Rear Diff Fill Plug REFUSES To Budge

If that's the case then hopefully welding a nut on and hitting it the other way will get it off.

 

Oh boy, First I would smack a smaller socket and heat it. If that doesn’t work along with a pipe wrench and a cheater if you can fit it then I have no idea what is going on besides maybe you tightened it until it rounded off.

 

I REEAALLY hope everyone here is just joking... I think I can tell which direction my impact and socket are spinning.. was just like that in the shot. I tried breaker bar, torque wrench and vice grip all before my impact fyi. But good side note regarding button direction for the future. Either way going to buddies shop in the AM for weld and extract, last resort.

 

Map gas will be enough heat for it and air hammer

 

I personally think if you heat the plug semi red than bang on the pipe wrench extra tight so that it clenches in the right direction, it will come right out. That's how i would do it...YMMV...Good luck.

 

I don't own any high torque impact wrenches. Do they have a clutch or will they torque to the max which is 700 in his case?
My low torque impact drivers don't have a clutch.

 

A twelve point might work. I think now he’s fighting two problems instead of the original one. It’s hard to get a rounded bolt off let alone one that’s seized AND rounded. At this point I would stop fiddling and weld a hex bolt onto that plug.

 

Wellllll... got the bolt off. Went to a buddy and local mechanic of mine who pretty much does it all. Welded on a 32 and we got the thing off rather easily. I did find out that indeed I leaked a lot of fluid through the driver side seal, was nearly dry for a good month or so ..Filled her up, went to Toyota and got a brand new diff plug. Torqued her down to 39lbs as manual notes. Kind of like having a shiny new bolt for everyone to see Thanks to the solid amount of feedback in basically just a day.. I’ll probably invest in a budget welding machine down the road. She’s coming along nicely, suspension work on the horizon fellas!





also @TTund16, my Dewalt impact has 3 speeds, 700lb being max. But I use a torque wrench up to 150lb to finish off most bolts/nuts!

 

About as cheap as it gets right

 

You beat me to it!

Congrats OP. I was following your thread closely lol. Good to see you were successful and you kept us updated. Sometimes people come on here for help with a problem then they disappear and leave us all hanging.

 

@CaptainGrumpus Appreciate it Cap! Everyone here has been great, gotta make sure we give back in return

 

For sure. This place is great.

 

I don't know anything for sure but if I had just gone through this ordeal I'd certainly want some anti-seize on the drain & fill plugs before re-instillation . . .

 

I would put nothing on there. Wipe it clean and install it. Torque it to proper specs.

 

Waiting for you to check the drain plug.

 

I was refurbishing a 30 year old cast iron exhaust manifold that needed new studs mounted at the flange for the tail pipe connection.
Long story short, heat is your friend in these situations as the stud and cast iron manifold had bonded together over the years due to the heating and cooling cycles etc.
I used an oxygen/acetylene torch ~ the manifold was glowing a nice orange color. With 10" vice grips I was able to remove the offending stud.
The first revolution of that stud created a howling noise and the bond was broken. Came right out after that . . .

In this case, even the heat applied by welding the nut will definitely work in your favor.

 

To see if she can come off also or?

Nice write up, makes a ton of sense. The amount of ease my buddy had removing the bolt once it was heated and welded on was extremely easy. Simple torque wrench that wasn’t even adjusted for additional torque.

 

Thanks !

Another time I was trying to remove a pinion nut from a differential on a 1955 Chevy ~ it wasn't even that old at the time. I had a cheater bar on my ratchet and put a hydraulic jack under the handle.
When I raised the jack all it did was lift the rear end of the car !
When working with fasteners that are torqued down tight the impact wrench works much better than a long cheater bar in some instances.

 

Paint it black

Yup, but odds are it has oil coated threads and will hopefully come off no sweat.

 

*Rattles Plastidip can*

I’ll go ahead and loosen it for the sake of checking, that’s probably it

 

Hell, I'm just glad you tried to remove the fill plug BEFORE you drained it. That coulda been bad...

 

OMG this came up at the perfect time. Literally two days I tried changing my diff fluid and it made the bolt rounder than the earth. I had to take it to my local garage where they drilled it out and installed and new plug. I guess those boys in Indiana must have used the good red loctite or cross threaded the F@&k out of it. The funny thing is my drain plug came out with no issues at all.

 

Glad you got this figured out. Next thing we need to do is check you in to hand rehab.

PM me. I know some people.

 

One problem is better than two

We all cant be genetically gifted like you Hands. Just PMed you.. asking for a friend..