New amp fixed crappy JBL system

It seems dead. I thought about getting an amp. I still might this summer but will likely grab a LC7i sound processor to go between that and the factory amp to "clean up" the sound.

 

Pudge did you try a Phoenix Android HU?

 

No I don't have plans to change my head unit. No money for that

 

This was all hype. Can I get a refund?

 

Is this dead and buried? Can someone explain to a new owner of a 2018 Limited DC why it is so hard to amplify and add a sub to my truck?

Thanks

 

It’s hard if you have jbl. It’s not if you don’t. If you don’t run it through a processor though you’re just amplifying the bad signal from the head unit.

There are many posts on here of people that have updated their system. This post the guy said he took out the factory amp In a jbl system and added a new one which is impossible so that is why he got flack.

 

Thanks for the rec! I had some B.B. rewards points and decided to pick one up along with the harness and amp install kit. I just finished the installation and it is night and day!

I also got the Alpine 6.5” component set so I’m going to install those tomorrow along with some Ballistic sound dampening on the doors.

The amp alone was an amazing upgrade on the sound and an easy installation.

 

I'm going to ask some questions here. Not trying to stir old emotions from this dead thread.....I have an 18 Tundra with JBL. I am looking at keeping the HU and factory speakers/sub. A local shop says I can replace the factory amp with a DSR1 Fosgate and attach a new amp to that. The DSR will receive the data bus signal from the factory HU, process it and send it out to the new amp. Anybody try this setup or heard of it? Any info will help fellas. Thanks.

 

I'm no expert on this topic, but I remember reading @TundraTex talk about the DSR1 recently:
See this: 130

 

Thank you sir!

I've been looking into both of those pieces. The Kenwood in an all in one piece. But it's almost 750 plus the data link. Ads up quickly.

The fosgate.... Less expensive but seems to have better reviews plus you can add in your own amp. I'm thinking of going this route. I just hope the factory speakers come to life and don't blow up.

 

I am using a DSR1 with the idatalink T-harness for full plug and play install. It allows full removal of the factory amp. Make sure they update the firmware and do the bluetooth update to the module. From the DSR1 to have 2 JL amps..

 

Did you retain all your warning sounds, Bluetooth phone, nav and all that.

Also 2 amps for the 12 speakers? And did you keep the factory speakers?.

Sorry bombard with a bunch of questions. You are the first person I've heard of to actually use that set up thank you very much for the information. Thanks man!

 

I have not noticed any loss of function - warning beeps work, nav works, bluetooth calls work better - I don't have to turn the call volume up to 50+.

I have the 3 dash speakers disconnected currently, I have replaced them with some JL tweeters, but need a small amp to power them properly.

I have replaced all door speakers with JL C5 and C2 components and have 2 10" JL W1 subs.

After I dynamatted the doors, inside and out, the factory speakers did sound a lot better before I replaced them. I was still powering them from the factory amp too

 

Sounds good! I'll start with the dsr and one amp. Hoping everything works well with that setup. Sounds like you've dropped a few bucks in that system.

Thank you for the info. Glad dsr works like advertised.

 

Or just replace the factory sub with a kicker 2 ohm sub and keep everything else stock. sounds MUCH better than stock.

 

Based on your recommendation I’m definitely gonna try this out. It’s a 1 ohm sub, right? For the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81 ?

 

Have a part number?

 

Kicker CompRT 8”
Part # 43CWRT81 is 1-Ohm sub
Part #

$300 43CWRT82 KICKER CompRT8 8" (20cm) Subwoofer, DVC, 2-Ohm, 300W

43CWRT82 is 2-Ohm sub

@carman can you confirm which one you used? You said you used the 2ohm but in another threat you mentioned part # 43CWRT81

 

So are we saying that just pulling out the JBL sub and replacing it with this kicker sub makes a lot of difference? With no other modifications? That's very intriguing if that's the case.

 

No personal experience with any of the intergration units, but just i just wanted to let you know of another option. Its from PAC audio, the AmpPro 4. Its definitely worth comparing to the fosgate.

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ty12

Edit:
Does the kicker's 2.5 inch depth pretty much as deep as the sub can be for the enclosure? Just curious cause the previous kicker shallow sub (cvt) had a interesting mounting setup that let the magnet set into the mdf like a half inch.
For a shallow sub, the cvt was legit. did a couple custom enclosure installs that where way louder than they should have been.

 

I bought the 1 ohm sub
(Kicker CompRT 8” Part # 43CWRT81) but now need to know if I need the 2 ohm? Does anyone know? Thanks

 

Pretty sure it only comes in a dual voice coil configuration. Just remember to wire the sub in series.

If you're not sure how to do that then check out kickers web site. They have a good visual display you can use to reference, or a few pages back i think there was a pic posted.

 

I see it’s been awhile since this thread has been active. Has anyone hooked up an aftermarket amp from a line out sick as the audio control lc2 just for some subs on the jbl system?

 

Well this thread has givin me hope! But to answer your ? All I did on mine was completely remove the stock sub, housing and back wall. I replaced the back wall with a non-jbl panel. I know that Sub-Thump has gotten some bad reviews on these forums, but I got the one I ordered 2 weeks exactly after I ordered it . Seems like it’s well made. Anyway all I did was tap into the existing sub wires , convert to rca cables and hook them up to my amp. JL AUDIO HD1000 and 2 10” JL 10w3 shallow mount subs . I’ve got them wired in series so there 4 ohms and both getting 300 watts from amp. Sounds great

 

Wow. I just read this whole thread. DOES IT WORK OR NAH? lol.

 

I am just going to go with *********.
I cant listen to music in my truck because I hate the sound of it.

Another 1700.00 goes in the truck...

 

James at tech12volts could probably do a much better system for less than $1700, probably half that if you're keeping the headunit.

 

It bothers me soooooo damn much! but I need other more important things (sliders, compressor, racks, storage, armor, etc.) before I can even think about sound.
A nice cheap fix would hold me over but oh well.

 

Whole thread, after reading through it all, leaves you feeling like you just walked out of a seedy New Orleans Peep Show...LOL

 

It's a little difficult to figure out what is needed. They have a complete package for a crew max but only goes up to 2017.

They have parts for a 2019 but looks like I have to add some things. Not sure what to add.

When I contacted them they asked what I was looking to do and I said to make sound better and i am pretty new to sound.

Talked to them about a 2019 and they said the package they have is best for the 2019 but doesnt come with half of what the 2017 does.

They may want to concentrate on the super mods like electric seats etc then a peon like me just wanting better sound which is their wheelhouse.

I think I would rather spend the extra money and get support.