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Need To Level Front - But need 3" & WISDOM

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by LiftMeUp, Sep 23, 2016.

  1. Sep 23, 2016 at 11:02 AM
    #1
    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    I have a 2013 Crewmax 2WD (no packages but 20" stock wheels) and aiming for the leveled look. I'm running 275/60/20s and it's all highway miles, no off road driving and not planning on going much bigger if at all on tires. I'm also on a budget.

    I have measured (I know this is not the best way) my rake and I'm coming up with the rear being about 3.5" higher than the front. I'm measuring from center wheel to fender.

    So I'm figuring for roughly $100 - $125 I can get a set of strut spacers and put on front and be close to level.
    I know most here advise against the spacers and a lot opt for the adjustable 5100s. But that would only give me 2.25" at highest setting.

    Words of wisdom?
     
  2. Sep 23, 2016 at 2:58 PM
    #2
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    3" Rough Country Level lift (front) 1" Toytec block (rear) 275/70r18 Toyo AT2 Info system mod 3D MAXpider Kagu floor mats LED interior lights 50% ceramic tint front windows 35% ceramic tint windshield brow Bed mounted YETI bottle opener Paracord wrapped oh Sh!t bars 3" stubby antennae Upcoming: LED backup lights/cargo lights OEM Backup camera Raceline Raptor? 18x9 wheels ICI magnum step bars TRD sway bar Toytec BOSS 3" suspension lift Trifold or roll up tonneau cover Tow mirrors????
    I've seen guys put bilsteins with a couple of CB shims on top. Seems to do just fine. But if it were me, (and it is) I'd save up some more money and do it right the first time by upgrading your suspension. (Went spacer lift and regret it)

    Also, I'd still get some shackles for the back. 2nd gen body styles are weird when it comes to leveling. Even when completely level, it looks nose high bc of the hood bump and rounded edges. My rake sits at 1.25 and it looks perfectly leveled.
     
    zcarpenter92 and MotoTundra like this.
  3. Sep 23, 2016 at 7:43 PM
    #3
    MotoTundra

    MotoTundra Adrenaline Addict

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    I've never splurged for a lift, done some research though. I agree with @Law323
     
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  4. Sep 23, 2016 at 7:48 PM
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    matluth

    matluth Fish On!

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    No spacers. Do it right. [​IMG]
     
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  5. Sep 24, 2016 at 7:22 PM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    So what is the right way to do it. Once again, within limits?

    So Law, how high did you go on front and on back? Any pics so I can see the 'level' look?
     
  6. Sep 24, 2016 at 8:13 PM
    #6
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    Suspension lift and shackles (I'm getting the Toytec BOSS system as soon as I can cough up the cash)
    Right now I have rough country 3/1 (had to use the rough country 3 inch spacers for the front and Toytec 1 inch blocks for the back) ride is horrible but it's a good height although, I wouldn't mind going an inch or two higher front and back.

    With second gen tundras, the body style is weird, even when measurements are perfectly level, it looks nose high which is why I put the 1 inch block in back now my rake sits at 1.25" in back.
    image.jpg

    Even with the slight rake, it looks perfectly level doesn't it?
     
  7. Sep 25, 2016 at 6:23 AM
    #7
    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    That's pretty much the perfect look I'm going for in the picture. And that's with a 1.25" in front? Nice. So basically on this you have the 3" strut spacer in front and 1" block in rear. What was your factory rake?

    The system you plan on going with, how much is that going to run?
     
  8. Sep 25, 2016 at 6:30 AM
    #8
    BlueBottle

    BlueBottle New Member

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    care to share why your ride is horrible? is it the 3" spacer up front or the 1" block? Is it bouncy? What exactly?
     
  9. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:25 AM
    #9
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    It's the 3" spacer in front. It makes the ride much harsher. I'd say it's because of the different ride geometry and the OEM shocks aren't made for that kind of lift.

    The blocks are fine but the safer and more functional option is shackles. They put less stress on your axles, prevents axel wrap, and you run no risk of a cracked block
     
  10. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:36 AM
    #10
    BlueBottle

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    Thanks for the insight. Now I'm worried. I have LRO 3" on the way. I ordered CB +3 for the rears. Yeah that's what I was worried about the most was that the geometry is changed when pushing the shock bodies down like that. I wonder if UCA's will improve the ride at all?

    Wish money wasn't an object and I'd just go straight to coilovers...
     
  11. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:54 AM
    #11
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    3" Rough Country Level lift (front) 1" Toytec block (rear) 275/70r18 Toyo AT2 Info system mod 3D MAXpider Kagu floor mats LED interior lights 50% ceramic tint front windows 35% ceramic tint windshield brow Bed mounted YETI bottle opener Paracord wrapped oh Sh!t bars 3" stubby antennae Upcoming: LED backup lights/cargo lights OEM Backup camera Raceline Raptor? 18x9 wheels ICI magnum step bars TRD sway bar Toytec BOSS 3" suspension lift Trifold or roll up tonneau cover Tow mirrors????
    Are those above coil spacers or the kind that you have to install with a coil conprssor?
     
  12. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:58 AM
    #12
    BlueBottle

    BlueBottle New Member

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    All 3" is above the coil.
     
  13. Sep 25, 2016 at 11:26 AM
    #13
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    If you stick with the pavement princess route and watch the potholes, you'll be okay until you upgrade your suspension.

    I do that, I even go off-road to my hunting and fishing camp. Just take it slow and dont take any risky moves. You'll be okay for the time being.

    Good move on the shackles.
     
  14. Sep 25, 2016 at 11:36 AM
    #14
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    No off-road and street only go with the split spacers (part in coil and part over coil) or bilstein 5100s
     
  15. Sep 25, 2016 at 12:41 PM
    #15
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    When I say off-road in regards to my spacers, I mean a very mild trail with a few puddles here and there. Hardly consider that "off-road"
     
  16. Sep 25, 2016 at 1:36 PM
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    BlueBottle

    BlueBottle New Member

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    Yeah this truck will see 95% concrete. Other 5% will be going up to the snow or camping. I'll just save for some good coilovers later.
     
  17. Sep 25, 2016 at 1:36 PM
    #17
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    Probably the smartest move.
     
  18. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:18 PM
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    Tundracm16

    Tundracm16 New Member

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    So I'm wondering why everyone is against level blocks? I have done some decent research on the matter and found most are trash but the lro-lrt is one of the best if not the best in the market. They have really put some time in the engineering to this set it comes with everything to put the geometry back in order including a angled rear block to realign the rear. I agree that the 5100s are most likely the best but I've talked with several guys who have done the lrt 3-1 at Toyota dealerships for included add ons and they say the way this one is designed it has very little affect on the geometry and stock shocks if you have the trd off road bilstiens factory. Anyone out there that has this kit can chime in on the matter and let us know how if feels compared to the stock trd package that would be great. Money wise aside being the lrt kit and the 5100s are close to same price. I guess it comes down to being able to install the lrt will simple tools. Just my 2cents I was leaning towards the lrt myself but 3 might be higher than I want so I may just go 5100s but would love some more thoughts on this subject. Thanks all that chime in.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2016
  19. Sep 26, 2016 at 1:01 PM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    So, with 3" on front and 1" on back and with a 1.25" rake now, before anything was done you had about 3.25" higher in rear that front right? What is the best way to measure the factory rake in order to see what I may need. I like the height and look on the truck you posted.
     
  20. Sep 26, 2016 at 1:05 PM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    See, I'm kinda in the same boat, new to this but have looked at it numerous times and everyone that has block and even the spacers don't report any problems. I know the other ways are probably the better route and hence the increase in price. I was just looking for the level look and it's all going to be highway miles. So I was leaning towards the strut spacer and getting away rather inexpensively. But at the same time, want to hear the reason why one way over the other and problems, benefits, etc.

    So is the LRO-LRT a good way to go if you don't have the TRD and Bilstien shocks?

    I've read that you should go with the 5100s and use shims to make up the difference in height that I need, but then that just sounds like the same argument people make against the strut spacers.
     
  21. Sep 26, 2016 at 1:41 PM
    #21
    16tunterd

    16tunterd New Member

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    For 2wd there are Max Trac lift spindles. I don't know anything about 'em but seems like it might be a really good way to get lift, and not mess with ride quality.
     
  22. Sep 26, 2016 at 1:55 PM
    #22
    Law323

    Law323 Pray for peace, prepare for war

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    If I remember correctly the rake pre lift was about exactly 3 inches or around that. I lost a little bit of front height due to the shocks setting. Best way is measure from the top of the tire to bottom of the fender or from center of the hub to fender. Just have to find a level place to park it. Grades will load or unload shocks more or less depending on which direction.

    I would measure right after and about a week or two after. The front shocks will settle a little bit, so a loss of about half an inch is normal. I lost about a quarter of an inch or so

    Thanks brother, not done with the truck yet!! Plenty more mods I want to do!
     
  23. Sep 26, 2016 at 2:59 PM
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    Tundracm16

    Tundracm16 New Member

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    @LiftMeUp as far as I can
    The only thing I can figure is it a love or hate relationship when it comes to spacers and blocks. I talked to several guys that have them and have had no problems at all and would and have done them over again. This to me is huge debate with people. I think if the truck is mostly a pavement prowler there is no problem with the spacers if they are the better ones on the market And from what I can find the aluminum ones are the best option. Steel and plastic just doesn't cut it on theses set ups no matter how much the savings. I've owned several trucks that I have lifted different ways, true full lifts, torsion lifts, and back when I got out of hs and broke I used the twist in knuckles in the coils. And besides the later they all felt and performed the same. I am by know means saying you can go rock crawling with blocks in but I didn't pay 40+k for a to beat it to death off roading, the lro-lrt gets the best first person reviews and I have yet to find someone dissatisfied. And with a lot of the horror stories out there about spacers I wonder how many were cheap sets,incorrect set ups or exceeding the product limits. As far as the trd off road bilstiens the lrt kit works the same on nons just as well you just get a little better ride out of the trd off road ones to start.
     
  24. Sep 27, 2016 at 5:57 AM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    I've email several shops in several different cities and asked questions about the blocks and spacers and none have really had anything bad to say at all. They all sell different types of lift, etc, and none have steered me in the other directions. I did have one say the better option would be the 5100s but that they installed spacers and blocks all the time.

    For me, it basically comes down to maybe spending $125 on strut spacers or 1400 on something like a BOSS system. Which in that case I couldn't spend that much so I would go without. If it were off roading, etc, then yeay, but simply for the look, I just can't justify I don't think.

    So, aluminum is the way to go if I go that route? I was wondering between the say BDS or Zone Offroad spacers or something along the lines of the LRO or similar billets.

    I know most prefer the shackles in the rear but once again, the CB is in the upper price range. So is it better to go with a block or other shackle. I'm only talking 1" in the rear. Thanks.
     
  25. Sep 27, 2016 at 6:41 AM
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    Tundracm16

    Tundracm16 New Member

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    Yeah I get the same from shops and such around here and I have yet to find someone that is so against them that has given real insight into why not to do it. Back before I went tundra I bought a Chevy avalanche in 01 it was the new model for the 02s after awhile I did some looking into lifts everyone I found said don't do a torsion bar lift you will ruin the truck but the funny thing was I would see reviews of people who bought them and they would be good, so I put them on. 176k later and never had one problem related to the lift I have even run into the person who bought it and they have put almost another 50k and the lift is still in tack.I come to the realization that no one will ever agree on the subject so I get as much info as I can and make my own decisions and mine is going blocks and spacers. I weighed the options and for me for a truck that sits in the driveway most of the time I can't justify the expense of a boss or trd pro shocks if I was going to dump that kind of money into it I would have got the pro in the fist place.

    Yeah it looks like aluminum is the best but as previously noted it coming to a point where who the hell knows it come into play. My buddy has a 2gen with aluminum fronts and a block in the back and he has a hard 287+k on his it's fine, he tows a 35 foot trailer, beats it during the week in construction sites and if I'm not mistaken only on the second set of shocks and not because of the lift.

    Yeah Im going blocks personally,like you said its 1" I don't think at that small shackles or block it make any difference.
    I really like the Lrt kit it just seems better engineered than others but again that's my 2cents.
     
  26. Sep 27, 2016 at 7:11 AM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, I'm kinda leaning towards the LRT myself. Just look like they are the most solid and most mentioned. I haven't really seen any one say anything or recommend the BDS or Zone Offroad. LRO just looks solid. My only concern is that I will only need the front spacers, I wish they sold the front and rear separately. My intention was to raise the entire truck but also wanted that level look. Then I measure the rake and saw it was nearly 3.5" higher in the rear so now not sure I need a block in the back. I've read the best way to measure is to find a straight line, like frame, but not sure how to go about measure to be accurate.

    Plus, my original plan was to have the kit put on at a shop. The only local one sells BDS and Zone.

    Not sure how hard it would be to install with me and a buddy. Also, not sure how much it would cost to have someone else put on.

    Only other question would be alignment. I know a lot of the shops do the alignments which I would think would be better since they mess with this all the time versus a tire place?
     
  27. Sep 27, 2016 at 7:26 AM
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    chphilo

    chphilo New Member

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    There are a lot of guys without any issues with spacers. But from time to time, you get situations like this one. As I remember, the owner broke this going over a pothole. The problem with spacers is, your strut becomes effectively the bump stop.

    By the way, Bilstein 5100 is not that much more than spacers, well a lot cheaper than fixing your truck when something breaks.
    BrokenStrut OEM on Truxx leveling kit.jpg
     
  28. Sep 27, 2016 at 7:42 AM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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  29. Sep 27, 2016 at 7:44 AM
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    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp [OP] New Member

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    So, what is your suggestion. Seems like you're not impressed with the 5100s over the spacers?

    I have read where another option is to go with the 5100s up front but put the setting somewhere in the middle and then use shims to make up the extra height to get to 3". This way you're not maxing out the shock and with shims still getting the height needed.

    Anyone with this setup or insight?
     
  30. Sep 27, 2016 at 7:51 AM
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    Tundracm16

    Tundracm16 New Member

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    I've seen some of this and wonder if the ones this happens on lower the bump stop? If you look closely at the pic the bumpstop is still at factory.The Lro-lrt kit puts the bumpstop back at corrected travel.
     
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