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Power Mirror Switch Illumination

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by spiketundra, Jul 15, 2020.

  1. Nov 15, 2020 at 5:03 PM
    #31
    Joe333x

    Joe333x Member

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    Lol i used to have a dog that knew how to roll the windows down too. Now i have a cap and keep them in the bed, happy medium, they have their own windows back there and I can close or open the window to the bed.
     
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  2. Nov 16, 2020 at 5:34 PM
    #32
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    I know how you feel. Luckily, I can back in at an angle to get my truck on my half of the garage. The parking lot at work can be worse.20200407_150240.jpg 20200407_150431.jpg 20200407_150451.jpg 20200407_150531.jpg 20200407_150557.jpg
     
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  3. Nov 16, 2020 at 5:49 PM
    #33
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    Nice work @TSands83. Great explanation.
    I dug deep into this a year ago and was in communication working with kTJO. I looked at the diagrams and felt it was too good to be true since the switch was can bus. I mentioned to her that it didn’t seem like it would be easy and I was definitely surprised when she said she had come out with a switch.

    The final straw that made me give up on the project was when I realized 200 series land cruisers have the 10 pin switch and we are 8. I knew something odd was up. I believe 1794s and platinums are the only vehicles in Toyota’s lineup that use can bus for the mirrors
     
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  4. Nov 16, 2020 at 9:10 PM
    #34
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    Hmm, upon further inspection of this 28-pin Toyota switch from KTJO, I would be a bit hesitant to plug this directly in to the 10-pin connector and run mirror motor current directly through this switch. The circuits imbedded in the PCBs are very delicate and there's a QFP48 microprocessor as well as 2 SSOP36 SMD IC chips. Obviously there's more than meets the eye here. I really wish I had a pinout or diagram of this switch and the vehicle it was intended for. I think that the 28 to 10 pin harness that KTJO was haphazard at best. Definitely a lot different than circuitry in my old 93 Supra used to be. But hey, I'm no expert or engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.
    I am curious since others have mentioned KTJO, if this switch has ever worked for anyone? If so, for how long?20201116_214805.jpg
     
  5. Nov 17, 2020 at 4:38 AM
    #35
    Bronco Ken

    Bronco Ken New Member

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    Wouldn't it be easier to wire up a little LED light right above it? You know like the ones in the strips or the little pinhole type.



    blue lights.jpg
     
  6. Nov 17, 2020 at 5:42 AM
    #36
    Stumpjumper

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    Glad I have no need to deal with this as I am the only driver. The only time I have adjust the mirrors is after I clean the glass. I drove my neighbors Prius at night once and switch is back-lit. If a Prius is then why not trucks?
     
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  7. Nov 17, 2020 at 7:09 AM
    #37
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    Yeah, it would be easier. It's been done here:
    https://www.tundras.com/posts/57695/
    And here:
    https://www.tundras.com/posts/1324923/
    Not really my style. The point here is to get a factory switch illuminated the way it should've been in the first place. Toyota went through all of the effort to incorporate CAN bus but overlooked a basic feature offered on practically every vehicle out today. All of the other switches around it are illuminated why not this one? When I give up, then I'll consider the other lighting methods or just live with it like everyone else. One of the things I miss the most about my 2011 Ram 1500 Sport was that EVERY switch was illuminated...what I don't miss were the problems it had.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2020
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  8. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #38
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    I think the best solution(although not an easy one) is to separate the current switch and replace the pad with a translucent one and add tiny blue LEDs inside. There’s a couple posts on it over on tundra talk. Looks factory and does the job, plus you don’t have to hack the can bus wiring.

    One con to this in addition to it not being completely OEM is that the mirror fold button won’t be lit.
     
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  9. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:52 AM
    #39
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11

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    Do you have a link?
     
  10. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:55 AM
    #40
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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  11. Nov 17, 2020 at 9:03 AM
    #41
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11

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  12. Nov 22, 2020 at 1:14 AM
    #42
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    Well, good news for the folks with the 10 pin J130 connector (non-CAN bus)...it appears that the fully illuminated mirror switch that I got from KTJO 4X4 is indeed compatible for your application. I found these diagrams for the 12-18 Toyota Auris that uses the 28 pin switch.

    Corolla/Auris Remote Control Mirror (w/ Automatic Retractable Mirror) Diagram
    20201121_211005.jpg

    Corolla/Auris Illumination Diagram
    20201121_211053.jpg

    Corolla/Auris E17 Outer Mirror Switch Connector
    20201122_011657.jpg

    Corolla/Auris Outer Mirror Switch Inspection
    (There were errors in the repair manual where they duplicated the w/o auto retract version. I made the corrections.)
    20201122_012055.jpg 20201122_011545.jpg

    So, this is how the 10 to 28 pin adapter harness looks
    mirror switch 10 to 28 pin adapter harness.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2020
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  13. Nov 22, 2020 at 8:08 AM
    #43
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    As suspected, the diagrams definitely confirm that the fully illuminated KTJO 4X4 switch is not compatible with the 8 pin CAN setup on the Platinum/1794 without some sort of interface. I still haven't heard back from KTJO 4X4 yet.
    I considered fabricating a flexible PCB for the LEDs and kitbashing the buttons. The larger button could be swapped and I could put 2 LEDS under that. However, the 2 smaller buttons are completely different in construction and there's no clearance under them to mount any LEDs. The mirror select switch contacts are positioned differently and the retract button mechanism is completely different. Even hacking off the front of the housings and swapping them wouldn't work. At best, I would end up with a lower half illuminated switch or a Franken-switch. Nope.
    To be continued...
     
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  14. Nov 22, 2020 at 8:16 AM
    #44
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11

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    Wish there was a illuminated Non-power fold switch.
     
  15. Nov 28, 2020 at 6:37 PM
    #45
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    Update: I just got an email from Katie at KTJO 4X4. She's looking into it.
    Screenshot_20201128-110915_Outlook.jpg
     
  16. Nov 29, 2020 at 7:56 AM
    #46
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    @dittothat How far did you get with KTJO?
    I got another email from her yesterday. Something's not right. It can't be this simple.
    Screenshot_20201129-095224_Outlook.jpg
     
  17. Nov 29, 2020 at 8:05 AM
    #47
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    I got to the connector phase so you’ve already made it farther than I did.
    But I agree with you and have my doubts it’s that easy.

    edit: looking at it, that diagram doesn’t work. Maybe it would fold our mirrors, but all the adjustments to the mirrors are now missing. Left, right, up, down
     
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  18. Nov 29, 2020 at 1:32 PM
    #48
    TSands83

    TSands83 New Member

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    I'm reviewing Katie's recommended pinout...

    In trying to reverse engineer the original 8pin J131 switch and compare the functions of the other switches (10pin J130 and 28pin E17)....

    1st off, pins J131 pins 5-7 are empty, so pinning wires there without adding wires on the harness side would be pointless.
    20201128_214807.jpg

    This is what I have so far, based off of the J131 switch inspection sheet. BUT, when I look at the BCM inspection sheet, the voltage conditions in J131 pins 1 and 3 seem opposite to me. I will need to change this diagram I made. There might be some 2 way communication going on here. Again, this is not official. I'll verify the switch operation with a DMM. I'm hoping that these aren't multiplexing signals as I don't have an oscilloscope. 20201129_103032.jpg

    As I mentioned before, J131 pins 1-3 are BCM communication channels. J131 utilizes M+ (pin 1) differently than J130 and E17 do. If E17 was connected...when you press, down or right that would introduce power to to J131-1 M+ and short out the BCM, pressing up or left, would ground it.

    J131-2 (E1) is not a chassis ground; it's a return channel to the BCM. Best to leave J130-7/E17-10,23 off of it.

    Chassis ground is only on J131-4, so J130-7/E17-10,23 should probably be exclusive to this pin.

    That leaves out HL (J130-5/E17-17), HR (J130-2/E17-14), VL (J130-4/E17-25), and VR (J130-3/E17-24). How is the BCM to interpret up, down, left, and right signals for each mirror if there's no provision for those?

    J130 and E17 use M+, in conjuction with HL, HR, VL, and VR...switching polarity between up/left and down right. J131 uses pin 3 M+ for all directions, but changes resistance 100 Ω up, 470 Ω down, 800 Ω left, and 250 Ω right. J131 uses pin 1 MSW to determine mirror selection...100 Ω left, <1 Ω right, and 10 kΩ off. Some sort of interface will be needed to convert J130-6/E17-4,7 M+, J130-5/E17-17 HL, J130-2/E17-14 HR, J130-4/E17-25 VL, and J130-3/E17-24 VR into a usable J131-1 MSW, J131-2 E, and J131-3M+ signals.

    For the mirror retract function, only J131-8 MF (J130-10/E17-6) is used. The BCM supplies 11-14V from J3-6 to J131-8. When retract is on, the circuit is completed to j131-4 (J130-7/E17-10) chassis ground.
    But there's more to it than that...when retract is off, the polarity in the switch is reversed. A diode would need to be used on J131-8 MF (J130-10/E17-6) or it would short out the BCM. Of course, a 4pin relay could be used with MF and MR activating the relay, and leads to J131-8 and J131-4 being switched, but I think a diode would still be needed or the mirrors would never return to driving position.

    If she's talking about adding the fused constant power red wire to J131-6 on the harness side and connect E17-1 B to it...that's fine.

    So, we still haven't addressed J130-1/E17-3 ILL+. THE WHOLE REASON FOR THIS SWITCH IN THE FIRST PLACE! Here's my thought...splice J50-1 (cargo light switch) to add a wire to J131-5 and connect J130-1/E17-3 to it.

    In conclusion, here's what would need to be done...

    - J131-4 E2 to J130-7/E17-10,23 E/GND/ILL-.
    - J131-8 MF to J130-10/E17-6 MF/FL with a diode and remove J130-9/E17-16 MR entirely OR connect J130-10/E17-6 MF, J130-9/E17-16 MR, J131-8 MF and J131-4 E2 to a relay with a diode.
    - Add the fused constant power red wire (25A DR/LCK[BAT]) to J131-6 on the harness side and connect E17-1 B to it.
    - Splice J50-1 (ILL+, cargo light switch) to add a wire to J131-5 and connect J130-1/E17-3 ILL+ to it.
    - Add a fused switched power wire (7.5A ACC) to J131-7 on the harness side and connect J130-8/E17-11,21 B/IGB1/ACC to it.
    - An interface will be needed to convert J130-6/E17-4,7 M+, J130-5/E17-17 HL, J130-2/E17-14 HR, J130-4/E17-25 VL, and J130-3/E17-24 VR into a usable J131-1 MSW, J131-2 E, and J131-3M+ signals.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2020 at 4:01 PM

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