Ok hate me for this..oil filter cap replacement

Ugh! That was a waste of $40. Thank you.

 

Good deal, thanks

 

I replaced the short internal cylinder with a long one. My oil filter was fine, it hadn’t collapsed at all (had about 1,000 miles on it). It would have been a boring picture…so no picture. Now I can sleep better at night knowing my oil filter doesn’t look like a raisin.

 

I am very thankful for this post! I switched to the metal housing this past weekend and didn't realize I had to swap the cylinder. I just fixed it and only needed about 1/2 quart of oil.

 

The clown that changed my oil whom I trusted like an idiot did this very deed to my truck. It was found during the next oil change, collapsed of course. The truck didn't run any different or run hot but my temper certainly did.
The truck has a bypass valve that engages to prevent starvation, but wow was I pissed at myself for trusting a hole in wall oil service center.

 

There's a readily available insurance product that protects you/folks from this.

 

I think the plastic ones are at least as durable as the metal. I have found that the metal ones are much easier to install.

 

Fella's if you buy good AMSOIL filters you don't really need that stem pipe. The only thing it does is keep it straight. OE Toyota filters don't have metal ends or O-rings and if they collapse they are stopped up. You just have to be smarter than the filter is

 

Great post

 

Methinks the "stem pipe" is an integral component of the bypass valve. I strenuously recommend it's inclusion.

 

I can concurr with you from first hand experience that this is referred to by the book as a "pick up tube", and I lost 50% of my pressure when the aspiring tech discarded it.
While it doesnt throw a code or fire any dash light, the resulting operation of the 5.7 under the lowered oil pressure begins to boil away your coolant at an advanced rate due to the added friction The end result is an overheated engine. I sadly reassert that unfortunately this is first hand experience.
There was a gent on here who commented of an insurance that exists which protects the consumer from frivolous services marketed as an expertise when it's clearly a bunch of unsupervised, likely stoned teenagers with adjustable wrenches multitasking with cell phones. I would like to hear more of this sort of insurance. Thx for any/all opinions on the matter.

 

I'm not trying to single out anything or anyone. The valve is still in place and functionable. The base is still there. The tube has 4 dimples that keep it attached to the valve base. The stem itself is all that is removed. Look closely at it and you will see what I'm talking about

 

https://youtu.be/G_vl2AYe7Yg


11min mark

 

This has all come up before and nothing has changed. I would never take a chance with my 5.7 for any reason. I worked around dealerships and different shops long enough to know if their lips are moving they are either lying or don't know what they are talking about

 

Adjustable wrenches? Try impact drivers.

 

If this is all about the money take it where you will and get what you get. If it's not about the money learn to do it yourself and buy the best. People that don't take any care of their stuff are not going to be concerned about yours

 

Question about the oil bypass: I change my own oil and filter (Amsoil for both) and have swapped to the metal filter housing replacing the center tube to the longer stock version. No leaks or anything ever. I recently went out of town for a week and she sat in the driveway the entire time with no warm ups......it's 40 degrees or so here in Houston, TX so nothing crazy. I cranked her up this morning and I now have an oil leak around what I think I've figured out to be the oil bypass plug mentioned in this thread and a few others. It's a 22mm bolt head right next to the oil filter housing. I can't find anything on torque spec's and I've NEVER touched it. Not sure if the sitting for longer than normal "freed" it up a bit so it started leaking or what. I'm a little paranoid that I had a blockage, oil started flowing, and that created a leak. I think the safest thing to do is remove and replace the oil filter so I can get a gander at as much of the guts of that little system as possible. I double checked the torque on the filter plug (9 lb/ft) and filter housing (18 lb/ft) and they were fine. The bypass plug bolt (if that's what it is) is also right at 18 lb/ft.

Side note - I only noticed the leak after I returned from a drive this morning and the driveway had a spot. I immediately pulled the skid plate and could see where the oil trail led. I never actually saw oil coming from around the plug. I've ran the truck while observing and see no leaks.

Hoping someone has a little more insight into it all than what I can currently find online.

Thanks in advance!!

 

Agree that the Amsoil and Toyota TRD filters are leaps and bounds better than the OEM made of paper/wood pulp but I'd still make sure you have the correct stem pipe in the housing just to keep things as redundant and as safe as possible.

 

There are only two places it can leak, and both have O-rings. Drop it back off and look everything over good. It is possible to start the housing to where the stem pipe is off center bending the end of the stem pipe and not allowing the housing to fully seat. It will only cost you a little oil and your time. When you put it back together clean everything up good and leave the skid pan off until your positive it's not leaking. If in fact you did bend the stem pipe message me and I'll tell you how to fix it

 

Great video! Thank you for sharing. Guy definitely knows his stuff!

 

In that video, he says if your standpipe falls off, it's junk. So how are we supposed to move the standpipe from the plastic to the metal housing that doesn't come with one?

 

That's a BIG assumption in 2024

 

You don't. Just keep using the plastic housing because there is nothing wrong with it.

 

seems like alot of paranoia to me. I mean yeah I could have replaced my plastic one with a new one. mine cracked taking off because the dealer put it on way to tight. I ended up getting the metal and moving the pipe over.
Pretty easy to do and not sure how u could mess it up

 

The only issues I've seen with the plastic one is that some ass hat over tightens it. I've had them come in where the customer over tighten and I've had to use an impact to remove then and they still haven't broken. It's just not an issue. Member have posted links on Amazon for the metal "Toyota" ones but most of those are a counterfeit part. You're better off leaving well enough alone. The old saying, don't f#uck with something that's not broke.

 

I've looked at the aluminum one.......but I'm paranoid about accidently cross threading the aluminum cap into the oil filter housing and causing myself a lot of heartache.

 

I can say for a fact that had a crack taking it off. and had the correct tool. not saying it is common and I would not normally have changed or even thought about if that didn't happen to me

 

Someone over did it when tightening. They only have to be snug. Once the O ring is in contact, tightening super tight does nothing.

 

If you mean removing the pipe on a plastic housing and transferring to a metal housing then here starting @ 4 minute mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nNBAnOJbCM&ab_channel=TwistedJake

 

I do all my oil changes anyway ezcept for the free 1 they did. but was just nervous if i ever brought it back they would do it again