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Need some advice on a repair for P0418

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by *D*, May 19, 2019.

  1. May 19, 2019 at 2:52 PM
    #1
    *D*

    *D* [OP] New Member

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    Dimitri
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    So I signed up with this forum yesterday strictly to ask about the problem I just ran into. I got a check engine light (P0418). The truck is performing normally. With everything I’ve read on here, it seems to me that my valve may be stuck open. I have also learned that this system is only necessary at start up, and means nothing in terms of emissions and performance when the truck is warmed up. I’ve read up on the bypass kits, doing the repair yourself, and the repeat failures of the replaced AIP. My question is, did I dodge the bullet here- or is my truck going to go into limp mode one day?

    There is more to this story, because I suspect an electrical or a computer problem. 3 weeks ago, I let the dealership replace both front and rear pads and rotors. The next day, all the lights came on on the dash (VSC, ABS, 4 HI, etc). I brought it back and they told me it was the rear wheel speed sensor. I checked both rear sensors and wiring, and everything was fine. Driving around later that day, I got a rough idle, flickering dash lights, and a stall. I knew it was the battery, so I replaced it along with the lugs and hold down (major corrosion! They couldn’t have pointed that out to me?) I also replaced a broken ground strap on the transmission near the speed sensor harness. That issue with the ABS has since been corrected, but I can’t help but think that the failing battery made the computer go wacky. The truck is 12 years old and has had a minimum of problems. It seems like too much of a coincidence that all these things happened together.
     
  2. May 19, 2019 at 3:36 PM
    #2
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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  3. May 19, 2019 at 3:44 PM
    #3
    *D*

    *D* [OP] New Member

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    I haven’t! There’s a lot of homework there. I’ll check it out. Thanks.
     
  4. May 26, 2019 at 9:16 AM
    #4
    *D*

    *D* [OP] New Member

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    I have read through a lot of the links above, and most of that is stuff I researched or ran into before posting. I’m still not clear if the truck is going to go into limp mode though. Seems it doesn’t happen to everyone (this is starting to sound like a conversation you have with your doctor- did they have to call it limp mode?). Another thing I’m not clear on, is why would the engine limit power while driving, if this system is only needed at start up?
     
  5. May 26, 2019 at 9:25 AM
    #5
    Tierhog

    Tierhog SIG-AHOLIC

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    You have almost 250 hits and three replies.. I'd wager you have people's interest but they simply don't have advice, need more codes, or would need to do some research and couple it with personal experiences to provide a meaningful reply.

    I'm reading on the link.. Curious.
     
    JohnLakeman likes this.
  6. Jan 4, 2020 at 3:48 AM
    #6
    jimig

    jimig New Member

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    2010 Sequoia with 5.7 here.

    CEL came on with the P0418 code but not in limp mode.
    Every link I looked has not explained to me what I need to replace.
    Where is the AIP located on this thing?
     
  7. Jan 4, 2020 at 4:22 AM
    #7
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Charlottetown, PE, Canada
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    In my first gen, it did go to limp mode very briefly, but I carry a scanner to erase the code. I did it for a few thousand miles and it never came back. In the fist gen it's under the intake manifold. Second gen I believe is behind the motor and water gets into it casing it to seize.

    AIP

    Watch the video
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2020
  8. Jan 5, 2020 at 4:09 PM
    #8
    jimig

    jimig New Member

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    *UPDATE*

    First off, I didn't take any pics, so apologies for that.

    The AIP turns out, is located behind the passenger side fender.
    Bought new grommets for the plastic liner and a off brand pump from Amazon.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B638VF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YTQYDVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    I followed a couple youtube links on pulling the liner off, 4 screws (12mm) that hold the bracket for both pumps, disconnect 2 hoses and 2 plugs from up top, and pull it all through from the passenger side wheel well.

    Dealer wanted over $700 for each pump and about $300 for labor.
    All in for me was $100 and about 3 hrs of my time. Amazon next day Prime helped a ton as well.

    Easy work.

    Jim
     
    revtune and lex2go like this.

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