Now closed! 10" JBL sub & box from tech12volts group buy.

It's really good, highly recommend it if you don't want a full blown amp sub setup. But it also showcasing how crappy the mid woofers in the doors are, it seems the factory system has a real aggressive frequency cut off between the lows, mids and highs.

I'll be definitely looking for a mid-woofer upgrade

 

How many people on this thread have just done this sub upgrade? By that I mean no other modifications to the stock JBL.

I'm anxiously awaiting mine and just curious about the general opinion.

 

Cool thanks. My goal is to end my audio upgrades with this sub. Otherwise I'm going to get carried away!

 

#metoo

 

to those that have installed, curious what your sounds settings are after playing around with front/rear/left/right, and trebble/mid/bass.

scheduled to receive my sub tomorrow; it'll b a long week waiting for a saturday morning install.

 

Spoken for

 

You can definitely turn bass down to middle, I also took mid and dropped it down one passed middle.

I am definitely going to replace the door mid-woofers because they are the next weakest link, they distorted like crazy when you turn it up.

 

Awesome stuff so far!!! I am set to take delivery of it tomorrow. I plan on installing tomorrow night. The write ups really help and make it an easy and quick job. Hopefully all will be done tomorrow night.

I also might upgrade the door speaker if James decided to do a group buy for those also......

 

Im VERY happy with this upgrade. I've waited to install my new HU till after this sub install to see the difference and i would still recommend it highly. Cant wait to see how much better it will get with the new HU. Not having to rattle my doors off to get bass is absolutely AWESOME! Diffeent levels/kinds of bass can be felt and heard. No more thinking some kid is beating a plastic bucket in my backseat

 

I'm curious to what settings people are using as well. I'm no audiophile so I'd appreciate any help. I have mine faded towards the front a couple clicks, treble is one less than max, mid is 3 less than max, and bass is set right in the middle. I'm sure I have this all wrong lol.
I do wanna get new door speakers at some point. I just ran into some water damage in my house so my wallet will be tight for a while unfortunately.

 

I will give that a try. Thanks!

 

I removed my factory "sub" yesterday to prepare for my new JRT setup arriving today, so all I would need to do is pull out the rear seat and install. One thing I noticed listening to tunes on the way to work this morning without the factory "sub" being there, which was very surprising...despite the fact that it's a POS, when you remove the factory "sub", it's definitely noticeable that it is gone. I didn't realize how much low-end sound that "sub" threw out, albeit at less than desirable volume levels. I can't imagine what the JRT setup is going to sound like...

I really want as much control as possible for the JRT setup, so my impatient ample ass went ahead and ordered a JBL Stadium 1000 mono amp. Yes, definitely way too much wattage for this single sub, but I can always adjust the gain and sub levels on the amp, and it comes with a remote bass knob. It also offers me expand-ability if I want to buy another sub, but I have a feeling one 10" might be enough for my tastes. I went ahead last night and wired the RCA inputs and the remote turn-on from my head unit to under the driver seat, so when I get the amp, minimum installation involved. Finally, it's a JBL amp, which definitely satisfies my OCD then it comes to uniform branding!!

 

I was thinking of adding an amp too. Can you use the line in directly from
The stock sub speaker wiring? What other wiring do you need after that? Power and remote?

Please share once you install the amp.

 

You got one? Dm me with details.

 

I’m pretty sure you can use the stock sub wiring as a high level input if the amp can accept high level RCAs. Some amps will even convert the high level RCA input to a remote amp turn-on, so you don’t even need a separate remote amp turn-on wire. I ran a remote wire just in case, because I didn’t want to have to pull my head unit out again (I have a Phoenix Android head unit with low level RCA outs, so I used them). So, if you get an amp that will accept a high level RCA input as not only the signal wire, but also as a remote amp turn-on, all you’ll need is the power wire to the battery, the negative ground, and of course the speaker wire.

The only “unknown” is what frequency the stock sub wire is sending to the sub. I got the “ping-pong” treatment from Toyota and JBL, both saying the other needs to provide that info. I e-mailed JRT to see if he knows. It’s probably something like 200hz and below... but don’t quote me on that. That’s why I like the flexibility of an independent sub amp; you can control the crossover point, the gain, the decibel boost at the amp, and the remote decibel knob.

Just finished the install just using the factory amp...write up in a few. Initially, all I can say is WOW. I can’t imagine what this will sound like with an independent amp.


MMV, because I am using an aftermarket head unit, which creates WAY better sound and volume than the factory head unit. I believe with the factory head unit though you’ll still hear plenty of improvement.


I’ll also do a write up once I get the independent sub amp installed.

 

Thanks man!

Do you have any idea what amps have the remote turn on built in? Maybe @james@tech12volts may know?

 

Man this thing rocks. As mentioned in my previous post, I’m using a Phoenix Android head unit, so I it’ll sound better than the factory head unit. But, I still can’t see how this wouldn’t vastly improve the factory head unit’s bass output.

One thing, don’t get too excited when installing it...take your time as others have mentioned, or else you’ll wind up with a punctured floor liner or carpet from those damn rear seat bottom fixed “spikes”!! Probably best as others have said to use two people when removing the rear seat!

Pics below, of the sub box installed before I put back in the rear seat, and a cautionary pic of what happens when you rush!!

 

Sorry man, I do not know, JRT could probably answer...

 

Does anyone have the amp that James recommended? @Pudge maybe you can put it on the OP when we find it?

 

I'd be happy to update the OP if someone knows the answer. I'm sure a few ppl will be interested

 

Once I get my JBL amp installed, I'll be happy to do a write up on it. I hopefully will have it installed by this Saturday. Just got the shipping notice today, should arrive Wednesday. Here's the link at the bottom of this post if you're interested. Again, probably too much power for (1) 10" sub, but you can control the gain and bass boost to limit output, switch the JBL sub we bought from JRT to 4 ohms (limiting the amp to 700 watts RMS), and it would be perfect for another 10" sub. The thing that sold me on it (besides my OCD demanding a JCB amp ) was the remote bass knob.

As "the story goes", better to have an amp rated for more CLEAN RMS power than your speaker can handle (and manage the power output to the sub), than to have a sub be under-powered by UNCLEAN signal from a weak amp. That'll kill a sub quickly.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-QPct7en0aoB/p_109STAD100/JBL-Stadium-1000.html

I was considering the 600-watt version, but for $35 more, I got the 1,000 watt for potential future upgrades. But, if you want something smaller, this would work, and instead of 600 watts at 2 ohms, you can set the sub to 4 ohms and only push 380 watts. That’s a pretty nice fit for our JRT setups.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109STAD6/JBL-Stadium-600.html?awcp=1t2&awcr=295761322787&awdv=m&awkw=+jbl++stadium++600&awmt=b&awnw=g&awug=1021278&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8JO47rWR4AIViFYNCh0HXgpiEAAYAiAAEgJoO_D_BwE

 

Sir Pudgeness,
Has there been any update on the group buy for tweeters with the brackets and a speaker upgrade package?

@Pudge

 

Just got mine this afternoon, sad thing is I won't have my truck back till tomorrow afternoon. Haven't opened it yet but it looks like the UPS man didn't like it, maybe because of the weight.

 

Any update when the rest of us getting our sub?

 

This sub is only rated at 250 rms. Its pretty good as is off the stock HU but... It's definitely causing me to seriously think about adding a amp.

https://www.hifisoundconnection.com...-Series-Class-D-Mono-250W-Subwoofer-Amplifier

Something like this would be perfect. It has high input and signal sense for turn on. I am also thinking about updating the mid-woofer in the doors. The cross overs are so harsh they still rattle and distort on most aonga Anyone know their impedance?

 

Yes! getting ship out tmr..

 

I will be talking to James about this. Probably in early February. Wanted him to be caught up with orders from the sub GB and let people see what they think before spending again.

 

Im.pretty sure the OEM speakers are 2 ohm.
And this sub from the group buy can be 2 or 4 ohm, theres actually a switch on the sub to change to 2 or 4
That amp seems like it would be great. It has high level input and converts(extra harness required) it also has 3 remote turn on options. It could make quite a difference as long as the speaker level inputs will work with the sub wires and convert it okay