New to me 2001 4x4 5spd V6

Did the truck come with an owners manual? That should help explain the 4WD system. It may also be written on your driver side sun visor. You're lucky in that you have a manual transfer case instead of the push button most of us have.

 

This is on the visor

 

I had not looked in the glove box before.
I found all this:

 

That is literally what most of us would love to see in ours, especially the maintenance folder.

 

Porn isn't allowed on the forum. You need to remove this pic.

 

If one desires the same but in a downloadable copy, Tundra Owners website will have them.

or here.....1st Gen Tundra Brochures, Owner's Manual and Maintenance Schedules

 

Thankfully not one of my vices.

 

Would this be a good choice?

 

Are they for an AC?

 

Yes a 4x4 used daily driving all around

 

I mean are those specific shocks you posted for an AC? The springs will be different for an AC and a DC.

 

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...-and-rear-shocks-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

 

Hmmm. Doesn’t specify. Does say fits 2000-2006, and the DC wasn’t available until 2004.

 

I want to daily drive this truck to work, keep the ride height right around stock. Don't want more than 1"-2" lift max. Due to rust, I need to replace the UCA, front shock assembly, rear shocks and leaf springs. Could someone please recommend me a good setup and a reliable place to purchase them from?

 

If you want no lift the link you posted to the yellow 4600s with springs on them are a great choice. If you go with these, all you need is stock style UCA's. Unless someone on here is willing to sell you their old OEM arms (after they upgraded) you'll probably want to go aftermarket on these, I feel like OEM Toyota will be pricy but you'd have to check.

If you want any lift that's a whole other can of worms with many different options. If you'll never go more than 1 or 2 inches then you'll be fine with a stock UCA regardless.

I'd jump on those lower ball joints ASAP even if you do those before everything else. You really don't want those to come apart. Looks like you definitely need new bolts. 9008010066 (QTY 8) is what you'll need for that. These are single use only bolts (there's a thread about this but it's a little long winded).

As far as leaf springs, unless they are about to rot away completely, are cracked, or you're planning to tow a lot, I'd leave them be.

 

Here some shots from under the truck.
I can't find the fill plug on the front diff and also there seems to be some sort of electrical device attached to the differential. I wonder if anyone knows what that is?
Also the motor oil has a wired drain valve looking thing. Is that normal?

 

Weird drain valve thing is a Fumoto style easy drain valve. Not a bad thing.

The electrical thingy on the front diff is likely an actuator / position indicator for the 4wd system so it knows if it’s engaged or not. Your transfer case is manual but the front diff still needs an actuator since you have full time engaged front hubs.

The fill plug for the front diff is usually mid way up or so on the inner side of the diff closer to the output shaft on the right. Might be that visible rusty spot on your pic.

 

Looks like a new front bumper was installed with the new chassis. But the paint Toyota puts on their metal is total junk. That's the problem with their chassis and parts rusting so badly is they don't paint their parts properly. I'm going to be taking this bumper apart and using some Rust-Oleum paint to make it decent ... I wonder if I can paint over the surface rust?

 

Start with this.

 

4600s will keep you at stock height, so same setup as now, a little natural 0.5-1.5" rake toward the front, depending. I beleive you can pair the 4600 with lifted springs if you want a bit more, but don't quote me on that. Josh @ 1stGenOffroad should be able to answer that. If I were you I'd probably look to stuff an OME 2883 spring in there, and Josh can pre-load for you, I believe. He's got the setup in his shop to do it. OME 2883 with your access cab, 4WD, and V6 should give you about an inch up front, +/- 0.25". Not enough to need new UCA or extended links.

I was about to comment on the drain too - @Bmktw2 find a rubber hose that'll fit into the tip of that. To drain your oil, all you need to do is open the valve while the tube is in your drain pan. I'd recommend leaving that thing on there, no need to change your drain plug bolt or washer as a result!

Also, looks like your transfer case ("TC") could use a wipe down and potentially new washers. It looks like whoever drained/filled the fluid last time either didn't clean up after, or used old washers, or didn't torque to spec. Careful, don't over-torque on the TC drain/fills, you can definitely strip them. Here's the drain/fill plugs (always open fill plug first, don't want to get caught with no way to refill!!) and the oil staining in question ... seems to start below the fill, so maybe it's from its last refill, but ... take a close look in this area to be sure. Brass brush will get all this shiny again.

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And depending what finish you're going for, their outdoor is great. This satin matches OEM frame and body paint perfectly in its sheen and color - but maybe you don't want to go flat-ish looking. Lay down the stuff he linked, sand it, use prep to clean, then lay this.:

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I just left the store and notice the post. I hope this will work just as well. I plan to wire wheel the rust first then hit it with this primer and paint

 

Clean everything as good as you can. Like several days and multiple applications of degreaser and elbow grease. Once everything is clean leaks are easier to find. Everything is easier to eyeball.

just dont forget to regrease the stuff that needs it. And tread lightly near electrical or vacuum stuff. Dont wanna dry out thise hoses.

 

It's perfectly fine. All depends on the look you're going for. Also, get a can of paint prep spray, lint-free towels, and a wet/dry sand variety pack if you want a better-than-backyard result.

I've probably D-A sand or wire wheel the rust off. Smooth sand to finish in the 150-300 grit range, paint prep the face, then lay down several light coats of the rusty metal primer within the recoat window given on the can (have a timer ready), or use whatever process they recommend. Respect the cure time on the can once the last layer goes down. After a full cure period, sand any runs to smooth it out, then paint prep the face again, and repeat the previous instructions with the gloss, again respecting the recoat window and cure times. Full cure time may be days, not hours, enamels tend to be a little soft and easy to dent for days and sometimes weeks after. They also maintain elsaticity for years after that.

If you want to paint-match, I've used https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ on a couple of vehicles now and generally been happy with their product. Just don't go too overboard, you can get a new front bumperskin for less than $200, even in chrome. I got my rear bumper in chrome shipped from Summit Racing for $196 + free ship + tax a few years back, brand was Coast to Coast International, who makes a lot of aftermarket bumper skins. It's held up really well, chrome seems nice and stout.

And a few coats with a wait time in between will bring back that grey ass trim to its original dark charcoal grey color: https://www.griotsgarage.com/black-shine-trim-restorer-8-ounces/

 

It looks like Summit has something for you, too. Sherman makes good stuff. Bought some of their bumper skins for my previous truck from Summit - this is for your '01:

https://www.summitracing.com/search...erior-accessories/section/bumpers-accessories

 

Allow me a decent distraction.

 

Clean
Primer

 

That looks super clean!
You removed the plastic parts?

 

He did. I just removed everything.

 

That's a good look. Should take the hood off too that would be epic