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Overheated - Fixed :)

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Shellback, Sep 5, 2019.

  1. Sep 12, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #31
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Remember when installing the thermostat the circled part goes on top. Is that what you did? Maybe you got a faulty "new" thermostat? Stranger things have happened.


    upload_2019-9-12_12-20-49.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
  2. Sep 12, 2019 at 1:56 PM
    #32
    Shellback

    Shellback [OP] New Member

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    Peeling door window trim.
    Yep. Double checked the little nipple thingy was on the top. I also used a Toyota t-stat. I had also purchased a duralast or whatever brand Autozone sold me and it did not have the little nipple. And the OEM was only a few $ more via Amazon.
     
  3. Sep 13, 2019 at 9:40 AM
    #33
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN Privileged

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    Did you idle the truck with the rad cap off to get the air out? Should see the coolant start flowing when up to Temp as thermostats open.
     
  4. Sep 13, 2019 at 10:52 AM
    #34
    PCJ

    PCJ New Member

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    If your heater is blowing cold it means you have an air pocket. The radiator needs to be the highest part of the cooling system. If you have an angled driveway park with the front of the vehicle facing up it. Or put some blocks under the front tires or you could buy a special funnel set up that fits inplace of the radiator cap to raise the effective level of the radiator. This information I learned from my son who is a Toyota technician.
     
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  5. Sep 13, 2019 at 10:54 AM
    #35
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    If it ends up not being an air bubble in your system. It’s probably the water pump
     
  6. Sep 13, 2019 at 11:00 AM
    #36
    PCJ

    PCJ New Member

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    Water pumps will leak water when a seal fails but they won't stop circulating water.
     
    Aerindel likes this.
  7. Sep 13, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #37
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    He’s already replaced everything else. What else could it be if it’s not an air pocket. Possibly a bad thermostat staying closed?
    That lower hose should be getting warm. I noticed quite a few people said the lower hose should be cool. But it should not, it should be warm at least if the engine is up to temperature. The returning water will never be cold LOL. I would do as you said and try the bleeding process again on a slope. Squeezing the upper radiator hose, you should feel a rush of water if the pump is working properly when you release the hose.
     
  8. Sep 13, 2019 at 3:51 PM
    #38
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Headgasket. Which is why I strongly recommended testing for that before doing any work.
     
    15whtrd[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Sep 13, 2019 at 4:27 PM
    #39
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    Squeeze your hose...lol. Has anyone mentioned coolant temperature sensor yet? I'd remove thermostat and run the engine. Get a $20 IR thermometer from Home depot and tell us the temperature of the upper hose and lower hose. The heater temp is a red herring, heater core can be clogged, heater feed or return lines clogged, heater control valve could be kaput also which is why you have cool heater sensation. I know green antifreeze plus dex-cool in GM created a nasty mush that overheated many a GM in the late 90's early 2000's. Anyone know if Toyota pink plus green creates a similar abomination?
     
    15whtrd[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Sep 14, 2019 at 3:53 PM
    #40
    Shellback

    Shellback [OP] New Member

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    Peeling door window trim.
    I'm embarrassed to say, but I cant find the block bleeder :rolleyes:
    Is it blocked by the transfer case?
     
  11. Sep 15, 2019 at 5:27 AM
    #41
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Are you talking about the drain plugs I referenced in my picture? If so, there are two. One on each side of the engine, towards the back. Look closer at the picture and you'll notice they are above the oil pan. That should help you narrow it down. The driver side was harder to reach for some reason.

    Here is a zoomed out picture that might help for the passenger side.

    Capture+_2019-09-15-08-24-38.jpg
     
    TX-TRD1stGEN likes this.
  12. Sep 17, 2019 at 3:08 PM
    #42
    Shellback

    Shellback [OP] New Member

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    Peeling door window trim.
    Thank you to everyone who pointed me in the right direction and gave me tips.
    Must've been air-bound. I jacked up the front, plus it was already on an incline, and it she took 1 and 1/3 more of the pink stuff. I also suspect the T-stat was the culprit.
    I will tackle the water pump and timing belt later this year. Just wanted to get her back on her feet.
    Thanks again!
     
    TX-TRD1stGEN and bmf4069 like this.

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