Performance modifications

Your passive agressive-ness reminds me of my mother in law. Is that you, Grace?

 

You’re overly simplifying my post.

You 100% lose power at the same rate. By rate I mean % of power decline with every drop in ambient pressure due to elevation.

I already stated that a boosted vehicle indeed still makes more power than NA but it does not make the same power at elevation that it would at sea level.

10 Psi In Denver is not the same 10 psi elsewhere.

 

We stand in agreement.

 

ah....there's the texas

 

I was the one that stated ATRAC is 90% as useful as LSD.

LSD is not a locker, and a locker is not an LSD.

ATRAC is 0% useful as a locker.

You keep mincing my words. Slow down and read, cowboy.

 

listen pooper...i never said "LSD is not a locker, and a locker is not an LSD."

how about you slow down & read. Mr. Shit.

I was fairly f'ing clear. I guess MY education level is not the problem here.

mince words.....GTFOH


how's that for passive?

 

Ok, try and follow…

Wrong.

I never said you did. Those were literally my words, not yours. You’re quote of my post is the first factual thing you’ve stated.

Man did you make it past 3rd grade?

 

Stickers cause they give +5 hp per sticker and they're light
but on a real note regaining MPG isn't really a thing other than D-mod'ing.
1.) A good match gear set would be great to restore power lost form weight and slightly pick up MPG in lower band/stop and go.
2.) Would be a good flowing Cat back with what ever sound or loudness you can can/want to live with (would avoid a turn down unless you want to hear it 24/7 (a side note in bottom)
3.) A actual intake system I.E a TRD or equivalent of a sealed box using factory cold air pick up location, a TRD filter will do fine.
4.) A super charger is a great option also (if you need help I gladly do a write up or video call if send a spare one to me )

as for Carbon fiber, yes its light weight and can help shed a few pounds and clime back towards stock weight (which stock weight is what the stock MPG is rated at), wouldn't recommend it just for that with out considering the amount of work to maintain it, the increased engine noise due to less sound deadening and thickness and the extra safety hood pins as some super light weight hoods have thin layers holding hoop to the hood and with air ramming into the grill can cause it rip and the hood to fly open and smash the windshield . So having to deal with hood pins whether the stand up pin or sleek flush mount latches every time you want to service or check fluids is a thing.
would only recommend if all these boxes are checked:
1.) you love the look of carbon fiber
2.) the inconveniences of it don't bother you
3.) you have extra money that's falling out of your pockets
4.) you hand wash and detail you truck no less than once a week using at least 6 different products per outside and inside
5.) you don't mind the added care and products needed to maintain carbon fiber and understand in not taking care of it, it will look like trash in a year
6.) every few years you don't mind doing smoothing and having it re-top coated.

Side Note: My story about my exhaust I am the second owner of this Tundra (as of 3 years ago) it came with a unknown exhaust I honestly thought it was stock for a while and wanted to get a exhaust for it, It started making clunking noises and I noticed the tip would rock up into the bed denting it. I stuck it up on my lift and saw a long piece of tube attached to over axel that would act as a counter weight since there was only one hanger it would swing on I retightened the clamp clocking the tip correctly retighten the flange bolts and asked my self if some one really put that pipe on there as a resonator that also would on occasion smack the bed and burned through my air lines for my bags so I cut the Axel over portion out and flipped the piece for a turn down so I could use my air bags again for towing, I would buy a new cat back later the whole thing seemed like hot mess. I don't mind the mild loudness in the cab with a turn down for 80% of the time I'm a Audiophile so normally have music going but when I take trips with family the stereo's off to talk and going up long hills the loudness of drone bouncing off the road is annoying. So that's something to keep in mind about a Turn down, now if that exhaust wasn't cut with a hole in it and had the tip denting my bed and the long added pipe burning a hole in air line (good thine the gas lines are out of reach) I maybe wouldn't mind it...... But as of now I personally want to go with long headers and V band clamps with Magnaflow Cats and Muffler a exit out the bed side and also a electronically controlled valve for by passing muffler when I feel NasTundra'ie. I honestly thought this was a back yard no name exhaust weld up until I found out through this forum and looking on there site and it exactly matched and is the $800 8" budget system. I will *Redact* the said name But I will say "Don't drink the kool-aid pour your self a glass of Cognac" when it comes the Exhaust system especially since you drive it very day and will be the one living with it.

 

I’ve heard the stock intake is as good as it gets. Especially with the tundras and Tacoma’s. You have a 5.7 I believe so you should have some tuning options. Best thing to do considering price tag would be 5.29 gears and a tune. This is definitely subjective though. Magnaflow two chamber would be awesome too. Oh also you can do headers they will have a small yield though.

 

Carbon fiber is iffy especially on our trucks. Same for fiberglass hoods, unless you put pins on them there’s a good chance it could fly open. Also in a accident from what ive heard fiberglass can do some damage to the truck. All subjective but personally if I had the money main things I’d look into would be the s/c, gears, computer tune, and the exhaust is more for personal enjoyment

 

WOW! Quite the statement there.

 

There is a stock Resonator? where?

 

The OP has a 2012 - if memory serves me, I believe they still used a resonator (looked like a really small canister muffler) right after the tailpipe flange that connects to the muffler outlet.

 

ah got ya... not my 21...lol

 

So this a question not a statement... doesn't the Auto LSD turn off in 4 hi and 4lo? well unless we are only talking about 2 wheel drive trucks then it is the ATRAC System

 

No. Not you’re 21.

 

In simplest terms, VSC is for pavement and ATRAC is for dirt.

I have read that Auto LSD is only on certain 2WD models but I am fairly certain my 4x4 has it, as I have seen the light come on when in 2WD and 4HI.

Far as I know ATRAC works the same in all trucks. ATRAC can be turned off too but you have to push a button. It is generally advantageous to have it on in 4x4.

VSC likely goes a step further and keeps tabs on YAW and steering angle as it's more for high speed scenarios. I believe VSC turns off in 4x4.

Regardless, all these systems are really just different ways of controlling traction through the ABS module. The newer TRD Pros have more advanced tech like crawl control, etc.