No more 130 or 150 amp alternators?

Yeah. I’m not looking forward to having to pull it off and reinstall.

 

FWIW,

Im bone stock battery and alt and run two JL-XD 600, no dimming, no clipping, everything runs perfectly, and has for some time.

hope that helps someone.

 

AGM batteries are looking for 14v+ to properly charge, not really amps. I don’t believe any upgraded alternator in the tundra is going to be giving you what you’re looking for. If I were you, I’d either be content with a shortened lifespan on an AGM battery (from not getting “topped off”) or be content with charging your battery system. My truck is charged when at home (98% of its life) and it takes me all of a few seconds to connect and disconnect, they come with quick disconnects you can route to easily accessible places. Sure beats 8 hours under the truck swapping out a perfectly good alternator, but to each our own.

 

looks more like an engine block heater plug for the secret diesel sweers has been keeping from us, HEHE

 

I was very happy with my previous setup with the aftermarket 240 amp alternator, 1/0 power, 1/0 ground and aftermarket battery setup. I never had any issues and while running all my aftermarket lights and all my other electrical accessories. My output electrical gauge never budged.

 

You have no idea how happy I am to have stumbled across this thread. I’ve got a 2017 that is making the exact noise you’re describing but I couldn’t really figure out how to put it into words for anyone else. I spent a lot of time with a long flathead screwdriver touching random points on the motor until I felt the rhythmic vibration right off of the alternator!

 

After researching what I think are the 2 best aftermarket options; Mechman, and DC Power, I chose a 270 amp DC Power. It was due to the pully. On Mechman alts they reduce the size of pully in order to increase amps at an idle. DC Power does not. They keep it stock size, so there s less of a chance the ecu will be affected. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/search?type=product%2Carticle%2Cpage&q=tundra

 

Was it like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCMW4lAye4U&ab_channel=badderthanyou

 

Or if you want a slight upgrade but staying with OEM Denso parts, 27060-38050 is the P/N for the 180 amp alternator out of the 200 series Land Cruiser and Sequoia. That's what I went with in my truck. Direct bolt on, just had to slightly open up the hole in the power wire lug that connects to the post on the alternator. The only real issue is the case for the 180 amp is slightly larger than the 150, so makes it tougher to get back into its space.

 

Hey bro, so it’s a direct bolt on? No problems? My alternator just crap on me at 58k miles, and I’m looking for an upgrade.

thanks

 

Completely a direct bolt on, only thing I had to do was ream out the wire lug that attaches to the alternator power stud as the one for the 180 amp was slightly bigger than the 150 amp, but that was easy enough to do with a step bit. Besides that, it drops right in!

 

Thanks

 

My bearings started making noise at 5 years old and 63k miles. It has a JL 900 watt amp powering 2 sets of components and 2 10” subs. Truck has seen lots of dirt. Replaced with new OEM 150 amp.

 

The 150 is plenty.Do not use a 100 amp alternator. The change out is brutal even if you watch the YT shortcuts.
These alternators are mounted very low. In wet off-road use I can see where they take a beating. Buy OEM or a very reputable shop who can rebuild an alternator properly.

 

What stinks is many times the bearings are just shot-and finding someone who you can trust to use quality bearings and put back together is harder than just replacing the entire unit. Not many quality shops around in my area at least.

 

We have one in Jax, Fl. Hunters on Lem Turner Rd.

 

@Donkeypunch
https://www.aic-controls.com/wire-size
https://alternatorparts.com/wire-size-chart.html

 

My 2019 Tundra Limited was scheduled in production with the HD 170 Amp alternator; however, Toyota parts group does not sell a replacement, only the 150 amp unit. I like to have a spare.

I could go up to 250 with an after market from LAelectric when it is time to replace it, existing wiring will handle it, however, I would rather stick with the original amperage (170). I can’t seem to find it anywhere at 170 amperes. I saw that the Sequoia has a 180 amp unit (2706038050) for the 5.7 (3URFE). Does anyone know if it will fit/work?