New Tundra Owner (hi!) Looking for advice on replacing Entune JBL Premium HU

It will all make sense when you get the Entune out and unplugged. Everything matches up. Let me know if you need help with anything. Sounds like you could be finished in a couple hours at most.

 

So everything was hooked up, everything works, but no sound At all. I cant for the life of me figure it out. I have read some many different things for the past few hours, but I cant figure it out.

I have JBL with amp, but removed JBL HU for Kenwood DMX906S. I have the Maestro iDatalink and the right harnesses and everything. On thing I am unsure of is I am using RCAs for the gray and white wires because I read somewhere on here you could, rather than splicing and connected to gray. Wondering if that could potentially be the issue. I have also read about confusion with the blue wires.

Any ideas? Thanks for advise on previous responses.

 

I purchased crutchfield ready harness. At top of maestro diagram under step 1 make sure the white/white black goes to LR RCA Input and gray gray/black goes to RF RCA Input. This maestro diagram is very helpful.

 

On ready harness make sure both circled in red are plugged in to each other.

 

Thanks for trying to help. I have both of those plugged in whites to white and then grays to red, then the 3.5 jack is plugged into AV audio out on the head unit. The plugs in the pictures are also both plugged in. Wondering if hard wiring whites and grays to the harness will change anything?

 

this is helpful to see. I’ll be trying to tackle the Kenwood install (for Real this time) in about 2 hrs. I had no idea where to plug those white and gray RCAs.

 

As i prepare for the install today, I understand that connection to be the OBD2 connector. I guess crutchfield doesn’t “tape” this connector into the ReadyHarness because not everyone will use it? Not sure. I plan on making the connections and taping it up nice and neat with automotive tape.

 

I user that maestro diagram for the entire install, but still haven’t been able to figure out the “no sound” issue. I have the RCA cables plugged into an adaptor with RCA females (whites into white and grays into red), with the 3.5 plug going into the Aux Audio out port. Not sure if this is what is causing the no sound issue. Maybe I should try just splicing the whites and grays, and connect with the aftermarket HU harness. I don’t know if this is a waste trying that or if its another issue.

 

****Update: Everything is working...should have listened to @AZBoatHauler before. The White and Gray RCAs have to be plugged into the RCA ports for “Front” (AKA the middle ports). I didn’t have to splice, but removed the RCA adaptor and plugged them in just to give it a shot and it worked. Sound is great, and coming from all speakers as anticipated! Thanks for the guidance and input. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future that has no idea what they are doing like me. Haha

 

Into these?

 

Yes sir. This thing sounds way better than stock after adjusting the settings.

I do have an SRS Airbag malfunction light now. I’m trying to research to determine potential issues that could set this off.

 

Make sure your climate control module is plugged in. My airbag light came on when I was bench testing with the climate module unplugged.

 

I’m glad you got it sorted out. Mine was not a JBL system so I wasn’t sure everything re speaker signal would be the exact same.

 

where did you route your Bluetooth mic? I want to get it up to the factory location (overhead light area), but seems like a lot of work to route it over to the a-pillar and up under the headliner to that spot.

 

Thanks for your help @AZBoatHauler ! Climate plugged back in and error code gone now. Makes sense with the sensor on that panel. Appreciate you!

 

Check to make sure your climate control assembly is plugged in, that will cause airbag light to come on if not.

 

it actually was not terrible to run it. I pulled the pillar cover off and ran it behind the gauges and up the pillar, through the roof liner and only two T20 screws in the sunglasses compartment. Just I clipped the stock Mic and left it inside when I put it back in case I ever go back to stock. Fits right in there. Worth it man.

 

oops looks like @AZBoatHauler already answered.

 

here is where I mounted mine. I originally had it tucked up behind the rear view mirror which was cleaner looking but people were having a hard time hearing me and just that little bit of distance made a huge difference. Just run out the side panel of the dash, up the A pillar and tuck under the head liner....doesn’t take long at all.

 

I got everything installed. As folks said above with the ready harness, harness, everything is pretty self-explanatory once you get the factory radio out. I’m pretty sure I would have been stuck with the gray and white RCA cables and what to do with them, had it not been clarified above.

I was pretty disappointed to see that wireless Apple CarPlay requires the use of the GPS antenna. Since I’d be using Apple or Google maps I decided to forgo the cable required to connect it. But as soon as I Paired my iPhone, it threw up the air message about the missing GPS antenna hook up.

I used the additional harness I bought to hook the factory USB port Into the Kenwood head unit. I plugged it into one of the USB inputs - I can’t remember which. I was surprised to see wired Apple CarPlay work when I plug my iPhone into the USB port. I was told by the Crutchfield representative, that the factory USB port (on my 2017) did not pass the data required for CarPlay. So he sold me an additional 6 foot USB extension cable to plug into USB two on the head unit… Which apparently was completely unneeded.

thanks to everyone in this thread for all the help! Now I have to actually read the manual and figure out all of the various settings on the head unit.

 

The gps antenna that comes with HU mount it under center channel speaker and drop it down, the HU is right below. Then you can plug it in and use it, I sync her mine up I can use wired or wireless car play. The usb I use on 2018 is to the left of 12v cig lighter port.

 

Yeah, sounds good. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow. Not super excited about pulling it all out again tomorrow. Hah! I have a little more work to do anyway. I toured the mic up to the rear view mirror area, but didn’t quite get it into the overhead console area. It’s just dangling currently.

Does anyone else feel *terrible* when shoving all those wires/cables/harnesses/maestro back into the dash behind the HU? It just feels like a sh*tty way to do things...

 

Also... one other thing. Back-up camera guidelines.

when I put it in reverse, the backup camera activates... but with the steering wheel straight, the kenwood guidelines are drawn completely curved. As if I had the wheel turned two full turns.

I messed with the guideline settings hoping I could calibrate them, but you can only edit the extents of the guidelines; not their “straightness.”

searching the internet now for a solution.

 

One thing I notice as well. When on call or listening to gps it’s only playing through center channel. Did this with entune as well. Thought it would change with kenwood HU and the volume has to be almost up to max to hear it. But normal FM or BT audio sounds very loud and from all speakers. Are you guys experiencing this as well?

 

Yes. Since I have an iPhone, the spoken turn-by-turn directions from Apple Maps are *very* soft/low volume. I haven’t found a solution yet.

 

I turned off the Kenwood lines since you can’t get rid of the Toyota lines so I can’t help you here.

Lots of people have the issue with calls and turn by turn only going to the center channel. I have no clue why or how, but for some reason I get calls through the entire dash and front door speakers and get turn by turn through the entire system.

If you adjust the volume while you are on a call or during the navigation prompts it will adjust (and save) the volume for that specific activity. You can also adjust all the sound/volume settings for the different sources (FM, Bluetooth, etc) in the Kenwood settings menu.

I’m using an iPhone XS with wireless CarPlay if that makes any difference. I used the Maestro Sat02 adapter for the wireless CarPlay.

ETA I use Google Maps, not Apple.

 

It totally feels weird shoving all that crap behind the HU! Haha. I was thinking the same thing.

It took me about 30 seconds of driving before the GPS could figure out where I was and which direction as was going. But it seems to be accurate now (I left the factory GPS adaptor in the dash and installed the Kenwood one it came with, because I read about inaccurate locations if you use the factory GPS.)

I understand the parking guidelines thing and will be trying to find a solution as well. Lastly, I had no issue connecting to wireless CarPlay when I was hooking it up, but after testing and shoving it back in the dash, for some reason I have been unable to get Wireless CarPlay to work for me now. The wired version is working though. I have tried deleting and resending my phone, but it doesn’t seem to connect anymore. Not sure how I am going to fix that just yet.

Lastly, as of now at least, the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel is showing my half tank of gas as needing to refuel. I think I read somewhere that running both gauges and sensors can throw off accuracy. I may mess around with the settings and see if there is a way to resolve.

 

Interesting! I don’t have that issue thankfully. Post up what you find out.

As for the Siri volume with navigation, turning up the volume while that source was active did the trick. During turn by turn prompts, the volume indicator is a different color (I guess indicating the different source) than the radio volume indicator.

 

Update on the rear view cam...
Looks like if you extend the length of the lines out a bit further than the stock lines, it reduces the extreme curvature of the live guidelines, and appears to be fairly Accurate with where your vehicle would be going. I just set the red line on par with the stock red line, the yellow line with the first blue line and extend the green line about where it shows up on the Kenwood setting. Then I adjusted the side lines to line up with the side stock lines. Its probably not perfect, but it helps show a rough idea of where your vehicle will travel as the wheel is turned. Much better than trying to shrink the farthest line to match up with the stock lines.

Also, I removed the remaining fuel gauge from the HU gauges and the distance til empty is accurate behind the steering wheel again! I think there must be a conflict amongst the different systems causing inaccuracies before.

My biggest complaints right no is wireless CarPlay no longer connecting at all, and the call volume is extremely low at the max volume level. Ill keep posting as I find out more about this system.

 

Somewhere in the stereo settings there is a menu to input the size of your fuel tank for this reading - had you done that?