Replaced timing belt and now no start.

Yeah, it's always best to remove those when the engine is hot. Best bet is to drill them out.

EZ outs are one of those things where, there's a right way and a wrong way to use them. If you don't use them often, it helps to hit the 'Tube and watch other people use them. Thing is, EZ outs are usually hardened steel, so if you and up snapping one of THOSE off inside, you're pretty much f'd. I did that trying to take off a manifold in an old Civic HB I had bitd. I legitimately thought I'd drilled deep enough and the heat from drilling would've been enough to break the bond the stud had. But ... nope. I think if I'd have just drilled deeper I'd have been good to go. I only went about 1/2" into the bolt. Had I been more like 1" into the bolt, I think I'd have gotten it.

And as this needs to be said ... cover your head with a cardboard template and spark plug tubes with paper while you're drilling so you don't get shavings in your head or cylinders. Make sure you stay on the center of the bolt. Start with the smallest hole possible with a SHARP bit, you can always expand the hole later. The valve cover faseners are relatively soft metal in comparison to other, larger body fasteners, so it should be quick.

I think @txagg ended up snapping a few of his also, IIRC. He may be able to provide more tips. If there's any nub of a shaft left exposed, there are special kits you can get ("stud extraction tools") to potentially pull what's there w/o drilling.

PS - clean your surfaces for FIPG well BEFORE reinstalling the valve covers, do the half-moons, and RTFM for the process on where all the FIPG goes if you haven't already read the post/reply I've got out there with all the part numbers and process. A LOT of the videos on the 'Tube give bad info about how to do the VC gaskets.

 

Yup, and I would use a punch to indent my starting hole location first to help keep the drill bit centered. A set of reversed back out bits is great too. Drill with a small bit first to make your pilot hole and then choose a larger bit to chase it. The larger bit will struggle to drill straight down and will be catching on the sides the whole way. If using a reversed back out bit it may get enough traction to break it loose.

 

Any idea why the passenger side looks clean but drivers side looks like it has been getting hot!

 

My driver's side rear most cylinder (#7??) looked a little hot as well. The rest looked shiny silver and brand new at 214k miles.

 

Can’t add much to what @shifty` said other than….
1 Let drill do the work, slow go
2 Tap magic or equivalent cutting fluid can be your friend while drilling….squirt end of bit slightly as you drill….helps in not getting bit too hot
3 five gal of patience at your local Wally World
4 Shit happens, take a deep breath and tap it out

 

I have yet to see a 2UZ-FE on here where the driver's side head isn't more cooked than the passenger side.

I'm sure there's a reason. Maybe it's because of the oil fill tube holding steam, which causes more varnish in the driver side head when that steam drops and cools the top of the head? Or something with the PCV valve being on the driver valve cover only?

 

PS - BRAKE CLEANER. Do yourself a favor. Buy two cans, one for each side, but go chlorine-free. It'll make quick work of cleaning the flanges under the heads. You need to get that gunk and buildup off. This has clearly been a problem for a while!

It won't hurt to get a little brake cleaner physically splashing into the head, so you don't need to be overly careful on that side. It'll evaporate quickly. You need to take extra-extra time cleaning the mating surfaces thoroughly before you proceed. Same with inside the valve cover, the valley where the gasket rides.

 

That was my thought and I think it was mentioned in the past too.

 

It was my initial suspicion, but I've seen quite afew guys on here with froth built up in their oil fill tube, mostly from the short-trip driving crowd. A lot of moisture makes it up into that oil fill tube if you don't get the engine hot enough, long enough to bust that all steam the way out. Steam cools pretty fast and clings to whatever's in the vicinity.

It may very well be a combo of both, though.

 

Thanks everyone. I do a lot of short trips!

 

If this is the case, you need to make sure you're changing your oil based on months, not miles. Change at least once every 12 months.

 

Now I'm curious. I'm going to be doing my valve cover gaskets soon. I'll post pictures!

 

That's weird, mine looked about the same.

 

Ok I feel better about it. I do change my oil every spring and use mobile 1 full synthetic. Getting a. New pcv valve today

 

I had this problem, and it sucked. The bolts they used are made of veal, and rightfully so with such a low torque value. I did a bunch of different things trying to avoid using the drill. I got a map torch involved multiple times to no avail. Finally went through the trouble to weld a nut on the nub I had and she just twisted off into another smaller nub. Finally I involved the drill and got it done.

 

I alway use a small dab of anti seize on the VC bolts and replace the bolts when the rubber gets hard

 

Look at both cam shafts between cylidners 5 and 7. Significantly more crusty. Passenger side, cyl 2-8, totally uniform all the way across. Totally weird, but it's consistent: Drive side almost always has more buildup, and the only time I haven't seen it are on high-mile trucks where most of the miles are hwy.

EDIT: Specifically, compare between 1/3 compared to here between 5/7, way more varnish. Hell, even the cam caps are darker.

​

 

Yeah, now that you mention it I see it.

 

Good thoughts. The PCV is forward and the filler neck is aft/rearward where most of the folks seem to have that varnish/discoloration. Need to follow @FirstGenVol ‘s PCV replacement post!

 

I will say though, Ironman looking damn awesome for his mileage. That looks like a 100k mile engine to me. Good job.

 

Good and bad news. I retapped the valve cover bolts and got that all installed. I verified TDC putting a stiff wire in the number 1 cylinder and it was on. I found a nick in the wire on the cam sensor so I cut and spliced the wires. I borrowed a 6000 dollar code reader and was getting the code p0340 and 345. After splicing and putting it back in the code went away so I put it all back together. Tried to start it and nothing and the code came back. So I’m thinking it might have fried the sensor or something else. Does anyone know if the sensor is bad if it will not let it turn over whatsoever or would that point toward something else? The sensor is 140 dollars so I hate to just throw a part at it. I’m going to read up on testing a hall sensor. Any other ideas?

 

Cam position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? Was it inside the cam cover, or outside? Sorry I keep asking, but people get these bass-ackwards a lot.

A lot of sensors use shielded wiring, the crankshaft position sensor is one, IIRC. They don't tolerate splicing and will almost assuredly throw codes if you make the mistake of cutting and re-splicing one. I've seen people splice the cam sensors and have it work on earlier-model 1GT, but it was still throwing codes.

I do remember this one post though, where one guy found his was spliced though it worked semi-OK - dunno what year your truck is because you don't have info in your profile like most other users, but I guess if it's an earlier model, it maybe has the old cam pos sensor without the wire restraint?

 

The one that comes out of the driver side timing belt cover that is right next to the water pump. It is an 06 crew cab. 4.7 liter.

 

Bummer. And yep, that's clearly cam position sensor. And you're saying it won't even turn over? Not even if you jumper the starter relay?

And you're positive both coolant temp sensor wires are plugged, not cut, all other connectors on stuff are firmly plugged in, like, you pulled on each one to test it, and you checked the batt cables, and fuses in engine bay?

 

Just tried starting by jumping the starter relay. I also pulled another relay and switching them and still nothing. Also checked power at the 10 amp fuse in the interior fuse box and no power with the key in the on position.

 

Another thing I noticed is a workers buzzing when I put the ignition switch to the on not all the way to cranking.

 

I tried posting a video but it won’t allow me to.

 

Are you seeing any power to the gauges, anything inside?

 

Yes. Power to the inside is fine.

 

I'm confused. You just said power to the inside wasn't working:

Also, what happened when you jumped the starter at the relay socket?