Painting Brake Calipers

I wouldn’t paint the hub surface. You really don’t want any kind of high/lows on that surface since you want the wheel as tight to the hub as possible. I used G2 on my calipers and duplicolor rattle can caliper paint to paint the hats and other portions of the rotor. A year later and they come clean with just soap and water.

Wheels are Fuel Tech. I haven’t seen any other Tundra with these wheels...and I prefer it that way haha.

 

Thanks for the tips, I will hold off on painting that spot then. Do you think some fluid film would be safe to use on that contact area? I just want to not have to spend 10 minutes karate kicking the hell out of my tire just to get it off the hub.

 

Yes Sir I mitt wash it all the time to keep it looking good. My wife thinks I'm crazy.

 

I couldn't imagine the amount of work and time you have into that paint job.
For a 2010 living in Ohio that is just unreal. What paint did you use? I use fluid film but have a few areas I should prep and paint sometime soon. I have never seen a truck undercarriage as clean as yours, not even brand new.

 

I use Permatex anti-sieze for that area, and it works well. I take a rag and wipe both the wheel and truck surfaces with it, wiping off excess, and it's good to go. I also do the same for the lugs.

Our trucks suffer the same, dreaded, CT winter road "weather-weld", so I'm very familiar with the Karate kicking to remove wheels. Since I've been using the anti-sieze, it's been much easier.

 

It's actually John Deere chassis paint semi-gloss. My 86 Chevy when I did a frame off restoration I put base coat clear coat on everything the reassembled it. Even the fuel tank on that truck is base coat clear coat.

 

To be totally fair the truck never gets drove in Ohio Winters anymore.

 

Oh man thank you so much. I will be getting some permatex this week. You know my pain here in CT. I like your "weather weld" term, it's perfect.
I am replacing all of my suspension next week with a new set of coilovers and shocks, just OEM TRD sport suspension but an upgrade nonetheless for me. I started hitting all the nuts and bolts with PB blaster penetrating oil last week and every few days til the day of the job. I did that when I installed my dirtydeeds exhaust but still needed to cut one bolt. I'm hoping the suspension job goes nice and easy as far as weather welds go. I have been using fluid film which should help, pre treat with penetrating spray, I have air tools, breaker bars, cheater pipes, and a BFH so my fingers are crossed on this one. 40k miles on the stock suspension, all in CT, fluid filmed 2 of its 5 years of life

 

Your efforts certainly were worth it.

 

Thank you Sir.

 

You have some work ahead of you for sure, but sounds like you have been "stocking the shed" for when the time comes. There are not that many bolts so odds are with you, and the suspension bolts are big so they usually just need the breaker bar/pipe. The fact nothing has been touched is good, less contamination from having had it apart and exposed the the weather weld, lol. Use the Permatex on the suspension bolts too when you reassemble.

 

Thanks for the tips. I will let you know how it goes. I get so frustrated watching YouTube videos of people working on these tundras probably in Texas and Arizona lol. Never a rusted or seized bolt make it look so easy.
I once tried swapping my OEM coil overs that had bilsteins adjusted to 1.5"lift over to some old man emu coil overs with 1.6" lift. I could not get that lower shock mount bolt off despite using heat, beaker bar with a 4 foot pipe, and air impact. I finally gave up and a few months later I traded the stuck and sold the lift it. Those bolts had around 60k CT miles on them but never got sprayed with fluid film