Not sure 5.29's were the right choice for me, thoughts?

where/how does one get this? Dealer? after-market shop?

 

Search YotaWerx on here.

 

Awesome. Thank you!

 

I haven't found the need for regearing, either... and I also got a throttle controller which is an absolute must on the later 2nd gens IMO.

I have a big assed permanent camper mounted on mine, with some elements currently missing that would improve aero. Fat 35s and a 2" lift. Stock gears. I got 16 mpg on a long trip with this, both ways, and not wind aided, lots of hills. So being over-geared with a higher load doesn't seem to be confusing the computer, and it drives fine. I took this same trip twice before the camper and averaged 17.7 mpg.

If I got a regear it would be 5.29s. Versus the 4.30 this is the same difference as going from 6th to 5th gear. So when highway cruising I can put the truck in S5 and simulate that regear! I do that sometimes if it's shifting too much, but usually not. What I'd gain with the regear is a lower 1st gear, and slightly better acceleration (closer gear spacing), which would be nice. But I'd lose the tall 6th I have now, which is kinda nice for tailwinds and long downhills. If I'd had the option of 5.29s from Toyota I would have done it (and fitted 37s too!), but I'm not feeling the need to spend lots of money for inferior gears (but a better ratio); not yet anyway.

 

Definitely not the dealer. A good tuning shop with a dyno is my first choice, followed by a canned tune from a trusted vendor.

With a dyno tune, your tune will be dialed in based on what your truck is actually doing on the rollers. It will be custom tailored.

“Canned tune” isn’t a good choice of words. But, you’re gonna get a tune someone has developed for your truck based on others’ experiences. It may be absolutely perfect for you, or not. I’d be confident that it will be an improvement though!

 

Agree 100% went from a canned tune to a custom dyno tune big difference

 

Gonna need more pics of your camper setup.

 

No offense, but something does not add up. I could never get 16 to 17mpg, even back when I had a leveling kit and tiny 285r55x20 tires. Best I ever saw was around 15.5 mpg when doing a long trip with cruise control at 70. I normally averaged 14.5mpg with that setup. Now I get around 12 with 37s and 5.29 gears. I do have my speedo corrected with a hypertech/rough country calibrator. My speedo is spot on to GPS, radar signs and I when I have done 100 mile stretches and I would verify the odometer against the highway mile markers.

 

Commercially available campers weren't janky enough, so I made my own. Not much to show; lots to do yet. But at least I can sleep in it. Photos below are when checking the articulation. There is a pivoting deal so the frame can twist without stressing the camper.

 

Looks lightweight. Very nice!

 

Living at 7,000 ft helps. The trip I mentioned was between 4.5k and 8k. 70-75 mph average on the freeway. I use cruise, but don't lock it in and leave it there. Flooring it on every hill sucks a lot of gas. About half of it was secondary roads and lower speeds.

I was surprised that my big heavy AT tires apparently have less rolling resistance than the stock Bridgestones. Lucky that I got good ones, but they don't make them anymore. Aero must be worse with the tires and lift, and definitely the camper!... but altitude reduces aero drag (which is proportional to air density) and the ECU must compensate for altitude very well. I also think the stock bumper is an aero benefit vs aftermarket. Maybe I'm hypermiling?

 

When loaded with junk, it won't be light! Ya, figuring the bed I removed weighs ~350 lb and the empty shell of the camper is ~750 lb, and ~100 lb for the mounts and pivot. It's hand laid fiberglass and carbon over 1.5" PVC foam. The interior is partially done, and that's all light and simple too. Need to make lower storage boxes for each side of the camper, and will have water, fuel, and propane tanks underneath as well. Planning to live in it full time, if I don't die first!