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Rattle can paint job help.

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Scuba, Oct 28, 2019.

  1. Oct 28, 2019 at 4:09 PM
    #1
    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    Hey guys. I’m doing a rattle can job on my Tacoma because I had to swap cabs due to a roll.
    I’ve never been great at paint but I’m trying my damnedest to at least get it decent looking.
    I know, I know.. “shoulda bought a paint gun.. shoulda had a shop do it.. rattle can jobs suck..etc.”
    Save that junk for other threads and those with good knowledge of paint/ body work please assist in any way possible.


    I’m using a Krylon brand John Deere green which does have a glossy finish however I do plan on clear coating over it. So far I have painted the hood and cab with 2 coats consisting of about 3 or 4 light coats. Everything looks pretty good but I have a large area on the hood that looks uneven. And here is where I need help. You can see in the following picture that there is a large spot center right that looks more glossy and just all around better than the rest of the hood.
    I plan on doing 1 more coat consisting of 2-3 light coats like the can says.
    Now: do I focus my efforts on adding more paint to the other parts of the hood and stay away from that area? What should I do to get the hood one solid finish and color? I’m guessing if I just threw clear coat on it now it would mirror that same spot that looks more saturated. Right?




    Any advice would be helpful. I still have to paint the doors and fenders but I would like to have my process down before hand.
    Thanks.
     
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  2. Oct 28, 2019 at 4:17 PM
    #2
    Medic343

    Medic343 No longer the new guy

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    Good luck to you man, so far I'd say it's looking good.
    I got a 94 Camry I'm about to do the same thing to, so I'm in here for the advice!
     
  3. Oct 28, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #3
    chphilo

    chphilo Tundra addict

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    I personally would do more than three coats. Make sure the surface is completely dry before spraying. I've made a mess before by not doing that.
     
  4. Oct 28, 2019 at 4:23 PM
    #4
    BeachyTundra

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    Well, I'm by no means a professional, but I'd say that your idea was right; start with light coats and get something for the paint to "grab" to. Not going into primer, sanding, etc. as prep is it's entirely own thing.

    Looking at it, it looks like you can see the fan marks from the spray. I'd say that you're not putting enough paint on in order to get uniform coverage and you're not creating your "wet" coat.

    Take a look at the front of the hood, it looks very even and uniform and smooth. I'm guessing that's because it's one of the easiest spots to access, and whether you realize it or not, you're probably doing a much better job of laying down a uniform coat there.
     
  5. Oct 28, 2019 at 5:26 PM
    #5
    JohnLakeman

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    Agree with previous post, you're not laying down enough material after the first light "bonding coat" to provide good coverage, or, in the case of a single stage paint, to provide gloss. It's a tricky balance, especially with rattle cans. Too little material, your spray path is obvious and you don't get good coverage; too much material, and you get runs and sags.

    It does appear you need a good "wet" coat all over to provide uniform color. I might also suggest you try to run the passes for that coat at 90 degrees from the previous coats.

    If your green was a basecoat made to be clear coated, the clear should be applied before the base coat is fully cured. Usually, the paint data sheets will tell you how long you have to apply the clear, but it's typically 24 hours or less.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
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  6. Oct 28, 2019 at 6:45 PM
    #6
    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    Thank you everyone so far for the good feedback. It sounds like the next time I touch it I need to saturate the rest of the hood better than before.

    I won’t be able to paint it again for another couple days since it will be raining. Once I do I will keep y’all updated.
     
  7. Oct 29, 2019 at 4:04 AM
    #7
    Twinky

    Twinky Keep the shinny side up!

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  8. Oct 29, 2019 at 9:38 AM
    #8
    BeachyTundra

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    Like he mentions, making sure you apply your clear (if using) in the proper time-frame is important. Worst case, you let it fully cure out for a couple days and come back and sand it a bit in order for the clear to have something to adhere to. I believe clear can "cover" sanding as aggressive as 1000grit. You shouldn't need that aggressive to give it something to adhere to, but just an FYI so you don't get too aggressive on your sanding if needed.

    Best of luck and keep us posted!
     
  9. Oct 29, 2019 at 3:22 PM
    #9
    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    The paint cans don't mention anything about clear coating. I didn't know that certain paints aren't good with clear coat. I just thought clear coat was a given. A friend of mine who painted his truck 10 years ago said he wishes he had clear coated his because it has faded pretty good. That's why I have been counting on it as a final step.

    I just read a Q+A on Krylons website that states they do not recommend clear coating over the paint.
    https://www.krylon.com/products/farm-implement-paint-aerosol/

    That being said, I will have to try and get the best glossy finish with the paint alone.

    I was thinking about hanging the hood, doors, and fenders from my covered patio so I can paint them vertical instead of horizontal. I'm hoping that will help me get a more even coat. Would y'all recommend for or against that?
    I realize that I will have a greater risk of the paint running but I think it may help me get better light spread on the surface so I can see the coat better and thus helping me get a more even coat. I think that keeping the paint can vertical instead of horizontal will help with this also. What say ye?
     
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  10. Oct 29, 2019 at 3:27 PM
    #10
    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    BTW I think I have the prep game down pretty well :p
     
  11. Oct 29, 2019 at 3:33 PM
    #11
    Medic343

    Medic343 No longer the new guy

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    Spraying a more consistent pattern is definitely easier when it's hanging vertically. When spraying downward because the piece is horizontal it is much more susceptible to an inconsistent spray angle which will cause irregular coats of paint in certain areas.
    Try you best to remember the spray can and nozzle should always be 90 degrees from what you are spraying, if you start rotating the can or bending your wrist to spray the outside edges you will not get good paint coverage. You should be moving your whole arm/body parallel to the hood not standing in one spot near the middle and shooting out toward the edges. If that makes any sense.
     
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  12. Oct 29, 2019 at 4:10 PM
    #12
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra New Member

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    Correct, and maintaining a consistent distance from the surface throughout the whole stroke of your spray.

    I would recommend hanging it like you mentioned OP, but two things to consider; Likely a higher a risk of contaminants outdoors (little nibs of dirt, pollen, etc. to get into your paint) which isn't a deal breaker, just may add more time sanding/buffing/polishing afterwards if you're OCD. Second thing, hanging big items like that will result in the item wanting to "roll" from the hanging point. IE; your hood will look like / rather than | . This can be fixed by adding something to push out the bottom of the panel you're working on so that everything stays as straight as possible.

    Somebody else can chime in here, but I think painting from bottom-up is better than top-down in the hanging scenario. I think it helps reduce chance of overloading and creating runs.
     
  13. Oct 29, 2019 at 4:36 PM
    #13
    JohnLakeman

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    I agree with "walking" the panel at a constant rate, with can/nozzle 90 degrees to the surface and at constant distance from the panel. I would add to also overlap the previous pass by 25-30 percent for uniform coverage...the spray fan is thinner at the outside of the cone.

    Your first coat should be a light bonding coat which is applied much like a "guide coat" for sanding. A bonding coat will reduce the tendency to run or sag. Apply succeeding coats "wet" for gloss.

    Remember: Too much material, you are likely to have runs. You will have a learning period trying to get all these parameters right. The tendency to run and sag will be greater in the vertical position, but unmounted panels are typically painted as they will be mounted on the vehicle.

    If you get runs/sags, then you have the opportunity to learn how to use nib files. :D

    https://www.amazon.com/Steck-Manufa...id=1572392720&sprefix=nib+file,aps,174&sr=8-4
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
  14. Oct 29, 2019 at 6:46 PM
    #14
    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    Thank you gentlemen for the help. All good ideas and suggestions. I appreciate it.
    With all of that said, my last question would be this:
    The hood has that “high spot” in the middle that is the most glossy and gives me the finish I seek. Let’s say in a perfect world I lay down my next coat on the hood (or coats) and it’s a perfect even coat.. is that spot in the middle going to shine through? Is that something I should sand down like it’s a high spot? Or should I just go straight for it and try and put down the best and most even coat possible?
     
  15. Oct 29, 2019 at 7:02 PM
    #15
    Medic343

    Medic343 No longer the new guy

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    If you're using gloss spray paint and you evenly cover the rest of the hood it should just blend in. You're not gonna get darker or glossier (is that a word?) By continuing to add paint. You'll simply get more coats or a thicker base. Well that's how it works in my head at least...someone will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure.
     
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  16. Oct 29, 2019 at 7:38 PM
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    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    Okay cool.
    I think I have a bit of a better understanding as to what needs to be done to get the hood to look even.
    Thank you everyone.
    I plan on more painting the on hood Thursday. Keep your fingers crossed for me. I will post up more pictures after then.
     
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  17. Oct 29, 2019 at 7:40 PM
    #17
    AzureNightmare

    AzureNightmare F.N.G. (F*cks Not Given)

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  18. Oct 29, 2019 at 7:46 PM
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    7.62Tundra

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    looks like a rattle can job.
     
  19. Oct 29, 2019 at 8:05 PM
    #19
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    You still need to sand uniformly to scuff up paint you've already applied to insure a good bond.
     
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  20. Oct 29, 2019 at 8:55 PM
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    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    I really appreciate your valued input in my thread! I encourage you to try the same thing I have and see where your results get you (painting outside in 80* weather with 10 MPH wind gusts throughout the day). I’ll even give you 2 cans of paint, the old hood, and drop them off to you in bumfuck San Antonio. In case you didn’t read, I don’t care that it looks like a rattle can job. I care that I get an even finish.

    John, I very much appreciate your continued input and help. It means a lot. :thumbsup:

    Btw, I think the back side of the new cab looks more even and uniform due to it being vertical.

     
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  21. Oct 29, 2019 at 9:23 PM
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    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny A surge of truck truck mods :)

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    Looks badass so far :popcorn:
     
  22. Oct 29, 2019 at 9:37 PM
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    Scuba

    Scuba [OP] Sober member

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    Thanks brotatoe chip. I still have a lot left to do but I’m pretty pleased with everything so far.
    And, hey, if it looks too much like a rattle can job, well, it’s a damn 20 year old truck that’s been put through the ringer and is mainly used for rock crawling. I’m gonna send it hard no matter what. :burnrubber:
     
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  23. Oct 30, 2019 at 7:18 AM
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    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny A surge of truck truck mods :)

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    Send it!!!
     
  24. Oct 30, 2019 at 8:28 AM
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    Yota303

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    Did you primer the hood before you started painting? A few good coats of primer and light sanding between will really help your top coats out both with filling any high and low spots, sealing any bare metal and creating an even textured surface to lay your paint down on. I know it’s just a rattle can job but you can make it look somewhat professional if you take your time and do some prep work. Light Brillo pad or steel wool between coats to knock down any dust that got trapped in the previous coat of paint followed by a tack cloth before next coat of paint. Try to do multiple light even coats all from an even distance about 10-12” from the surface. I try to spray in a checkerboard pattern spraying continuously from one side of the piece to the other without stopping. Try to spray in the morning or evening when temps are cooler and never in direct sunlight and allow to dry completely before the next coat. I know it’s hard to be patient when rattle can painting but just take your time and it will look great! Same with your clear coat the more layers the better to get an even looking finish with light sanding between even wet sanding with 1,500-2,000 grit if possible followed with a tack cloth and air gun on your compressor. Keep us updated with pictures and progress! Looks like a sweet rig you have going man!
     
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  25. Oct 30, 2019 at 8:45 AM
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    Randy Morton

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  26. Oct 30, 2019 at 10:15 AM
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    Scuba

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    Yes I did primer the hood. I waited the required 4 hours that the can says and then sanded all of the grit off with 220. I followed that with sprayed rubbing alcohol and a terry cloth towel and then more alcohol and a microfiber towel. I then let it sit in the sun for a few mins to let the alcohol evaporate and made sure it was dry before spraying any color.

    Thanks! I thought about roll on but I recall seeing some roll on paint jobs that looked worse than rattle can jobs. Looks like that guy is a pretty great painter overall. That job looks almost professional.
     
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  27. Oct 30, 2019 at 10:21 AM
    #27
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    I love that truck man! I must be part dog because I really want to go for a ride. Once a long time ago, I primer and my 64 Oldsmobile flat black. I was quite pleased with the results. But I sure hate painting. I think I got lucky because every project there after I always seem to get a run. But I do recall painting vertical surfaces always turned out better. It’s hard when it’s a large surface like a vehicle. Whenever possible I try to hang my project from a coat hanger or something. But you won’t be doing that with your truck. A rotisserie would be nice. Definitely in for the results on how it all turns out when you get it put back together.
     
  28. Nov 2, 2019 at 12:17 AM
    #28
    Twinky

    Twinky Keep the shinny side up!

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    I dig it!
    Looks like you got a good game plan. Should turn out nice and I'm eager to see the results.
     
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  29. Nov 2, 2019 at 12:26 AM
    #29
    Scuba

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    Thanks! I got a few runs on the hood today. I sprayed a couple light coats and then went about the rest of my day putting the truck back together.
    Didn’t get a good chance to take any pictures but, from what I’ve read I need to wait till it dries and then try and wet sand the runs out.
     
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  30. Nov 2, 2019 at 1:30 AM
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    gears_call

    gears_call New Member

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    Don’t forget wet sanding when don’t to get rid of the orange peel. It’s not that hard and gives you a better looking product overall
     
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