Oil change at 5K or 10K?

5000k whether I need it or not.

 

proper OCI care will affect how it performs longterm, we aren't talking 1k-200k miles, we are talking the 300k+ miles. Even if you don't keep your vehicle for that length of time, the person you sell it to will appreciate it. Better products to that 2nd owner, creates a stronger brand.

 

5,000,000 miles? You're quite confident in your truck.

 

that's the joke

 

I thought I felt something fly over my head.

 

3k

 

8000km (5k miles) or 6months

 

$100.....can't afford not too.

 

Another reason to aim for 5k? If you miss it, like I just did ... it's a 6500 mile change instead of a 11500 mile change.

 

Thank you to the many of you who actually answered my question. To those of you who simply want to be sarcastic and what not, just, nevermind.

 

best bet is to change it at your first 1k to clear out all of the break in oil and 5k after that. I personally do 3k/6mo. because that’s what I was taught and my oil is always good regardless of how I drive. I tow a lot and do short trips outside of my commute to work on the freeway. But 5k seems like it works well for others. 10k is not for me

 

When I picked up my plates the lady said she had made my appointment in May for my 5000 oil change. So, my dealer at least is not adhering to that 10,000 spec. Not that I will even have 5000 miles by then. And not that I will wait that long for my first change anyway. I said we'll see, I usually do this work myself. She said, but it's free. I said I like doing this stuff, so don't count on seeing me. LOL.

 

(huge, squeazy bear hugs)

 

you came to the internet for opinions when the facts already exist, then got bothered by some of the opinions. On a topic that 10x10 threads already exist beating this topic to death. When it’s obvious that changing your oil sooner is better than later.

 

If you have participated in automotive forums for any length of time you know it won't be the last, either. This particular horse will be slain and beaten 100 times. At least. Best not to get too upset with it.

 

PAO base does not clean engine at all. You can throw in some washing agents and dispersants, but PAO does not hold additives neither. So a good PAO-based synthetic oil comes blended with around 30% of conventional oil (highly refined, but still pumped out of Earth) that holds those additives well. Conventional oil is known for cooking badly in turbo engines.

Esters based oil is better in cleaning (attaches to metal stronger than most of contaminants), but it degrades back to water. It is also very expensive. No one sells a pure ester automotive engine oil. It again comes as a mix of PAO, conventional oil and a bit of esters.

Here's an example of a low pressure turbo engine that spent all its life (220k miles, 15 years) in New England using synthetic oils only. 5w30 Castrol every 10k miles for the first 4 (warranty) + 3 (certified pre-owned) years done by the dealer, then 5w30 Amsoil Signature and 5w40-10w40 Red Line every 5k till the end done by me. I also have flushed the oil system a few times with Seafoam, BG109 and Marvel Mystery through the engine's life.

As you can see, even very expensive boutique synthetic oil cooked well, in "cold" New England. Basically, it cooked down to carbon everywhere where there's no sufficient oil flow. 5k OCI was not a panacea. Turbo engine will always cook oil. Toyota will not figure it out. No one will. I've seen the same picture developing in my other 3 turbo engines, and didn't see it in the same base engine that runs without a turbo.

By the way, the engine pictured is weaker than V35A and runs cooler.

 

"facts" tend to be relative anymore.

 

Had you used AmsLine John Handcock series or Redsoil Übermensche there'd be zero deposits or wear on that Vulva.

 

Like The Car Car Nut implied, oil analysis gives no insight into rings that are gumming up. When you begin to see aluminum, etc. levels starting to creep up, it's too late.

 

Unfortunately, switching to 5K oil changes much later in an engine's life doesn't necessarily overcome the previous 10K change history. What's happened has happened and the previous "coking" of turbo bearings and gummy ring land deposits will tend to remain. The hope is that now, it won't get worse.

 

Less than a year before the engine blew out an exhaust valve, I dropped the pan and thoroughly cleaned it. Dropped it again to knock the pistons out and that's what I found. It went from this to that:





It still burns. Can clearly see how new carbon deposits formed in spots where oil gets to occasionally, but not flowing. Red Line 10w40 - one of the most expensive synthetic oils available on the market.

 

I am not bothered by opinions. I am bothered by people finding the need to give sarcastic remarks when you could have, 1) simply not said anything at all, or 2) just answered the question with sarcasm.

 

Turbos are murder on oil.

My first Audi came factory filled with Mobil1. At that time, Audi included maintenance, but @10K intervals and with conventional oil. I paid the upcharge for Mobil1 and changed it at 5K, 15K, etc. intervals on my nickel.

Audi got to replace many turbos on their "nickel" and they also got to replace valve covers with their integral PVC plumbing, except mine. They also revised oil changes from conventional oil to synthetic.

My Audi's valve cover typically looked like your oil pan, but no "gunk" or heavy deposits. I think it's something that you have to get used to with turbos.

If Turbos are murder on oil, air cooled engines are worse yet with their temperature variations. Red Line is the best I've found in that application.

 

5k.

 

How late is too late? At 50K on my tundra and 60K on wife Rav4 are they FUBAR?

 

Now you're just being sassy.

 

Most of large displacement natural aspiration engines with good cooling in engine compartment don't break down oil that easily. Your 3UR-FE is naturally less dirty than V35A will be at the same 50k miles.

 

Maybe don’t expect serious answers to a question that has been beaten to death on multiple threads already that you were too lazy to read because they are “40-100 pages deep”.

 

I wouldn't worry too much. If you want to change oil more frequently, it's certainly not going to hurt.

 

I wouldn't fret too much...










... unless you neglected to change the break-in oil within the first 6 miles. If you didn't then you'll probably be investigating the new inspection ports in your block at around 75K miles.