No A/C or heat

Absolutely!

 

The majority of what's written at that site is what I've been told going on decades, it hasn't failed me yet. "Lies" is a bit extreme.

OP needs to go somewhere and have gauges thrown on it. And if he does, I think all three of us agree, they'll say he's low on coolant, and they should be able to figure out whether it's a jam on the high or low side or a leak pretty easily.

 

Okay, they aren't malicious, just overgeneralized. I'll roll it back to "inaccuracies".

I bet OP is going to buy a set of gauges and learn a few things about how heat pumps work. OP, if you do go this way, be sure to get two clamp-on temp probes so you can measure the subcooling and superheat.

 

Thanks guys. I'll poke around more this weekend, but will likely take it to an A/C shop to get it done right. I'll let you know what they find.

 

For what it's worth, if it was outrageously low, the low pressure switch should stop the clutch/compressor from engaging in most systems.

Given you've said the clutch is kicking in and idle/RPM changing, that's at least somewhat promising?

Sending good juju vibes your way that it's something cheap.

 

AC is now also fixed! Thanks so much for this helpful discussion; I learned a lot.

I brought the truck to an AC shop. The Freon level was low, as many on this thread had suspected. They charged the system, replaced the schrader valve(s?) as a courtesy, and checked for leaks. No sign of leaks, so the mechanic suspects that there's likely a small leak from the condenser, so keep an eye out for Freon dripping underneath. Other than keeping and eye out for the leak using a UV light, they said just to charge as needed, probably annually.

Should I recharge myself when needed?

Thanks again.

 

In my personal opinion, NO.

Not only can you not be sure of how much is enough, versus overcharging (bad), but you don't want coolant leaking out and vaporizing into the atmosphere.

The Schraders may've been the actual leak point. If so, the shop may've fixed your leak by replacing. Monitor it. If it stops being cold, like returns to what it was, evap coil is a common likely source. I'm assuming - and you could call to ask - they added a contrast dye to the replacement coolant they added, so if you do happen to be low again, they can throw a light and special glasses on it to see exactly where it's leaking. I can show you a picture of what a positive leak looks like, I took it from my last truck when a seal on the compressor itself blew out. Let me know. I have the special light and glasses in my shop for this and finding oil/coolant leaks.

 

@shifty` Okay, I'll bring it in for charging. Yes, he did add the dye. I'd be interested in seeing the picture. I just ordered a small UV light, and will look around as best I can.

 

There are special yellow glasses you can pair up with the light to really make things pop.

But they should be able to check it pretty quickly if you bring it back in. Some places won't fill you up twice because of the environmental impact of leaks.

But they've set you up right.

 

I"ve got a slow leak and mine are at the shrader, and the o-rings for the input and output of the drier from what I see.

I knew he was low, because the bubble thing is exactly what I experienced although I didn't lose AC altogether.

 

You're replying in the 1st Generation (2000-2006) subforum. I would recommend posting your comment in the 2.5 Gen subforum here: https://www.tundras.com/forums/2-5-gen-builds-2014-2021.28/

Guys over here in this year/gen forum really aren't liable to know much about your truck. We tend to be cantankerous, old, resilient to change, love our old and superior Tundras, etc. I think we'd love to help, but ... Maybe can't offer the help you need.

The only advice I'd give you is to visit the dedicated EWD (electrical wiring diagrams) thread, download the EWD for your truck, and figure out what those wires are which are coming off your ECU. It might shed some light on the subject. Maybe someone wired an aftermarket alarm over to the heat, so you could remote start and turn the heat on? And the alarm is shitting itself, like they tend to start doing after 8-10 years?

 

10-4. Thank you!

 

Come on, bring it on...I can handle all the change you throw at me!