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NSV light bar to Switch Pros

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by wire89, Sep 28, 2019.

  1. Sep 28, 2019 at 3:49 PM
    #1
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    I’m trying to sort out the connection of my NSV light bar (current gen) to my Switch Pros 9100 unit in a 2019 Tundra, which has stock LED headlights and DRL.

    I basically pulled apart all the wire harnesses and diagrammed the paths. Jensen at NSV was kind enough to tell me what each color controlled (all colors listed refer to the harness, not the light bar leads). He also warned me, which I’ll do here as well, that the light bar may not fully function as designed if not connected per instructions.

    Pin 1- red/blk, ignition
    Pin 2- red small gauge, 12v reference
    Pin 3- empty
    Pin 4- red large gauge, 12v power
    Pin 5- green, swipe
    Pin 6- brown, off-road
    Pin 7- orange, indicators
    Pin 8- yellow, DRL
    Pin 9- blue, illumination power
    Pin 10- white, high beam
    Pin 11- purple, low beam
    Pin 12- black, ground

    I started my tests by nipping the blue wire (which I need to do anyway for the recommended install) and connecting to a constant hot and of course hooking up the battery leads. I then connected the switch load wires (brown, green, and yellow) to the SP9100. Using only default settings in SP9100 app I was successful in turning on/off the DRL with yellow lead to pin 8 and the swipe with green lead to pin 5. I was also able to operate the strobe with a switch lead plugged into pin 3. Each of these operates independently without any other wires connected, in other words, connect only the yellow wire to SP and give blue constant hot then DRLs turn on/off without any additional SP programming.

    What did not work, surprisingly, was the brown wire to pin 6 for the main off-road light. All connections had proper continuity, all fuses good, all voltages good. When I activated the SP switch on the brown wire I had a full voltage reading at the 12 pin harness, so the juice was getting that far at least. Moving the brown wire around to pins 3,5, and 8 still properly operated those functions.

    The NSV interior switches all have three wires in common:
    Blue- illumination, presumably of the switch on/off light
    Red/black- ignition
    Black- ground. They feed from the interior dash harness patch, which also connects the white and purple wires above back to light bar. Since the off-road switch is wired the same as swipe and DRL, it didn’t make sense immediately why the off-road wouldn’t work. I suspected the internal relay for off-road needs another signal to make the connection when high beams are used. I think off-road is the only function that requires activation of high beams. I tried connecting the white wire for high beam to constant power but that did not work. At that point I stopped experimenting. Tomorrow I will change one of my SP triggers to high beam and see if some programming changes the results.

    Is there something in the headlight patch harness (which is not hooked up) that I might be missing, that signals high beams as being on? Any feedback or suggestions would be super appreciated, not much detailed information out there for use with SP9100, and as many know NSV does not distribute a wiring diagram. Cheers to Jensen though for entertaining my questions.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2019
  2. Sep 29, 2019 at 6:02 PM
    #2
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Experiment Take Two

    Started the morning by pulling apart steering column cover to install the NSV headlight switch T harness. Goal was to to connect purple and white wires as per instructions. I still left green, yellow, and brown unconnected on the interior as those would go to SP. I also left red/blk unconnected as the SP switches were all set to function on IGNITION. Before doing anything else I went through all OEM light settings to get a voltage baseline.
    All lights off:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 0v
    Auto / DRL:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 0v
    Low beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 11.2v
    High beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 0v

    Sooo...seeing the zeros at high beam immediately made me wonder if I blew an internal light bar relay or similar disaster when I hooked up white to constant hot yesterday. I proceeded.... I hooked up the light bar with white and purple to the interior headlight switch and blue still going to battery as yesterday. Same results, everything worked except off-road.

    I then hooked up the headlight body T harness, and for my model included the headlight motor patch harness, as per original instructions. The blue is now tapped into the OEM purple wire and NOT connected to constant hot. Unplugging and replugging that triangular motor connector was the most aggravating so far. Prior to connecting the light bar I did another check on voltage.
    All lights off:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 11.3v (previously 0v)
    Auto / DRL:
    Purple - full voltage
    White - 10.9v (previously 0v)
    Low beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 11.2v
    High beam:
    Purple - 0v
    White - 0v

    Same results, everything worked except off-road. At this point, the only wire on the 12 pin connector not used is the red/blk to pin 1. And here is how everything functioned:
    Swipe (strobe) worked on all OEM light settings
    DRL worked on OEM parking, low beam, and high beam
    Momentary swipe worked on vehicle lock/unlock

    With light bar still connected, while checking to make sure power was getting from here to there, I noticed some changes in voltage.
    High beam - purple and white remained at 0v
    Low beam - purple remained at 0v but the white was 4.7v. Pull white from the 12 pin harness and it reads back at 11.2v
    DRL / Auto - purple remained near full voltage but white was 4.7v. Pull white from 12 pin harness and it reads back at 10.9v

    Next, maybe last, attempt will be to connect the pin 1 red/blk to an ignition source and keep the yellow, brown, and green on the SP module. If that doesn’t work, I’ll install per instructions to see if I blew the thing up. Until then, if anyone has comments, feedback, suggestions...I’m open. Thx
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2019
  3. Oct 2, 2019 at 7:00 PM
    #3
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Good news...the light bar works. I first connected everything per instructions to see if it was damaged. To my surprise, and enjoyment, it worked. The only thing I'll say about suggested install is that the red off-road NSV switch does NOT work when high beams are activated in the headlight AUTO setting. The light bar would only turn on/off with the red NSV switch when the high beams were activated in the HEADLIGHTS setting on the steering column switch.

    I then disconnected the red/blk from an interior ignition wire and reconnected it to constant hot. Using the NSV switch to activate the light bar I got the same results. Then disconnecting the NSV switches entirely, I left the red/blk connected to constant hot and connected the brown Pin 6 back wire to my SP unit. At this point, all wires are connected at the 12 pin harness and only the purple and white are connected to the interior 6 pin harness which go to the steering column T harness. I was able to fully operate all modes, including strobe, using SP buttons.

    To further test what was actually necessary, I disconnected the blue pin 9 wire from the 12 pin harness and was still able to operate the light bar.

    I will fully complete the install this weekend and report back any new observations. In the meantime, here is what I can summarize as a working Switch Pros 9100 connection strategy (again, i'm summarizing this through my own experimentation, it was not suggested by NSV or Headlight Revolution, and I took all responsibility for possible damage):
    - Install interior headlight switch harness to steering column
    - Feed purple pin 11 and white pin 10 wires through firewall for connection to light bar harness (protect all other wires as needed)
    - Connect red/blk pin 1 wire on the 12 pin harness to constant hot (or maybe to an ignition circuit in the fuse box using an add-a-fuse)
    - connect the brown, yellow, and/or green wires, depending on the functions you want to use, to the desired SP module leads

    This should result in most functions. If the lock/unlock swipe function is desired then the headlight patch harness is needed in order to tap into the orange wire. Perhaps the blue is also required here but I'm not certain.
     
  4. Dec 15, 2019 at 1:43 PM
    #4
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    A discovery made...factory fog light switch at the steering column headlight selector did not turn fog lights on. If i disconnect the interior patch harness and reconnect per factory setup then the fog lights go on/off as they are supposed to. Leads to me believe that the patch harness does not fully mesh with 2019 factory wiring. I'll inquire with Jensen, but in the meantime, can anyone identify which color wire on the pin connector under th esteeming column is for the fog lights? thx
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2019
  5. Dec 15, 2019 at 2:26 PM
    #5
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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  6. Jan 19, 2020 at 3:44 PM
    #6
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Took me a while to get to this. The issue was definitely in the steering column patch harness, but totally my bad. Out of the patch harness there are two purple wires, two white wires, and two black wires. The two purple and two white wires each join to one purple and one white and go through the fire wall. The black wires had also joined in the original wiring loom to provide three ground wires to the NSV switches. When I pulled all this apart to abandon use of the NSV switch I cut the black wires above the solder joint and forgot to reconnect them. So all I had to do is connect those two blacks to get the continuous ground through the patch harness and off to the ECU (thanks to the ‘any time fog light’ write ups to explain how the fog lights get their power).
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
  7. Feb 4, 2020 at 1:47 PM
    #7
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Got around to drawing up my wiring mod diagram for connecting the light bar to the SwitchPro unit. The dashed lines indicate what I did differently, and the base diagram IS NOT from NSV.

    Document1 Page 002.jpg
     
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  8. Feb 5, 2020 at 7:39 PM
    #8
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Very nice.
    When you're engaging the functions from the switch pro, how are you outputting the negative (-) for those functions? The NSV switches output a ground signal (neg-) for those functions, when the switch pro has 8. Positive(+) outputs? Are you running them through additional relays? Or am I missing something?
     
  9. Feb 6, 2020 at 5:33 PM
    #9
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    @Toyotoholic, as an initial clarification, the ‘Switch-Pros module’ that I illustrate in the diagram is the main unit under the hood, not the interior 8-button panel. When I engage a function from the interior Switch-Pros panel it is only sending a signal to the under hood module To perform a defined set of functions. There are no positive or negative leads off the interior 8-button panel. and I’ve not added any other relays.
     
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  10. Feb 6, 2020 at 6:28 PM
    #10
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    I understand that it's just a data bus between the touch panel and the actual switch output base. But I thought the outputs from the base were 12+ (positive) only 4@ 20a 4@ 35a with bi-wiring. The information I got from Jenson was that the main light bar inputs from their switches (green, brown, and yellow) were in fact negative or grounding inputs, and the 12+ supply for the bar was the positive. When you output from your SP, aren't you sending a 12+ to those inputs?
     
  11. Feb 6, 2020 at 7:42 PM
    #11
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    Based on that info from Jensen I see where you’re coming from. I spoke to him a few times on this and did not get that same info, though for obvious reasons he was not super detailed on how to make it work. You’re right in that the Switch-Pros base sends out a positive output to the light bar. I’ll post up the original harness diagram I drew to see if that helps answer anything.
     
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  12. Feb 6, 2020 at 7:46 PM
    #12
    wire89

    wire89 [OP] New Member

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    original harness

    Document1 Page 001.jpg
     
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  13. May 10, 2020 at 7:41 PM
    #13
    fisherman951

    fisherman951 LT dreams ....

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    So what’s the easy way to do this?
     
  14. Aug 31, 2020 at 6:03 AM
    #14
    Beesta

    Beesta New Member

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    Hello guys it seems you all are guru on this install ... the youtube video shows cutting the blue wire from the T harness. Now that being said i dont have driver side turn signal ... please help . Thanks
     

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