New Drivers side window switch set-up

Hey all, After a major Texas rainstorm, where my window was partly down, the drivers side window switch would only operate the drivers window, not the other three. Figured it was the switch so I called Toyota (what a laugh..750.00 for the switch). Ended up getting a known good assembly and installed it. Same problem, HUMmmm.
What is the procedure for initiating a new switch?
Thanks in advance,
Bubba TEX

 

Just to be 100% positive, sorry if this seems like a stupid question:

The symptoms you describe are exactly what happens if you accidentally tap the lockout button. Are you 100% sure the lockout button isn't engaged? (Believe me, you wouldn't be the 1st)

Also, do the windows work on the other 3 doors using their dedicated controls while they won't work on the driver's side? Just trying to think through things that may be happening.

I'm having trouble trying to understand why water inside would cause the issue you describe, based on how things are wired together under the cover plate. But if it happened with two, I guess it potentially ain't the switch...

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Thanks for the suggestion. The lock switch wiring may be the problem. You are right about the switch getting wet, my next guess is a short on the harness or where it goes out of the door. The other switches all work at each door. It is just this master that is messed.
The quest continues...

 

Have you had the door card off yet, or has all of your work thus far had the door card intact?

When was the last time the windshield was replaced, if ever?

Are the rubber bulb seals up and around the door frame intact, no rips when you squeeze them?

Does the truck have a non-OEM dealer-installed alarm (like KARR, or SECURIKEY+) or even an aftermarket alarm?

I ask because there's not a lot of connections made between the control panel and the driver's side kick panel. Not sure on the double cabs, but my access cab has 2-3 connections on the back, I think that combines into the main door harness, and I don't think there's another connection until it passes through the jamb and behind the kickpanel. That kinda makes it easy, if you needed to test for continuity from the kick panel to the control board, most DMM should have leads long enough.

Near the top of this thread, like 4-5 paragraphs in, you'll find a series of links to various documents and info. There's a link for EWDs (elec. wiring diagrams). I recommend pulling it, and note that it's broken out into sections, I think one big section for access/regular cab trucks, another for double cabs. It may offer some insight into which wires you'll want to test, although I think you may want to confirm continuity on all of them.

Weird part for me is this on the water, and why I made a specific comment in the last thread: There should be no power or limited power to the control pad, so not much to short out when wet. There would be at least some signal or power on the locking circuit for safety purposes, but not the window circuit UNLESS someone installed an alarm or added a relay somewhere.

The reason I ask about windshield/door seals leaking is (A) there's a known issue with windshield and/or A-pillar leaks allowing water to get into the in-dash fusebox and (B) either one could ultimately send water down into the bulkheads behind the driver's kickpanel. If this were me, popping off that kick panel would be one of the 1st things I'd be doing, to inspect for signs of water. Trucks this old should have some dust on the floor, and water trails sometimes show ...