Now closed! 10" JBL sub & box from tech12volts group buy.

The cut out is the port, it is ment to be there. Sub boxes can be designed with or without ports, there are different internal box volume requirements for with and without ports. Can you elaborate on where you think the crack is in @Pudge box, it looks good to me. Are you seeing the bead of glue inside the port where the different panels come together?

 

It's a ported box, it's designed for this specific subwoofer. So the size of the port, the internal baffling and the size help it tune the subwoofer to optimum

 

If you are talking about in the port, that's just a seam.

 

So with my terminals on the wrong side, I ended up cuting the connector off the factory sub and soldering them onto some speaker cable.

It sounds exactly how it SHOULD have from the factory. ( Another 150 watts and it would slam) I am older now with kids and a career and don't think it would be appropriate to slam trap music picking them up at daycare or driving into work parking lot so this new sub helps scratch that itch.

With the new sub woofer it's definitely noticable how aggressive the frequency cut off are for the mid bass vs woofer. I definitely will be exploring replacing the door speakers with some jbl stadiums

 

Sorry guys as i am absolutely clueless when it comes to audio. Must be glue from the seam just looking like a crack. Ignore the new guy for i know not what i speak

 

That black curtain like thing behind the seat, can that be successfully removed to insert some sound deadening? While I wait, I was thinking about doing that but those tabs don't look like they'll play nice.

 

Im doing the same. Found this video to help https://youtu.be/udp-tmx0Hus James (Tech12Volts) is the guy for audio so excuse the video being from TT.

 

I did a little write up about sound deadening in the audio forum, I did the back wall with several layers then put the curtain back on. The curtain you speak of is mass loaded vinyl.

 

You have a link?

 

Arrived this morning. Cat approved packaging...

Removed from packaging and performed Cat approved foam removal. You have to unscrew the sub and pull it from the enclosure. Pull foam from enclosure and reinstall sub in box. One of my screws was barely in the wood so be aware of how things came apart when going back together.

As previously mentioned, remove four 17mm bolts holding the seat in with noting the right rear bolt is a different pitch. That's the truck's right rear. Not yours...

Remove three 10mm bolts holding the factory enclosure. Disconnect and remove.

 

I did things slightly different here. I removed the factory sub from it's enclosure and cut the wire inside. There is plenty of wire in here and this will allow me to splice them back together in the future if I want to and not have to worry about messing with the factory connectors. The plug in the enclosure is larger on the inside than outside so using a screwdriver I worked the edge of the plug and shoved it through and removed it.

Note the black screw in the floor. I reinstalled the three bolts that hold the factory enclosure back in there respective spots. This way I won't lose the hardware if I ever want to go back to stock. Plus, the hole in the floor that is visible in the post above goes all the way through and you can see daylight. Probably hard for water to get in there but that was yet another reason for me to put that bolt back.

As you can see, white now goes to green and blue goes to black. With that being said now the green goes to the black connector on the sub and the black wire goes to the red connector.

 

Another benefit of wiring it this way is there is a ton of extra wire to work with. I am old and size 32 but 34's fit me so well I just go ahead and buy 36's. Also because I wear shirt size small in XL I decided upon starting this project it was going to be easier to pull the rear seat. As noted in other posts be aware of the two posts in the bottom of the frame when going back in if you go this route. The seat is heavy and they can poke nice dimples in your floor/carpet if you are not careful. I was working by myself and it took a few attempts to get it in, giggity, but eventually it all lined up. Again as previously noted the rear of the frame was slightly off of the floor but after tightening the bolts back down it was flush again. Put the seat bottom back down and I was good to go.

Then it was time for some diet pizza so I turned on Tow/Haul Ass, drove like an asshat and decided to listen to some soothing 50 year old type music on my way. Something to calm the soul and put your mind at ease. Ahh yeah, this will work.....

End result: Took me about an hour by myself. There is a noticeable difference but it is not mind blowing. Worth about what it cost in my opinion. I appreciate all the effort that went into this and am happy with my purchase. Hopefully this doesn't evolve into a full blown $$$$ystem that my deaf ears can't appreciate anymore anyway..

Hopefully.... lol...

 

LoL I thought the same actually.

 

Checking my email every hour hoping for ups tracking.. still nothing haha

 

Thanks for posting this. Great idea....I might have thought of this once I had it out...then again, maybe not!

Appreciate it.

 

Do you know what bolt size and thread pitch the bolts are (the 3 set). I hand tightened the bolts and one didn't go as far.. I stupidly turned it about half a turn with the wrench before stopping because it felt wrong. I want to go ahead and get another bolt.

 

I'm not sure to be honest. I did the same thing but I still need to get a new bolt

 

If you are talking about the hole on the side of the box, yes, it's supposed to be there, it's a ported enclosure.

 

Box is solid, hope to install tomorrow. Has a strong odor, glue behind carpeting I’m guessing. Anyone notice it once they installed? If so I’m gonna let it air a few more days so it doesn’t bug kiddos

 

The rear seat bolts are all 17mm, 1 with a different thread. I posted a video on page 10 that should clear up which one is different. Hopefully you didnt strip the tapped hole. Take out all the bolts to find the 1 unique threaded bolt and retry.

 

arrived yesterday...sub, and needed amp for non sr5...dsp is extra, won from JRT raffle..I am having to get this "professionally installed" along with some sound deadening, changing 4 door speakers with crossover...thank you @Pudge and tech12volts!!!

 

I got the right bolts in the correct holes. I guess I had it going in wrong and it messed up the first thread or so.

 

I just got done installing mine. Pretty simple install and would have taken me about 40 minutes if it wasnt for all the sound deadening I added to the back wall over the summer. I ended up needing to mess around with that quite a bit to get the seat to go back in right.
I think it sounds much better especially for the price. I can now turn the bass down to zero or into the negatives and it still sounds great. It's nice to be able to take some bass out of the front speakers to clean up the sound.

 

@JAMES when the rest of us getting ours?

 

Under an hour install, that included removing esp long box and adjusting one of their seat mounts. Sound is much better, I just need to learn how to adjust my levels on my kenwood. Once I get amp plugged up it will hit harder.

 

Thanks SO MUCH @flying dave for your detailed write-ups! My box/sub arrives Monday, so I removed the factory sub enclosure today and cut the wire exactly where you did. If for some oddball reason I need to put back the factory sub enclosure, all I’ll need to do is solder the wires back together, and the soldered joints will go back inside the factory sub enclosure, so none will be the wiser.
Plus, to your point, PLENTY of wire to work with now.
A black wire going into a positive terminal though...electronic sacrilege!!!

 

Was going to say having the ESP lockbox was no problem