PULSATING WHEN BRAKING

Nope. The only non-standard part on the truck is the floor mats... Truck has the OEM aluminum wheels, a brand new set of Michelin LTX M/S2, and had a four-wheel alignment done when the tires were installed. The front right caliper was replaced months ago during one of the shop visits after they determined it could be sticking. After its replacement, I bought a temp gun and occasionally hopped out after stopping to compare left/right side temperatures and they are close, so it doesn't appear that they're sticking.

I get all the symptoms. Steering wheel shake, pedal pulse, and feel it in my butt. Sometimes it's barely there, sometimes it is so intense that it might lift me out of my seat if my seat belt weren't fastened.

 

@xround ....
Lug nuts that are not torqued correctly can ruin wheels and affect rotor runout. Over-torquing the lug nuts does not affect runout immediately. However, as the rotor heats up, the uneven clamping force of the lug nuts causes the rotor to expand unevenly.

Toyota Tundra torque spec is 97 ft-lb for Aluminum wheels and 154 for steelies.


Attach each lug nut by hand, and then using a torque wrench tighten each lug nut in a star pattern until you hear the 'click' sound that indicates you've reached the value set on the torque wrench. Typically, I will do it in two stages, say 50 ft-lb then 97 ft-lb. And always torque with tires on the ground.

Disclaimer: I am by no means an “Expert” just an old fart that has tinkered with cars and trucks my whole life.

 

Pretty good stuff here, I tighten them down while in the air so that the lugs can center the wheel prior to lowering it onto the ground for a final torque check. Shops often use a powered ugga dugga gun to put lugs on with no regard for "spec". Request that the wheels be torqued to your spec, in this case 97ft/lbs, with a torque wrench. Every shop has one.

 

Just did my rear rotors and pads Tuesday and torqued the steeliest with snow tires at 154 ft lb just like you said. My summer wheels are aluminum so 97 ft lb. It’s must. It’s easy to find the torque specs online.

 

Since they're already installed, tell me if I'm correct in filling in the gaps in your explanation:

1. Park truck in 4WD with parking brake on (locks all the wheels together so nothing can rotate, right?)
2. Lift wheel off the ground, break nuts loose manually if possible, if not possible use impact gun. Break loose in star pattern. Remove all lug nuts.
3. Thread lug nuts back on by hand.
4. Drop wheel back onto the ground, torque in star pattern to 97 ft-lb in stages as you mentioned

Sound ok? Sorry I am mechanically a kindergartener...

 

This sounds so frustrating. Keep pushing for a resolution OP.

 

UPDATE - Just did this & the issue is fixed. The lug nuts on the front right wheel were so tight that I felt like I was breaking loose loc-tite. One of the nuts also looked like someone had put an up-sized socket on it and just let it eat.

So anyway, anybody with this issue, check your lug nuts. And it may be good policy to check them any time you get new rotors.

 

Glad this worked, see post #22.....