New to me 2001 4x4 5spd V6

First 3rd member removed:


Second 3rd member removed:


Both chunks:

 

I think you'll need this...

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/__/Gasket-Housing-Differential-Carrier/3951044/4218134011.html

 

Thanks, was planning to just use FIPG

 

Mmmmm.... I can smell the used gear oil from here

 

Yeah me too

I got the 4.10 in the new housing and everything is right and tight.... Now I need to muscle this heap up under the truck

 

My brother showed up just in time to help me pick the axle up, set it on the jack and position it in place. It is in! It's great to have a brother.

 

I just wanted to comment how bad the condition of the original axle was after I took it all apart:
The housing was rusted through and leaking, the brake lines snapped when I tried to undo them at the wheel cyls, the driver side leaf spring was broken at the rear pigtail, the wheel cylinders were rusted and seals blown and an outer axle bearing was bad.
What a relief it is to have a whole new everything under there!

 

Rust has killed more first gen Tundras than anything else. It's awful.

 

I think I saved this one just in time

 

To be honest, apart from the paint, I think you have a pretty brand new truck at this point....

 

Everything is connected, tighted up and the axle is full. Now all that's left is to bleed the brakes



The puddle under the axle is the stain from the old unit. This axle is sealed tight

 

I was planning to remove the exhaust to work on it. When I tried to undo the catalytic converter from the crossover, the bolt snapped. The stud was still left in the flange. I diddnt want a leak later down the road so I worked to remove it all together.
My idea was to weld a nut on the broken stud and back it out....

If at first you don't succeed, try and try and try and try and try and try and try and try and try and try again.

If that doesn't work, try something else.
I ended up having to completely drill the bolt out. It just refused to thread out!

Here, after 4 hours, I have the new bolt installed. It was a bad situation in a tight spot:

While I had the welder out, I made some repairs to a flange and a couple hangars

The exhaust is all tight and good to go for a little while. I am satisfied...

 

Tried to go for a maiden voyage but when I pressed the clutch, one of the hard hydraulic lines from the master to the slave busted from a rust spot and the pedal went to the floor.
I was suspect this would happen so I already ordered a new "master to flex hard line" from mcGeorge Toyota. Should be here on the 7th....

Also ordered a pair of new 2005 year model 13wl calipers, hoses and pads. Should be here right at the same time as the clutch line.

 

Bummer, but it couldn't have happened at a better time/place...

 

Make sure that breather cap is free or just replace for peace of mind. Could also extend it up behind the tail light if you plan to do some water crossings.

I really thought I remembered you saying you had the big brakes already.

 

I'll check the breather, thanks.

Yes it has the 13wl brakes already but the bleeder is rusted frozen on the passenger side so I could not bleed the caliper and they look so rusty I'm afraid of having issues with them seizing up down the road
Even the dog agrees...

 

That's about par for the course. We spent 3 days replaced everything in my suspension and steering. Put it on the ground and the power steering hose popped. Go figure.

 

How the hell did that truck get so rusty in Florida?

 

The PO lived right on the water and the owner before him lived in new york and the truck sat a lot

 

I'm surprised whomever replaced the frame didn't do the brake lines. They're supposed to be replaced along with the frame.

 

Give those rotors some wire brush love.

 

10.4 Mr.Bee

Toyota replaced the frame... and yes they did install new fuel lines and brake lines back in 2016. I don't know exactly how they got so rusty.
Toyota should have replaced the lines with stainless steel IMO. It's not that expensive.

I have inspected the rest of the lines and they appear to be in perfect condition since they were replaced with the frame and located higher up.

 

I got the new hydraulic line and it's an exact match. Installing it took me about 3 hours. That was not fun at all.
Now I'm having problems with the clutch pedal. It just slams to the floor and stays there. I have the bleeder open on the slave, the master resevuar full and the back of the truck jacked up to level out the master cyl. I've been pumping the pedal like crazy but still nothing coming out of the bleeder....

 

Clutch need to open bleeder and paddle down then close bleeder and paddle up til you get fluid shoot out. 2 man job

 

I'm curious if all that rust on the driveshaft will present an issue anytime soon with any balancing or U-joint issues. Maybe not.

 

Let it gravity feed for an hour and then hooked up the bottle and fluttered the pedal down at the bottom a bunch and then the fluid started to flow. I got it now

Flushing out the old fluid

Pumping pedal from bottom

 

That's no issue

 

One man army here

 

The truck is about to leave the driveway for the first time: