Oil change

Yup its not even a pride/paranoia thing to change it on your own it's sensible time mgmt especially with this fumoto installed and easy ramps. Drain, do some house chores for an hour, then come back and fill. Picked up a buncha oem filters...

 

Hi all! Will it fit with the cat shield and skid plate on? Thanks for any replies smileytn1

 

The fumoto valve? Yes. I have a millercat shield, valve is nowhere near it

 

Get the Fumoto with the long drain nipple. The drain hose stays on better and there is plenty of room and clearance.

F133N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve With M12-1.25 (fumotousa.com)

 

Yes, I have Talons Garage skid plate on mine with fumoto valve

 

My dealer let me change mine at 5k intervals, not that it did any good, the truck still threw a bearing. At this point I believe it was on the crankshaft but repair is ongoing so I'm not 100% on that. I also wish I had insisted on a 1k mile oil change for the 1st one

 

Can u put it on
3.4 I-Force engine failures, so they can track it if you haven’t already

 

You already had your oil changed every 5k miles, that's about 5 oil changes before engine blew up. An extra oil change at 1k miles wouldn't have helped. If it's meant to be, it's meant to be. At least you saved money and didn't pay for the extra 1k oil change.

 

Kap1 I get what your saying. I've never had a new truck, car etc blow an engine so I'm playing Monday morning quarterback. Idk what else I could have done different. I am very disappointed that a new Toyota would be so unreliable like that, I expected more and I'm nervous about even keeping it. In retrospect I should have known better then to get a 1st year production vehicle, ESPECIALLY during covid !! My previous vehicle , a f150 was giving me both transmission AND engine problems and that was also bought new...

 

Sorry to hear... I'm there with you as well, August 2022 build. 11k miles

 

Thank you just ordered it!

 

So I’m getting close to doing my first 5k change. I haven’t removed the skid plate yet, but am all about minimizing the mess that so many newer vehicles make with where the locate drain plugs. I don’t want to install a valve, but am curious what the hose here connects to?

 

Just below the oil filter

 

I think I see. So it’s just to drain the oil from the little catch basin under the filter and not from the pan?

 

No, it's just for not making a mess when changing the filter.

You still have to drain the oil from the pan

 

I thought I'd go ahead and change my oil and filter one more time before my engine blows up

I added the short piece of hose on the filter catch basin and WOW! what a huge improvement. No more oil dripping from everywhere on the engine cross member!

 

I’m sure the motors fine. If you didn’t have chunks and glitter all in your drain pan. Drive it and enjoy look at it this way you could have bought a ford and been mentally numb to recalls as they are like a monthly subscription.

 

Did my oil change yesterday. I let dealer do the 10,000 miles (16,000 kms) change and change myself at every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms).

To my surprise, I measured 8.6L more than 9 quarts of drained oil!!! IS MY DEALER NUTS!? According to the spec, it takes 7.3 liters (7.7 quarts). So dealer added 1.5 Quarts of extra oil...

Can this damage my engine? (it is getting replaced, but I want to keep it at least for few more years before replacing with a new motor.)

 

I’m going set up this way on next oil change!!!

 

Just change the oil regularly like 5-8k. If you really want to protect the main bearings go to 0w-30 weight . Hard to see if the main cause of engine failures was machining debris, extended oil drain intervals, or thin 20 weight oils, or defective bearings.

 

Did your oil smell like gas? Oil analysis reports have shown a bunch of fuel making its way into the oil which would result in elevated levels… 1.5 quarts seems way excessive but there have been reports showing fuel dilution in excess of 5%.

 

That is a very interesting point! I can send it for analysis...