Rear end info

Hey everyone, I have a 2007 SR5 TUNDRA 4X4. It has a 3" suspension lift with 35" tires. About a year ago I had an off road incident with hitting the passenger rear wheel into a huge ditch. I was at a high rate of speed. Not sure how fast but enough to completely snap my FUEL rim in half, deploy my drivers side airbag, shift my rear end and drop my driveline. Pic below is the day after it happened. This is a list of the things I have replaced on it while it sat in my driveway for 3 months.....

1. New drive line.
2. New brake calipers and rotors
3. New Icon leaf springs & rear shocks
4. New bump stops
5. New Rim, and tires
6. New seat belt & airbag
7. Had airbag module reset

I have been driving the truck for a couple of months now on a daily basis. 2 things are happening that leads me to believe damage has gone further than my eyes originally thought. First thing is that the traction control alarm sounds any time I am on a moderately windy road. For instance, I'll need to take a 35mph 90° turn at about 10-15 mph for it not to sound. NOTE: If I take the same turn while in 4WD at 35mph the alarm WILL NOT sound. Second issue that I am only recently beginning to notice is that I am getting a dramatic inside wear on both of my rear tires.
I love this truck so I would be willing to put some work into it (within reason of course). Just want to know everyone's thoughts on this.... New axles, new rear end, or do I need to "throw in the towel"? Let me know. Thanks for reading.

 

That’s some serious damage. Have you been able to confirm your frame was not tweaked? The impact that caused your troubles could have also bent the frame.

 

I didn't really think it was necessary for rear end damage because seems to me like the rear of the frame essentially just bounces on top of the rear end. Not much bonds them together other than 4 U bolts and 2 shocks. I feel like those would break way before it could ever bend the frame. Front end damage would be a way different story. Now I could be very wrong about all of this. It's kind of just what I gathered when rebuilding all of it. Another reason that didn't cross my mind was because all of the brand new parts lined up and went back together fairly easy and it actually drives well, no vibration(other that from the tires) or anything.

 

Slow down...ditches are for drainage!

 

Agree with you that what you say makes sense. When you have looked at all the logical places and found nothing, you look elsewhere, that’s all I am saying.

 

Are your rear tires wearing evenly? Is your rear axle aligned properly relative to the front wheels? I'm just throwing ideas out there, but if the rear axle is misaligned you would see a variance in wheel speed around turns. I believe the traction control alarm is disabled or the variance trigger is increased with 4WD active.. It may be worth checking center front hub to rear on both sides.

ETA** Sorry, overlooked the tire wear comment in your OP.

 

Yes I'd say both tires are wearing fairly evenly, and the wear is on the inside for both tires. As for the rear end being aligned... I didn't know that was even a thing. The way it's designed, leaf springs can only attach to the rear end in a particular place, I don't believe that can be adjusted. Maybe I'm not understanding. Are you talking about each individual rear axle has its own adjustment? I appreciate the feedback.

 

There is a rear-end alignment - it's typically not adjustable. But with the damage you sustained, yours may have been....adjusted.

I know that when I replaced the panhard bars on my 4runner there was quite a bit of adjustability in my rear axle position and I had to take measurements and precautions to ensure it didn't shift. It would have been possibe to move the entire axle forward or back, or to skew it by adjusting only one side too far or back. I think measuring it yourself or going to an alignment shop and stating your concerns and specifically asking for a precise measurement would be prudent.

 

I used to work at a frame shop and ya, frames and axles housings get bent from this type of impact.

A tape measure can be used to check the frame for squareness by forming a big X from like features. It should be within an 1/8" inch when not bending it around things like the exhaust or fuel tank. I suggest you could measure from the springs front perch as it locates the axle. Be symmetrical as possible.

Has anyone followed it down the road and mentioned crab walking?

You might also get it on level flat concrete and throw some jack stands under the center section of the frame and measure to the ground near the end of the frame on both sides.

As for the axle housing, I would bet it bent it adding negative camber and tow-out. These two combined would wear the inside edge.

Take your tape measure and measure the front and back from rim to rim edge at the same height from the ground without deflecting the tape by springs and exhaust. Ideally, you get the same numbers but I bet the front is wider than the back.

A frame shop can correct both of these issues.

Easy first step if measuring isn't your thing, have a four wheel alignment check done. Don't waste money doing any action as they can't fix it but post up the info here.

GL

 

A little late for that advice!

 

Sad, but true.

 

Thank you Randy, I appreciate all that info. I will get on it and let you know. Thanks again.