Popping noise

tbh those LBJ's are sus. Like REALLY sus. Especially with all the grease.


peep this thread

https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-lower-ball-joint-lbj-failures.141860/

 

OK. I'm gonna do what I can. I just got those moog lower ball joints about 3 months ago. Along with the front end suspension parts I had gotten from Detroit axle, new tires, rear end differential rebuilt, alignment and some other stuff...so I don't know if I'm gonna be able to keep up with this. I thought going into it, that it would be an amazing truck that would get me thru the next few years...but I don't have the money to replace stuff I've already gotten and continue to replace more. I don't know where to go from here, but I'm really thankful for yall's help.

 

One of my co-workers had a moog LBJ fail after about 5k miles. Taking a slow turn in The parking lot on (about to go home) and then his fender decided to "meet and greet" the tire.

 

It sounds like you've already invested a substantial amount of $ in and it looks pretty darn clean from what I've seen. Based on what you've said throughout this thread, I believe I'd hold on to it. In my mind, the 2 things that stand out are:

1) Systematically working through the most likely things members have given input to that could be causing the issues/symptoms

And

2) Finding someone more competent/knowledgeable to complete the work.


I know, easy for me to say

 

I too had that clunk upon turning. Especially turning while sitting still or moving slowly. I searched and searched for 2 years with no luck. Awhile back, I replaced my front shocks and got the suggested alignment. When I drove away, I noticed right off the bat the annoying clunk was completely gone. I followed up later with the guy that did the alignment and he stated that it was pretty far out of spec. Ive read that torquing the alignment cam bolt can help. I cant tell you exactly where that clunk was coming from, just that the good alignment took care of it once and for all.

 

If it were my truck, I would clean that transmission crossmember up really well of the oil and stuff and look closely for cracks next. There was a TSB as mentioned on the first page of the thread for your MY. Follow the TSB recommendations for specs.

I'd also get that carrier bearing sorted out.

You've replaced a lot parts that could have caused popping with no resolution. Those 2 stand out for me as very possible causes.

As I said in the DM (and several others mentioned here), OEM lower ball joints are superior in their quality, and, therefore, safety. The MOOGS should be replaced ASAP for your well-being and investment up to this point.

 

OK, thanks for that! As I've mentioned a few times, I'm barely keeping my head above water...just like millions of others, I know, but between divorce, surgery, kids in college, and having to take on full weight of bills and his debt...well, it's been pretty rough to say the least. And I thought the mechanic I was using, was really good. He's done a bunch of work on both my vehicles and my son's Saturn. I think it was mainly towards the end, after he wrecked my truck on the way to get parts, that things started changing. And I started worrying about the work he was doing. And of course, his old lady had a problem with him being my mechanic such bullshit...and then finding out that he didn't actually replace the bumper like he said he was going to, only replacing the cover, and just beat it back into shape...that really set me off. Smh...I hate when people change up on you in the middle of business. But he's the one that did the valve cover gasket, rear end differential, idler pulley and belt, drums and shoes, front end suspension, condenser (from the wreck) and some other stuff. Everything looks right besides the shit with the hood and bumper. So far, at least. And a friend of mine paid their mechanic to do my front rotors and pads as a 'Christmas present' he said, lol! That mechanic is the one that suggested the control arms, carrier bearing, and cross member bushing. Also the lbj's. And every since I got the tires rebalanced the other day, the vibration had calmed down a good bit, but someone else had mentioned the carrier bearing awhile back and so I asked my original mechanic to check it out and he said it was ok. Anyways, I just found the lbj's for my truck on the mcgeorge website...i thought there was some kind of discount on them? It's damn near $300 for both of them...fucking hell!

 

I haven't bought from Mcgeorge, yet, but I'm sure someone will help with discount info soon.

How many miles are on this truck?

Nvm, I see how many now.

Have you been able to get the oil off the crossmember and check for cracks in it?

 

I would focus on the LBJs. Assume the timing belt was done with the AISIN kit, the rest can wait till your situation improves. Regarding the driveshaft, can you contact the previous owner to get the story on that. The factory driveshafts are balanced with weights of varying amount tack welded to the shafts and should remain clocked in their original positions by marking with a paint pen when the carrier bearing or center joint is changed. Between your “mechanic” and the aftermarket driveshaft, I wouldn’t be surprised if this is contributing to vibrations. You may want to have a driveline specialist look it. Cot tans on Bush River Rd gets good reviews. Another option might be pulling an entire driveshaft out of a truck at U-Pull It.

 

I have not had the chance to clean the cross member yet...I don't get home till after 6 and it's dark and has been super cold. The driveshaft was Dorman. That's all I got from him. He's the one that got the new engine and put the driveshaft on himself. And thank you for sharing that place on bush river rd! I had just gotten a name for another shop 'Carpenters' off 302...the owner worked at Toyota? Ever heard of them? And do ya'll know if it's cheaper to go thru the mcgeorge website or the toyota website that was linked previously, by any chance? I really want to get the lbj's ordered ASAP so I can get the truck done cause my car has been overheating more than usual. I've been driving her cause I'm a little worried about driving the truck with all the feedback I've gotten. And the carrier bearing is Dana spicier...is they on a different website?

 

Might want to also check the price at Sparks Parts. They are a Toyota dealership in Myrtle Beach that has a huge online sales dept. They probably offer free shipping if the order is more than $75. Another option is ordering from Toyota online parts and shipping to a local dealer to avoid shipping charges. Not all dealers participate. Not sure if Jim Hudson does or not. He just bought a couple of small dealerships so hoping.

 

Ya'll...that fucking diagram shit is absolutely ridiculous! good God almighty! Ok, I'll check it out! Thanks!

 

I have no experience with Carpenters and I don’t know Benji Carpenter but he seems to get good reviews. Obvious he’s more convenient than driving an hour. Go talk to him about LBJs and why you want OEM only. See what he says. If he agrees good. If not, run.

carrier bearing. Several threads on that. Dana Spicer make the OEM carrier bearing. They have a couple different ones you’ll see for 2000-2006 Tundra. One is for 4WD and the other is for 2WD. The only difference AFAIK is the 4WD version has a seal on both sides of the bearing to prevent water and dirt from entering when off road. I think they are interchangeable for our trucks. The Dana Spicer bearing should be about half the cost of the Toyota part even though they are the exact same.

 

PS - those diagrams on the EPC site are the only way to 100% ensure you get the correct part numbers for replacement parts. Any other source should be verified.

 

So far Toyodiy.com hasn't failed me. Just Plug in your vin and off you go.

 

Alright, I give up...I have the part for the carrier bearing or center bearing (whatever it's supposed to be called) from the diagram...and I've got dana pulled up, but out of the 4 they say fit my truck...none of them match the part number or even the year! I can not figure it out and they don't offer any option to contact customer support or anything. Can someone help please? And I've got the lbj's on the way, whoop whoop! Lol! No, still haven't cleaned off the cross member...honestly I don't know what to use either...brake cleaner? Oven cleaner? Lol!

 

OK, had to delete that last post cause when I typed in the part number from the diagram shared, it keeps coming back as a Tacoma...on the dana website and when I plug it into Google...wtf? I'm just gonna call Toyota, this is giving me a headache. Sorry ya'll

 

Good morning! Wanted to share that I got the ball joints done and I'm so freaking glad I found ya'll and this forum, and got so much help from people I don't even know!! I really mean that, with all my heart! The right side was bad...and it's amazing how much more stable the truck feels now! Thank you, thank you, thank you! And the vibration had calmed down immensely! I can drive 75-80 and it's barely there! I have not had the chance to do anything else as I've been thrown from one crisis to another since the new year, which has been overwhelming to say the least, but my next step is to check the cross member. I found a pretty decent mechanic...older gentleman that is retired from a Nissan dealership and has worked on many Toyota's as well. Not sure if I'm gonna be able to continue to use him cause he's a little expensive for my budget, but he's gonna let me use his lift to put the truck up. I still have the popping/clunking noises in the front end, along with the pull to the left when braking and a little while driving. If I push on the brakes easy, no pull...but if I have to brake harder, that's when it's almost like the caliper is quicker on the left than the right...if that makes any sense. I've got a friend coming out this weekend just to put eyes on both my vehicles and take his time looking at stuff to give me a better idea of what I really need to address first. He works at a small shop and has some experience with Toyota's...and I've showed him all yall's comments so that he has a better understanding of what needs to be checked out. And I definitely need to get that oil leak stopped. You know, I got the part number for the bolts that I needed for the lbj's...called around to the dealerships and got them...only to get told they weren't the right ones?! Mechanic said they were too small, but that the ones I already had were still good so he used those. Blew my mind cause i even verified the number with Toyota and my Vin #! So I don't know what happened there...anyways, I wanted to give ya'll an update and thank ya'll. Do ya'll ever try to get together in person?? I think it would be awesome...just saying

 

I don't agree with resusing those bolts. Here's the bolts page Spiker Engineering Lower Ball Joint Bolt Test (1st Gen) | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Do you have the silver bolts w: built in washers? Or the black bolts w/ washers that hang loose?

 

I'm not super happy about it either, but I was desperate to get the lbj's done so that it was safe enough to drive up to chesnee to get my son out of jail...smh, he had been in there and me down here in columbia, not able to do a damn thing and it was driving me crazy! So as soon as he got done with the truck, I got on the road. Thank you for sharing that...I'll check it out now.

 

silver https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1902#post-3511963

 

I don't know why, but this resonates with me. I feel like I've been there before. Like camping or something. I know that I've been to Cowpens. Maybe I drove through it.

 

They only gave me the silver bolts at the dealership...no washers. It was part #
90080-10066. And the parts depth verified them for me, so I don't know what's going on, but it's a pain in the ass! But I'm not surprised at all anymore...this is my life we're talking about and it's always ALWAYS some fuckery!

 

Yes, chesnee is on the northeastern side of spartanburg. Cowpens, campobella, mayo, boiling springs...all northeastern spartanburg, SC.

 

Same thing happened to me with the bolts. VIN verified as the 90080-10066. Too small.
90105-12316 part is what you want.

 

Thank you @Fragman!!

 

Youngest son and wife love Chesnee probably because it's so close to the Smokie Mnts where they love to hike.