only 134k miles, you should test the rears for compression to see if they are even bad (a little bit of dust/oil haze is okay). You can unbolt the bottom mounting bolt, compress the shock (push it upwards), and see if it retracts on its own. If the rears are okay, your front ones probably are too since they are supported by the spring.

    And although the LBJs are a good idea to replace, just to throw it out there, mine were still good at 250k miles with them only being replaced once at 50k miles for the recall back in 06. I changed them when I did the shocks though. Not trying to tell you to not change them though. $240 is a lot cheaper than risking dying. If I were you, I'd call a Toyota dealer and give them the vin and ask if they have records of the LBJs being replaced for the recall.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2025 at 9:47 AM
  5. Sep 2, 2025 at 9:40 AM
    #5
    cadillacjoe

    cadillacjoe [OP] New Member

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    Thanks, that looks like what I will be getting. I purchased this truck from original owner and it appears to have never left the Carolinas so may be fine with shocks only. Very clean inside and out, just needs to be driven more. Gotta say I'm super impressed with the 4.7 V8 engine. Very peppy and quick.
     

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