OEM Steering rack alternative

I'm needing to replace my steering rack and have not had any luck with finding an oem replacement. I've probably placed 9 orders that have all been cancelled because there's a nationwide backorder with no ETA.

I wondered if anyone has tried FR33 Lance Fab? They're claiming rebuilt oem racks and he seems to be a 1st gen guy.
https://fr33lancefab.com/products/first-gen-tundra-sequoia-steering-rack

Any other options I'm not thinking of?

 

My dealer was able to locate a Toyota remanufactured steering rack. That was last december - new racks were not available then either. So you might want to ask if the dealer can locate a remanufactured unit. Still pricey, and the warranty sucked at only one year, but I didn't have an option.

 

I'm pretty sure what's on there now is a reman rack from the dealer (could be aftermarket, but was dealer installed) and that's what needs to be replaced.

 

My local dealer told me that new steering racks are on backorder with 200+ orders pending at their location. However they have reman available on-hand ready for pick up.

But on their same website you can only buy a new one and the part number for reman is shown as being discontinued. Toyota part price for reman was $453.60 + $250 core fee.

A local offroad/toyota shop quoted me $640 for removal, rebuild and install. The shop mentioned that some remanufactured racks are have issues, and that is was best to get your OEM rebuild or get a new one form toyota. Basically avoid reman.

i have seen ppl on here saying the Detroit axle rack has been good, must follow the instructions to avoid leaks. I have also been looking at the Fr33lancefab rack.

I just need a push and a shove in the right direction. I already bought new OEM outer tie rods.

 

Ya from what I've gathered, it seems best to stay away from reman. Like I said, I think that's what I have now that failed within 8 months. My thinking with Fr33 lance Fab is that maybe a smaller operation would have better QC and customer service if there's an issue.

 

This is another option. Whatever you do, don't use the Rack Doctor. Bad reviews.

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/pa...g-toyota-parts/toyota-rebuild-a-rack-service/

 

Not a bad option. I just can't do 2 weeks without since it's my daily driver.

 

It may be a gamble but I replace mine with an oem junkyard one two years ago. I think it was ~$60. Still leak free after 30,000km.

 

I think I might have to look into this. Seems like a good OEM option with a low cost if it fails.

 

Not only that, but:

• You should be able to tell if the used rack is leaking before pulling
• It's a great opportunity to update your rack bushings
• You'll have your OEM ready for rebuild after, and can ship anywhere you want

Downside is, you'll definitely be doing this job again at some point. You'll have the process down pat by the time you get there though.

 

Try cvjreman.com - Email them for Steering Rack availability. If they have them in stock you'll have them in 2-3 days. Just used them for another vehicle recently for both the steering rack and CV axles.

 

Exactly, all good points. I'm probably not going to pull it myself, closest pick/pull is 100 miles away. I think there's an auto recycler that I can go through that has a 30 day warranty.
I'm going to reach out to CVJ too and see what that option looks like.

 

I may have found a new OEM rack from a dealer. Placed the order and was told its coming from their warehouse. We'll see if that ends up being true. Next step will be a used rack for cheap.
CVJ wasn't too terrible, but since I think my rack was either aftermarket or reman I don't think I can get my core charge back which is $175.
CVJ quoted $486 + core($175) and shipping ($60-$90) one way.

 

Can you add the dealership you ordered from once yours ships?

 

Will do. I’m gonna wait to make sure it actually does ship. Partly because I’m feeling superstitious (normally I’m not at all) about it actually being in stock.

 

That rack ship yet?

 

Nope. This morning I just got an email about it being backordered for 2-3 weeks, but could be longer.
I cancelled the order and going to try a used one.

 

I bought through this seller on ebay. Good feedback, close proximity to me, tested and working, and 6-month warranty on a used part.
https://www.ebay.com/str/arizonaaut...uid=ngJAHCW5Rv2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

I put a Detroit Axle rack on mine, it's been fine, no leaks. I kept my original one though, so if the Detroit one starts to go I'll send my original out for a rebuild.

 

Can I ask what the symptoms are when needing to change this? I see some oil in and around the bushings when under the truck, but no apparent aggressive leaks or function issues. Does it drip onto the garage floor? Steering becomes hard? Trying to gauge how much life I have left in mine

 

In my case, my rack was leaking pretty badly and I had to fill up the power steering reservoir every time I drove it. Outside of that, it still functioned fine.

 

I had fluid leaking into my bellows (the accordian looking bits on the rack ends). I added some

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 to refresh the seals in the rack, since I'm too lazy to change the ATF the steering rack uses so it can get new seal additives from the fluid. I put in 3oz of AT-205 and degreased the bellows. That was a couple months ago. I was under the truck yesterday while rotating my wife's tires on her SUV (I like looking under my truck, I can't help myself), and noted, it appears my rack isn't leaking anymore.

Mind you, if your seals are physically torn, no additive package will help you. But if your issue is simply that your rack is old, and the fluid never gets changed so those seals aren't getting the seal conditioners all oil companies put in their oil additive packages, something like AT-205 may be the refresh your rack needs.

 

Since replacing my tie rods I get a pretty bad clunk at times. Moog inners. OEM outers. The joys of a 23 year old truck. No sway bar so it can't be the source.

 

I'm thinking maybe that's the source?

It's not the rack bushings, right? You're not the 1st person I've heard bitch about clunks after replacing inners.

 

The rack bushing are poly replacements from 2019 so I doubt it. Probably Moog. Not overly concerned about it yet.

 

When you installed, did you make sure you packed the ball/socket with a shitload of grease?

 

I can't remember honestly but I know it came prepacked with grease. Unsure if I added more.

 

I want to say it was @Sirfive or @455h0le_dachshund (I think S5) who mentioned something about sloppiness unless you really jam more grease in it.

The two times in my life I've needed to do inners (one of which was 20+ years ago), I made a point of packing as much grease in that ball/socket as I could.

 

My bellows look wet too, but they don’t seem to be split. Can you please tell me specifically where you put the

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205? In the reservoir with the steering fluid? I’ve never used that before. Also, how did you degrease the bellows? Brake clean? Thanks!

 

Degreasing, I used Simple Green and a cone-style wheel brush. Sprayed Simple Green on, let it dwell for a couple minutes, then brushed it clean, rinsed after. Once dry, I wiped it down with 303 hoping it'd at least replenish the bellows to some extent.

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 directly into the reservoir. Then go do some circles in a parking lot to get it pumping through the system (eventually). They call for 1.5 - 2oz of product per quart of fluid. A full bottle is 8oz (0.25qt) and based on the Power Steering Flush HowTo sticky, OP ended up using 3qt to flush the entire system, and that's the number I see tossed around for total amount held in the reservoir, lines and rack, so I went with half a bottle (4oz) in my rack.