One thing after another

What does it idle at with intake hose removed? If removing the intake hose improves it, it sounds like it could be a MAF issue.

 

If I take off the hose completely the engine will die, if I just place it around the throttle body the idle will pick up, if I leave a gap in the hose to throttle body it get to a low idle but it’s rough and chuggy

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHsfAXog-FI&ab_channel=SchrodingersBox

 

That video told me nothing I haven’t already done! And it sucked cause I had to have my son sign for me cause im deaf

 

Is that TP % OK? Shouldn't it be low single digits at idle?

 

Nah man, it's the fuel filter, bet. 100%
I mean it couldn't be the MAF when it just thinks it's getting force fed twice the air right... I mean the ecm wouldn't try to feed twice the fuel to reach 14.7:1 A/F ratio... would it???? And if a guy say, uhh took away some of that air being metered by letting air in post MAF, that wouldn't lower fuel delivery and slow the rpm down would it?

 

TP % of 16 is ok when speaking of a normal operating system but that was a number without an RPM reading also at that point in time. For instance, at idle The FSM for 1st Gen shows 8-20 %. Ciphering anything from the scan results that were shown are meaningless if for no other reason than what OP said earlier about his bucking bronco....."Right now it idles up and down goes up to about 4500 then down to 1500 then back up then down to zero then back up then back to 2800".

As @KNABORES asked earlier about the MAF, it may indeed have an issue given the high number shown but that's a head scratcher and hard to focus on until it's back to purring like a kitten.

This is my normal for my 04 DC 2UZ, FWIW....



This is from FSM 2UZ normal....



Hopefully when his buddy brings him his throttle body that he mentioned earlier, perhaps they can figure certain things out....TPS issue, APPS issue ???...etc

This issue makes it semi difficult to figure out online given extenuating circumstances...."truck previous to this ran like a kitten with no codes"

Personally I would unplug the APPS, let it limp along until they figure out what's on first and who's on second.

 

Oh damn. That's pretty high. I guess on a cold start it would make sense to allow a higher idle. I was kinda taking a shot in the dark based off my Crown vic. It sits around 7%.

 

He has a hell of a channel but will make your brain swell....and I'm ok with that !!

 

Dudes super anoying to listen to for very long, but explains things really well. A doctor by trade, and very analytical, which I like... give me details.

 

Brand new fuel filter. Getting a MAF sensor today. I guess I’m glad I can’t hear cause even my son said he talked super annoying like if a rat could talk.

 

The fuel filter was just a joke, a standing joke around here because it's NEVER the fuel filter.
I think the OEM maf is Hitachi???
If you didn't get that you may still have issues. I was going to say something but figured you would know.
Are you really deaf, or did you just have your son watch it and he told you it was useless info?

 

Yes it’s a hitachi. Here are some other pictures of the hoses. I think I have them all hooked where they need to go and in the right spot

 

I need to get off my ass and do all the hoses in my truck. What'd you use for brand/diameter on the vast majority of those hoses? And is it possible any were too large/too small/maybe have nicks or cuts?

 

Fuel line is NOT vacuum hose. It will flatten faster than overcooked penne! (I can tell you how I know this...)

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2028#post-3527032

 

Have you checked the pleets in your intake snorkel for cracks/splits? That (new?)MAF reading looks super low now, especially at almost 1900rpm.
Prize for the most colorful engine bay I've seen on here... and I'm not hating on it
One thing with all those reading is your system was still in Open Loop, meaning the ECM was waiting for the engine to fully warm up before it starts taking in/and adjusting for sensor data. Make sure it will eventually go closed loop when 180-190 deg on the ECT reading.
Are your O2 sensors fluctuating like they should be? Sensor 1s on both banks should fluctuate and sensor 2s should remain relatively flat. But for the pics you posted O2s readings aren't relevant to how it's running because that data isn't being used (open loop - running a pre programed set of parameters until the engine reaches operating temp).
This is my understanding, anyone chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

 

W666 well that’s a reinforced hose and it’s been on there for several years now. It doesn’t go flatter than pasta. Thank you for your concern though

 

Yes I’m really deaf! I watched the chart but my son watched it along with me BroHon.

 

That sucks, I just tried to imagine working on my truck with NO audible input... I'd feel like a one legged man in an ass kicking contest. Hat tip for you not letting it limit you.
When you are watching a YouTube vid you can turn on CC obviously, but then to have time to read the text you can slow the video down.
I've done it before for poor audio videos/or people talking too fast where I couldn't understand... my hearing isn't the greatest.

If you still have the code P0120 you probably wont get movement on the throttle plate until the last bit of pedal travel, when the control becomes and actual mechanical movement, AKA limp mode. But Ide still focus on the P0120 because the ECM doesn't lie, it doesn't like something there specifically.

Odd thing is how your MAF went from High, to barley registering (@ 1889 rpm!) with the new one. Was the intake ajar letting in unmetered air when you took that photo of your OBD2 readings? Are you running stock air filter/inlet?

One thing I wish I had not done when I was going through mine was mess with/adjust/replace so many things... Because it added so many more possible variables.
The truck was totally new to me though. I had NO CODES and was in the dark as to wth was wrong (stalling issue).
I wish I had been a part of this community back then (21), sure would have saved me money, time, and headaches.

Keep asking questions and posting results here, you will get it figured out.

 

I mostly work by feel/vibration. I can feel ticks and vibrations that are not normal. I feel through my foot or by touch. I mainly go by what my son says. He really quite good at signing me what the truck is doing or describing how the truck sounds.

yes the truck only has response at the last bit of peddle travel. All the air filter and tubing is stock.

I’m going to put my friends throttle body on today and use his TPS cable, to see if maybe I screwed up there. But I’m at a loss.

 

Did you ever try removing the TPS (new one) and turning the dial in there by hand to see if it registered in live data on your OBD2 reader... just spitballing

 

Since the problem code is TPS, I would get the FSM and use the information within to test the wiring, the sensor, and the throttle body. A code can mean sensor failure, but it can also signal part failure (its primary job). Could be a bum throttle body. Could still be the wiring as well since the old connector broke off and had to be spliced.

 

I’ve tried removing the tps, adjusting the TPs, and checking live data and its reports every move. The engine will respond to the movement etc. my friends throttle body is factory and the screws are still painted with the white paint, so it is factory set. I even drove the truck around the block to get it warmed up and still no change in the code reader. May be it’s my crappy reader?

 

Could my ecu be faulty?

 

funny you should say that because that's exactly what my problem was. A junkyard unit for $125 and it was running . I wasn't going to say it and lead you down that path because you have a code. I had no codes, and I had been holding off on that conclusion because I thought it would be $600-800. Unlike you, my truck didn't unexplainably go from running great to hardly running while it was in my possession. It had sat unused for about 6years though. I spent a TON of money I didn't have to by firing the parts cannon, and muddied the whole process with too many changes. I had however taken the ECM out and examined it thoroughly, I mean opened it right up and examined the board for anything... it and all the connections were pristine looking. My truck was in an accident and I think there was a electrical short/surge that killed it. One thing to be aware of is the Cowl leaks our trucks are prone to. One is right above the ECM, and water can get to it. Investigating that is free. I would pursue that code first.

My Cowl surgery, leak fix
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1971#post-3572499

 

I’m thinking could a shorted ECU cause the throttle body motor or tps not function properly and then throw a code like the P0120?

 

Or your wiring gone bad with a poor, corroded connection. You can certain pull your ECU and do a visual check for cracked solder joints.

 

Uhhh, I mean if your buddy has the same exact year truck and the ECMs are identical, and he's game, swap it over and find out? Keep in mind you could inadvertently brick his!!
*Disclaimer-Don't Do It*
How did that intake get cracked? Never heard of it, that's pretty beefy aluminum. Besides that, anything else traumatic happen to the truck... overheating, submersed in water, electrical issues, prior to your current problems?

 

Nope nothing traumatic bought it in California brand new and then drove it from NorCal to Illinois. I took out all the interior to install sound deadening and to replace the heater core and a/c condenser. Along with all the hvac cables. I also had a leak in the high brake light. It’s my son’s truck and I installed a mono amp and a 4 Chanel amp, along with two JL audio 8” subs under the back seat passenger. I reinstalled the firewall and then installed the big seven wire kit, a new starter, a high output alternator. Installed two new knock sensors. The friends throttle body didn’t change anything. I still have code P0120. We reinstalled the throttle body on his truck and it purred. No codes thrown. I’m at a wits end