P0894

The C1201 code is almost always thrown in conjunction to other engine codes. I just dealt w/this...

For me the truck would not shift past 4th... First code thrown up was 0983 Shift Solenoid "D" Control Circuit High. I cleared the code, but as soon as the truck tried to shift into 5th CIL came back on. Cleared code again, drove in S4 and no CIL on the way home. Started truck up the next day, drove in S4, and about 5 miles in CIL back on code 0983 again. Couldn't get in for a couple of days, so cleared code again and continued driving in S4... That evening (while in S4) full limp mode... Pulled codes again, and this time it was 0983 and C1201 (under the Anti-lock subsection in my code reader).

My research showed common issues being exterior electrical plugs/connection going into tranny are common to have moisture/corrosion or simply the actual 'D' solenoid going bad.

Anyhow, I got truck in; mechanic said he checked electrical connections, etc.; dropped pan and confirmed 'D' solenoid was bad; replaced solenoid all codes have been cleared and not returned for 5 days and several short trips.

 

Thanks for the insight. The code I am getting besides P2714 is P0894, “solenoid D stuck in off position.” I will start with changing out the transmission fluid and see if that removes both codes. If that doesn’t remove both codes I’ll do some testing on solenoid D.

 

I still have all 6 gears, no consistent CEL P2714 and C1201 are my most common ones. I do get the LSD, trac off and another flashing light. No loss of any power, I do lose ABS though, that's for sure, learned this by skidding clear across an intersection with an untimely left turner. Once I clear the codes they're gone for months at a time. It appears that when I posted this P0894 code it was that a one-time deal, and that's it.

 

Just a heads up (and again I'm no mechanic so take this w/a grain of salt), but some of my research indicated that sometimes bench testing the solenoids (electrically) would show they were good even though they were later determined to be faulty. However, when the solenoid was tested in the tranny it was able to be deemed faulty. I'm not sure if that meant they were able to test continuity, etc. in place or if they were able to try and 'actuate' it in place and listen for it to cycle

Good luck and I hope you find an easy fix!!!!

 

Copy that.... That's interesting. I wonder if it has something to do w/how the ECU and ABS Control Modules are interacting

 

Assuming so, like I stated, even shifting is better by just replacing the bypass hose on the intake side. I'm no mechanic nor technician also, but I've owned this truck for 12 years, but these are some of my observations about it. It's at 275k now.

 

Try replacing the transmission output speed sensor. It's cheap and easy and is what was causing me to have 4lo flashing and the same 0894 and 2714 codes (readiness only, no CEL) at the 220k mark. There's also a transmission input speed sensor a bit forward on the same side and it's the exact same part. Might as well do them both. Unplug the harness and unscrew 10mm bolt and pop straight out. There's a bit of resistance from the o-ring but it will come straight out.

 

I changed the transmission fluid a few days ago and cleared the codes. I took it for a test drive and it instantly shifted like normal. I’ve driven it maybe 50 miles since then and so far so good. Before the check engine light came on and gave me codes P2714 and P0894, I did get the 4Lo light flashing from time to time. If that happens again I will try changing out both output speed sensors.

 

After driving for a few days, all the lights came back on with added code of P0722 on top of the P0894 and P2714. I decided to pull the output speed sensor to test it with my multimeter. The ohm reading was to specifications so I ruled that issue out. As I was putting the speed sensor back in the transmission I noticed a wire that was corroded. With a little research I discovered it was the ground wire for the transmission. Could this be the issue?!?! It was a definite possibility. I ordered a new wire, replaced it and cleared the codes. One week later and so far so good.

 

How did it go?

I am getting error codes P0894 and P2714.
I have felt a little loss of power.
I have also felt that at a certain moment for no reason at all, it starts to vibrate as if I were driving over a speed bump.
The vibration, however, only happens when I drive it in "D", when I drive it in "S", that does not happen.

Mine is 2011 Toyota Tundra, 4x2, 4.7L, what steps do you recommend?

 

Replacing the ground wire on my transmission fixed all the issues.

 

Well, updating this at 288,500 shit got real, real fast. I took a trip to San Diego via Highway 15S. Did encounter a lot of heavy rain and some lakes. Assuming the ECU lost contact with some of the wheel sensors or I've broken something mechanically. Someone had mentioned a rear wheel bearing as I'm starting to eat up another rear brake rotor. P0894, P2757, P2714. It's been about 50k miles since I drained and filled and this prompted another one. This time I'll do it at 1,000 mile intervals to get all of it out. This time though I lost 5th and 6th gear on the highway. Was not on cruise control and noticed the Corolla I was passing started overtaking me, so I looked down and I was losing speed out of 65mph at full throttle. So I pulled out of 'D' to 'S' mode and hit 4th gear and regained speed quickly. It was more noticeable in uphill climbs. Flat lands more or less all appeared to be fine. At some point and time after I hit a puddle the light show started so I pulled off the highway and ran diagnoatics.

Jumped out in the Chula Vista area and I lost 1st gear. It was intermittent, just like losing a clutch or turbo lag. Had little to no power and then bang power was all there. I made a long stop assuming the torque converter was probably overheating and continued my travels and all gears were present and held nicely. 1st gear was gone in both D and S mode. On my return leg I encountered 0 rain and had no issue whatsoever. Once I encountered some wet pavement the light show came on, but 5th and 6th appeared to be present. Once I got home I lost Reverse... It struggled to back in to the driveway. Eitherway I've taken minor trips and no issues appear to be plaging it. I completed a drain and fill today and it appears to shift crispy smooth. So, for the next 2 months I will devote my time to replacing almost all the fluid. Fluid appeared to be Cherry Cola colored and did not smell burned. I was going to remove the transmission cooler, but appeared more trouble than it was worth, so I'll slave this way. Did the computer measure and it was just over.. Quite easy as it's one of the few things I fear, sticking random things in electrical components. I do believe the issue is the fluid is old and thining out causing slippage. Will continue to update as necessary will maybe help someone. Also been getting 17mpg on new NGK plugs when this issue arose, so definitely leaning on fluid change requirement.

 

Sorry guys this will be a book, but I didn't have alot of time to take pictures and pose parts for pictures.

I've got a lot going on right now, but I managed to divided time to get this done... Reading some other thread stated they broke some bolts and they left them like that, so I did the same... It's not leaking even after a short drive, so I'm not too worried about it right at this moment.

I've had persistent code for the Performance D stuck off, these last few weeks. Started a while ago so I drained and filled the pan and it went away. Moved and traveled 100s maybe 1000s of miles from NorCal to SoCal to Mexico, just the border, with no issues. This last trip to San Diego I lost 5th and 6th gear in heavy rain. At full stop lost 1st gear and got new codes stating transmission slipping and torque converter stuck off, had recently completed a drain and fill and level check where it drained a bit out... I reset the codes operated as normal, my view is if it was really slipping why can I engage 1-6 after I clear this, so I figured it was a sensor, the S4 shift solenoid popped into my mind. Once I got home I looked up the "local" stealership and dropped an order for it and the servo for the AC unit as it's playing games and summer a cometh.

I mispelled my vin and started a week long convo with them via email. While I looked up more info, I decided to change that order and requested 2 different solenoids, Performance D and torque converter. Since it's peaking right now might as well change it....

I've had a pan gasket and transmission filter since 2021 when I had decided to change the filter on it, glad I never did it, tbh. Eitherway to the main event. I broke 2 bolts towards the rear of the pan on either corner. Lubed them up with WD40 Specialist, this thing really works, tbh, felt this bad boy go all in on the 2nd turn, just let loose like butter. This is probably the messiest job, 2nd to the engine oil filter drain 3 tooth tip bs they got going. Removing the pan is a B, not gonna lie, I did contemplate smashing it, but while laying there with a cat paw and not wanting to damage it I decided to go with something softer, an Interior trim removal tool, slid that bad boy right in and was able to remove the pan like nothing... So if anyone is doing this, that's what I would suggest. I was draining the pan and I slightly moved the cardboard box I was layin on and lost about 1/2 a quart on the cardboard... Once the pan was out, lost about another quart as it rained from above. Removed the filter and dropped it in the other catchcan as it does have about a quart of fluid in there. Total drained out was about 6 quarts of fluid. All Cherry coke. At this point I'm about 10 quarts all in. 3 quart drain and fill, added 1 more quart due to the torque converter issue, it did stop that code and only left the P2714, with this I added a whole case and it seems to shift silky smooth, only 1 drive, 2 cycles made a stop and turned it off. I'll add some occular pleasure below... Not all was captured.
No forbiden glitter here


Molded pan gasket, took me a minute to figure it out... and filter



Here are some shitty pics on the solenoids. I struggled to remove the harness so I destroyed the retainer on both of them..




At this point I had to rush everything back together as my wife and older kid were up, so I had to go and care for them... The last image is a jug of cherry coke. My heart sank when that 1st dowel retainer fell out, once i figured that out it was all good. All in took about 2 hours start to finish, main hold ups are dropping the pan and removing both harnesses, they're hard af.

 

My mpgs have increased by 3 in about a month. I'm avereraging between 16-18mpg, highway and local traffic mix. Additionally I swapped out my seized rear passenger side caliper and it was cooking that wheel and tire, but that's been over the last 3 days, Googling p2714 causes a drop in mpg. I will do a drain and fill, I think I have 2 more left, since I still have a case of fluid left. I don't have any codes so far its smooth sailing

 

It's been a year and all codes have been back and are gone. Yes all codrs on both threads, exact same ones.

Did a drain and fill of 4.5 quarts of Royal purple Max ATF with oil cooler pinned.. back in early January. Made a trip to San Diego, and everthing was good on the way there. On the way back, I stopped in the San Bernardino area, under heavy traffic It did start slipping. I was following an 18 wheeler and was on and off the gas constantly. Lost 1st gear mainly, once I stopped and got off I got a strong smell of burned ATF, more specifically the RP ATF smell. This prompted me to do a 2nd drain and fill.

Following with a 2nd drain and fill this weekend, but only 3 quarts, cuz I couldn't pin the cooler, cuz my dumbass used the ramps for my SC for tag team oil changes. Codes haven't been back. My shadetree experience is that oil is dirty. No, burned smell this time.

Transmission shifts feel tight and good. I'm buying a quart a paycheck so I have some oil on hand for the next oil change.