Poor audio quality kenwood head unit

You should only need to pull forward the bottom 12” of the back panel to see the amp. But I don’t have a DC and don’t know fully what is involved with popping the corner forward.

 

I haven't read the entire thread but have you tried adjusting your 13 band EQ?

Your HU manual.
113DNX575S



I ran stock speakers on Fosgate Punch 75 amps for over 10 years with no problems..

 

I have tried adjust the EQ but I didn't notice much improvement.

 

So the rear panel was removed along with the h/u. And here are the results.No amp bypass installed.

 

Is the loudness on or off. My head unit has 3 levels for loudness. With it off, the sound is very mild and flat.

 

The loudness is off or on level 1. Which headunit do you have installed?

 

Mine is a Pioneer, but the loudness function is pretty universal. If your using the head units built in amp and no additional sound processing, the loudness helps to make the sound more robust. Try it on the max loudness setting and see if it improves.

 

Loudness is for lower volume levels, it simply boosts highs and lows..
It shouldn't be needed for normal volume levels.

Car Audio: What is the Loud Setting on a Car Head Unit?

Sounds like you need to bypass that OEM amp if it is indeed wiried in.
You've got the HU working against Toyota OEM amp settings that use lower ohm OEM speakers..
As well as your 20-year-old OEM speakers may be worn out....

 

Lots of rabbit holes to run down. But...

I know that Head Unit, having two of the subsequent generation: DNX697S.

Read the Owner's Manual (attached) at Page #81 -- Menu / Audio / Volume Offset

Perhaps, these settings have been monkeyed with by the prior owner? Set all sources at Zero = 0, and work each one from there. (the USB input likes being gained up a bit)

Navigation in the dash and it plays CD's... If you don't want the unit, I do. The only negative I've discovered is that the Kenwood Android Auto feature stinks: Don't bother trying to make that work.

 

Your OEM amp has set settings (crossovers, EQ, gains, etc.) to each speaker.
You HU is trying to do the same thing.
You've got one thing fighting another for a clean speaker output.
First thing I would do is bypass the amp..

 

Then, I noticed you have a PAC - TATO interface...

Note: BEFORE REMOVING THE FACTORY RADIO: BALANCE AND FADE IT TO THE CENTER, TURN THE RADIO UP TO AT LEAST 3/4 VOLUME, TURN THE RADIO OFF, TURN THE IGNITION OFF & THEN PROCEED WITH REMOVING THE FACTORY RADIO

Since you didn't install the Head Unit, you've no idea whether this was done correctly.

Which leads to the GAIN DIP switches on the PAC-TATO unit:

Link:
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=103

 

I think this is the bypass you need.
Maybe @shifty` would know for sure..

$34 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System

Amazon.com: Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System : Electronics

 

Wow, what a catch that was..

 

I agree, the next step is the bypass, I just ordered one about an hour ago. Next will be upgrading the front and back speakers.

Thanks for the tips, I will check out the manual for help.

I have no clue if the previous owner did it correctly. This could curtainly turn into a headache moving forward if it was not done.

 

Called it ... !

I'd try the advice above from @IIonPilgrimg and @1lowlife before getting into cabling just to see if it improves. Never trust a previous owner to install anything correctly. PAC products in general are usually solid, but we've seen others have problems with their amp adapters in the 1st gens.

 

@shifty` Yep you called.

Just to confirm, I should not hook up the bypass unitl I check the levels in the Kenwood?

If this specific PAC product is specially for connecting an aftermarket headunit with the JBL stock amp, would i need a different adapter to replace the PAC when I install the bypass adapter?

Unfortunetly I dont have access to the stock headunit and can't check if the previous owner did it correctly.

Any other ideas are welcomed.

 

You do what you want to do. Clearly, there is some tweaking you can do with the PAC to bump up the output. Find the PAC module with the dip switches on it and set all three to "ON" position, see if the audio is better. If it's still quiet when the volume is high, then it's not going to get any better, I'm thinking?

Apparently the JBL amp - which I had no idea about before - has internal stepping that happens in relationship with the JBL radio. This actually explains a problem someone else was having this past week with their system randomly getting volume stuck up and down. But you have no way to know whether the PO actually RTFM (most people don't read manuals, and that's lame), so you can't know if they installed this properly, and I don't know enough about that OEM JBL amp to know if there's a way to 'reset' it to the proper state now the old head unit is gone.

You have at least two adapters. You have the PAC 'TATO' unit, which adapts your head unit to the amp, and you have the PAC 'SWC' (Steering Wheel Control) unit to adapt the steering wheel controls.

If you remove the TATO, you either need to (A) reinstall an OEM JBL head unit, you have the option of touchscreen w/GPS or non-touchscreen w/o GPS, (B) install the Metra amp bypass in lieu of the TATO, or (C) swap the TATO for another amp bypass unit from another vendor, potentially Crux, noting there are others, there are even other PAC units you can use, but I'm not sure if they have the same weird caveat with turning volume up to 3/4 and centering/balancing before removal of stock head unit.

It's Christmas eve, so I don't have the time to sit down and read the entire manual to understand if you can run the SWC solo, without the TATO, so that's something that needs to be verified before you start yoinking shit out.

But basically, you have the PAC TATO + SWC modules adapting the Kenwood to use the OEM JBL amp + adapting steering wheel controls. That's one of a few ways to make all this work.

If it were me, and I knew I was replacing the speakers, I would do the following, AFTER I know whether you can use the SWC w/o the TATO:

• I'd set the dip switches as shown above, all three in the ON position to see if it brings up the volume to your liking. If too loud, I'd set the dip switch marked #3 to OFF (so ON, ON, OFF on 1, 2, 3 respectively) to cut the gain in half, is it better? If a little too low, set to ON, OFF, ON for 1, 2, 3 respectively and try again. If you can get it dialed in, great! It should sound better.
• If I absolutely cannot adapt out the PAC, you may want to take a minute and contact their support. Ask if there's anything they know you can do here. They should know their own product. Maybe they have better ideas. If not ...
• I'd pull the TATO and install the Metra amp bypass for 2004-2006 Tundra with JBL amps, and delete the TATO. I hope the PAC SWC will work without it. If not, I personally prefer the Axxess ASWC-1 unit, **BUT** when using with Kenwood/JVC radios, there's a special step, I can link up. There's also an accessory (not included) harness you can buy that makes installing that easier.
• It's important to note that, if using the amp bypass, again, the OEM JBL speakers are 2ohm drivers. So you should update the speakers at the same time as you install the amp bypass, to avoid potentially overloading the Kenwood head unit.

 

I just went through this.


It’s a nice head unit. Just do the amp bypass.

 

When you 'gain' a weak signal, distortion (THD) is added with the gain.

On that note, forgive me jacking the thread briefly...

OEM 2ohm speakers is something I hadn't picked up on. The head should be ok if you're sending signal to an amp via the RCA jacks, versus using speaker-level outputs. However, I perceive that's what you mean by 'bypass,' in which case most heads output only 25 watts @ 4ohms, and it ain't clean by any stretch. Drop the speakers to 2ohm and the head's internal amp will run hot... check the "Specs" to be sure it's stable there. (I checked: Page #104 - 22W x 4, it calls for 4-8 ohm speakers)

This '2ohm speakers' fact changes EVERYTHING about any further upgrades I may have considered in the future: My OEM JBL Head Unit is in the closet. I would add to that pile the OEM AMP and speakers, and replace amp with 2, 4-Channel Class AB @ 150W RMS per channel, plus a 2-Channel bridged Sub amp. Speaker wiring would be Monster or similar, as would be fused amp power. Then all would be 4ohm and the AB Class amps would run at 0.05% THD (or less), not 1%+ as happens with D Class amplifiers. A discerning ear can hear the difference, although one must do a thorough cost / benefit analysis. At 2/3 volume (which I never exceed), I hear a slight buzz from the OEM passenger front speaker, which I don't like. $1500 into the head and Maestro units and it would be easy to put another $1500 into amps and speakers. I like good clean tunes. But, ouch!

 

Did you also upgrade your speakers and did you have the PAC "TATO" installed?

 

That can add up really quickly. I’m hoping to not install an amp for the door speakers but for a sub in the future. I’m interested to hear how the kenwood would sound with the bypass and some club JBL speakers.

 

I will give this steps a try in the next couple of days.

‘Merry Christmas everyone

 

Yup, I had to give one of the younger members a gain lecture here late last year or earlier this year. OP hasn’t been super clear on what the quality issue is, but he clearly says “low output at high volume” is part of it. That specific symptom is common enough with the PAC unit that the instructions make a note of that exact case and tell you what to do. I’d do just that, as I typed out, starting with HU volume low and adjusting dips as needed.

Based on PAC’s direction, I suspect the quality problem is simple: Gain on the TATO, which is likely a glorified variable LOC which PAC is probably most notorious for in the industry as I’m sure you know. The gain/signal thru the TATO is too low, and when OP is cranking up the Kenwood to 3/4 volume, distortion is coming into the picture at that higher output from the HU.

I will say though, the JBL OEM drivers do have a rep for blowing surrounds, so it’s totally possible “perceived distortion” is at play here, by way of rattle-y, detached cones.

 

I once spent a small fortune on a JBL home audio surround sound system, and after ~ 8 years ALL of the speaker suspensions disintegrated. I looked into repair, but it cost more than it was worth. If I were OP the first thing I'd do is pop the door cards off and have a look. If not that then who knows, maybe the guy that installed the Kenwood so professionally also added some aftermarket speakers (can you say impedance mis-match?).

 

Yup, 100%

 

Yes, Merry Christmas all !

Out of the car radio game for some time, my Tundra is dragging me back in. I've learned enough to realize I want nothing to do with Class D amps. Their advantages are small size, efficiency, low heat. Everything else about them is negative for audiophiles.

Khunter... Keep the Kenwood. It's twice the head unit most are installing and the navigation is Garmin - good stuff. I'd rip out all the PAC gear and install an IDataLink Maestro (RR2) unit. It is a programmable data link, controls balance/fade, SWC's (programmable), sets gains, and has something no other harness brand does: vehicle data on-screen. $300 well spent. When it's time to change speakers, also replace the factory amp according to how many drivers you'll install, with up to two four channel amps and a sub amp (Class D, if you like). Snaking wire and room to mount amps under the seats will be the issues: Not a question of 'will it work?'

I have no experience with amp bypass kit(s). Sounds like it boils down to appropriate harness plugs so you can plug n play... useless to me. I'd snake my own RCA's / 16 ga speaker wires / terminate at quality 4 ohm cones. I've always leaned toward Infinity. They are crisp.

 

2 ohm amp driving 4 ohm speakers? Uh, Oh! No, No! Say, it ain't so! -- THAT would explain lack of volume entirely.

 

The amp bypass does 1 of 2 things.
1. It bypasses and eliminates the OEM amp and makes a direct connection to the speakers from the HU using OEM wiring with what he has going on.
2. It allows one to replace the OEM amp with an aftermarket amp using the OEM wiring from the amp to the speakers.
It also includes a remote on for the amp.
One would use RCAs from the HU to the amp, when installing an amp, and use the OEM wiring from the amp to the speakers.


I used one to bypass the amp in my 2014.
I ran 3 sets of RCAs to the amp.
As well ran my own speaker wire to the sub and front doors but used OEM wiring to the back doors because the rear door boot access was a mother fucker.

I also concur on ripping out the cheap shit and running an IDataLink Maestro.

I've enjoyed your input in this thread..

 

I well check that out tomorrow and message back. Good idea. Plus I can also check if they are the oem speakers if the are disintegrated.

Thank you for your input. Glad you’re getting back in the audio game. I’ll investigate the IDataLink Maestro (RR2) unit, sounds like a great deal but still at $300 it might have to wait.

 

You may want to take in a little more info on the iDatalink also. If you're not comfortable with plugging it into a computer and programming it, it may not be for you. There's a bit of info about using it in our trucks inside the steering wheel info dump thread which deals with adding/adapting steering wheel controls, steering wheel swaps, etc.: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...phone-controls-info-dump.131492/#post-3344432

It's a killer unit, but is potentially targetted at electronics/tech-savvy people.