New steering wheel

I can't find the seller a1_auto, only a1 auto lighting in the search. Link to them?

Found them: https://www.ebay.com/usr/a1_auto

 

Awesome. I was just about to send you the same link. It likely doesn't show any items for sale since they are listed as away. I was able to google search and found results for some of their listings.

 

The wheel looks great! Will be interested to hear your thoughts on how it holds up. I like the perforated leather.

I went with the Tufskins carbon but chose the domed version. I thought I was the only one who doesn't care for the AGT stuff. The nice thing about Tufskins is its actual carbon fiber, as many aftermarket overlays are just printed CF look. A side benefit of the domed is its soft touch, which helps soften the hard plastic feel a bit in that area. I went back and forth as well, the matte felt a bit one dimensional, like just a sticker. You can see the difference in the domed pic below.

 

So....

Followed the video and got to the 5:18 mark. "You're basically going to pull and wiggle...and there's your steering wheel."

Except mine had a jack in the box. Any idea how recoverable this is (as I'm frantically googling)?

 

I didn't pull and wiggle for that reason. I bought a steering wheel removal kit from AutoZone for $35.

That's going to be a pain since you'll have to figure out how to place the plastic ring back on and have enough slack on the ribbon cables to turn the steering wheel to the extreme left and right without putting stress on them.

No youtube videos?

 

Yeah, I'd strongly suggest the steering wheel removal kit.....

Looks like I'm going to try the video below or end up buying a new clock spring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8-WVzibZgI

 

Oh wow, sorry that happened. I have a new steering wheel to put on and I have watched the same video and was on the fence about getting the steering wheel puller, not any more. So basically in the picture below , what I have circled pulled out ?

 

Yeah, when I pulled the wheel off (took a lot of force), I had to have caught a yellow airbag wire which pulled the cover off the clock spring (what you have circled) and unwound it.

I got a heck of a deal ($50) on a TRD leather wrapped wheel, saved $35 by not buying a steering wheel puller, and I am only into it for a $760 OEM clock spring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPVLyB0Yc6I

 

I picked up a used one as well and have been holding off installing it even after watching all the videos, I seem to run into stuff like you did even when its suppose to be something easy.

 

Good lord.

Your post just guaranteed that I will NEVER remove the steering wheel from my truck for as long as I own it.

 

Oh, it's not so bad. I do wish to cross-post a bit (correct me if inappropriate). My current position, as indicated in another post, after rewinding what I thought was still a operable clock spring:

While removing the original steering wheel on my 2021 to replace with a leather steering wheel, I inadvertently popped open the clock spring cover and of course unwound it. It looked like there was not damage and I was able to wind it back and finish installing the new steering wheel.

However, now I get errors on almost everything possible (BSM, TRAC, PCS, LDS, Headlights, Trailer Brake, etc). Any ideas on whether or not a damaged clock spring could be responsible for all of these errors?

I would assume it would have to be the clock spring as I didn't touch anything else. I have left the battery disconnected for at least 30 minutes, removed airbag, steering wheel and check all connections to airbag and clock spring and they look good.

 

Its possible, yes. The clock spring is just wiring to all the steering wheel buttons, so an open on any of the circuits to the wheel may cause a sort of bulk alarm signal. The LDS, TSS both are in that circuit and could cause what youre seeing.

Do you happen to remember if you unplugged the center plug before pulling the wheel, as thats the only way I could see it pulling to cover off the spring itself. Otherwise, you may simply just have bad luck.

I would purchase a replacement and replace it. Easier that troubleshooting it really.

 

Also, a FYI for anyone pulling the wheel, if you loosen the retaining nut on the center spindle you can wiggle it without fear of popping it off. Once its wiggled to the point it isnt bound you can then just slide the wheel off. The issue is the tolerance of the opening and the spindle itself. Pulling it by hand results in it being pulled at an angle which kind of binds it further. Once enough of the socket on the wheel is off it has more room for slop and moves easily.

 

Thank you. I did find the eBay seller by chance, but several attempts to find him using eBay search, came up negative. That’s odd. He does not list any Tundra wheels at this time (2/7/21). I left message inquiring same. He has another post that states he’s a “Revesol dealer,” so he is the right contact. Revesol makes most of these wheels and they’re excellent quality. Vivid Racing makes their proprietary wheels and IMO, close examination of pics, I can see their wheel thickness appears irregular, stitching is uneven, etc. Revesol is best. *Is the 3rd gen steering wheel interchangeable with 2nd gen (my truck)?* Thanks again.

 

I did have everything disconnected. Dumb/bad luck. Had I used a steering wheel puller or just left the center nut on by a couple of threads, the whole problem could have been avoided.

Good news, is that a new clock spring resolved all of the electrical issues!

If you're considering replacing your steering wheel, don't let my mishap deter you! It's a simple process and with a bit of precaution you can easily avoid how it went for me.

 

So I decided to try and take off my steering wheel today so I could paint the controls. Watched a couple of videos, seemed straight forward. Apparently I am not meant to do mods as I could not get the air bag removed. I loosened both screws with a 30 bit torx and the airbag would not come out. I thought maybe I didn't loosen them enough so I did some more but it seems like they are at the point that they are just spinning now, airbag still won't come out. What am I not doing correctly ?

Edit - I did find another video that showed using needle nose pliers to pull the screw out a little to release the airbag. Will give that a shot and see if I have better luck

 

The whole center/horn area should pop right off after loosing screws.
Double check that you’ve removed everything you’re are supposed to, battery is disconnected and then give it a good pull.

 

Airbag screws are captive in a thin plastic seat so they shouldn’t come out all the way. Once loose try pulling on the top of the airbag, it seats in a downward way so pulling on the top is easier.

 

Nice looking steering wheel

 

So the needle nose pliers did the trick, got the airbag out. Decided since I got the controls out might as well do the steering wheel swap with the one I got from @Elduder . Was a bit of a learning experience but I got the old wheel off ( used a steering wheel puller thanks to @nowdeprecated experience) painted the controls and then put them on the new wheel. One question before I put it back on as I didn't think to look. Is the space below on each side normal between the back plastic and the control pieces? There are only 4 screws and they are all in to attach the controls back and I believe I have the back panel on correct so I am not seeing a way to get them closer.

 

VIVIDRACING https://www.vividracing.com/toyota-...ed-customized-steering-wheel-p-152408188.html sells them also.

Was just looking this up coincidentally enough.

 

Decided the spacing was normal or close to it so went ahead and put it on. Think it came out pretty decent.

 

I see what ya did there

 

For you guys who have the revesol from eBay, which do you recommend? I like the all leather steering whee but I’m afraid of over time peeling like the stock steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. Do you guys think the carbon fiber one will last more then the all leather steering wheel?

 

I don’t have the Revesol wheel but I have seen plenty of carbon fiber pieces that with time the UV rays tear them up. Me personally, I went the Tacoma steering wheel swap route.

 

My Revesol is the leather one with the red stripe. Has about 11k miles on it and is almost a year old. Still looks new.

 

Oem leather steering wheel from tacomas fits perfectly and its all black leather, no wood, plastic, carbon fiber.

 

Looking to do this as my stock 90k wheel is looking used. Found these on FB- anyone have one?

 

how’s it holding up? I’m undecided with the all leather or the carbon fiber one. How’s the carbon fiber holding? I’m more of a 12 o’clock driver so my steering wheel is starting to show wear.

 

I traded my double cab in last September, after nearly a year and a half with the leather Revesol it looked brand new.

I just bought and installed another leather Revesol in my crewmax and it looks just as good as my last one. These wheels are a serious deal at $250. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy or recommend one.