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Need help figuring out which part to replace

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by nocluewhattodo1988, Feb 15, 2022.

  1. Feb 15, 2022 at 1:13 PM
    #1
    nocluewhattodo1988

    nocluewhattodo1988 [OP] New Member

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    Hello, I'm here because I don't understand cars/trucks and especially the words mechanics use. My husband and I bought this 2002 Tundra from a mechanic over the summer. He used it as a work truck, so it's not pretty. It has 208558 miles. It recently started shaking at high speed and reving when idling. So we took it to the local Toyota dealership to have them diagnose the problem. Well they found lots of things. We went ahead and replaced the spark plugs on our own. Everyone we have asked for advice says to have the drive shaft done next. My problem is, I don't understand exactly what needs to be done. Do I need to replace the whole thing or just the support bushing (whatever that is...)? We just don't have the money to pay for what we don't need. So I want to make sure I know what I'm replacing but I can't figure it out. I've added the two pages of reports from the Toyota dealership that talk about the drive shaft needing replaced. They took an actual picture from our truck of what they are talking about. What specific parts do I need to do what they are talking about? Thanks for any advice!
    image1.jpg image0.jpg

    image0.jpg
     
  2. Feb 15, 2022 at 1:19 PM
    #2
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    That is the drive shaft center bearing. It is fairly easily replaced.

    Although in my experience, it can be in really bad condition, with the rubber completely torn out, without causing vibration.

    What does cause vibration, and is pretty common on high milage vehicles, is bad U-joints, which are fairly cheap and easily replaced if you have any mechanical skills.

    The driveshaft itself should never need to be replaced unless somehow heavily damaged.

    If you take the driveshaft out and give it to a driveline shop they will generally replace your U-joints, check the balance etc for a reasonable fee.
     
    bmf4069 and 5N0W808 like this.
  3. Feb 15, 2022 at 1:22 PM
    #3
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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  4. Feb 15, 2022 at 1:24 PM
    #4
    Buckaroo

    Buckaroo New Member

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    When lots of things need attention, it can be hard to figure out the root cause of the problem. Can cost a lot of $$ to work down the list, particularly at a Dealership so good you are asking questions. How does the shaking at high speed change when you are coasting vs lightly accelerating vs heavy accelerating?. How about when you brake - does the shaking change? Is the check engine light illuminated? Do you have the V8 or the 3.4L V6 engine?
     
  5. Feb 15, 2022 at 1:29 PM
    #5
    nocluewhattodo1988

    nocluewhattodo1988 [OP] New Member

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    Ok, wow thanks for the info. Maybe I should have put on there that they want to charge us $725 to do this. Does that change anything about your advice?
    IMG_3796.jpg
     
  6. Feb 15, 2022 at 1:38 PM
    #6
    nocluewhattodo1988

    nocluewhattodo1988 [OP] New Member

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    When lots of things need attention, it can be hard to figure out the root cause of the problem. Can cost a lot of $$ to work down the list, particularly at a Dealership so good you are asking questions. How does the shaking at high speed change when you are coasting vs lightly accelerating vs heavy accelerating?. How about when you brake - does the shaking change? Is the check engine light illuminated? Do you have the V8 or the 3.4L V6 engine?


    ^^^^^Sorry I'm not sure how to respond to specific reply's on here. Here's my answers to your questions. First I have to say, it's my husbands truck so I don't drive it much and he's not here for me to ask right now. I think the shaking is mainly while accelerating (probably lightly? I don't think he pushes the gas pedal too hard). I don't think the shaking happens while braking, it seems random to me. It also seemed to stop for the first day after we put new spark plugs in, not sure if that matters. I can ask my husband these questions later if that helps. The check engine light is on, but the mechanic we bought it from said it was from the O2 sensor not working or something that wasn't necessary to fix? We have a V8 engine.
     
  7. Feb 15, 2022 at 2:31 PM
    #7
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    The center bearing is a $50 part at the most, maybe an hour of work to fix if you or your husband is handy with tools. Its by no means worth $750 to repair.

    Now that I see your code, its a pre-converter O2 sensor. These can also cause shaking, and poor running. This is not a sensor that can be ignored, but an important one. Fix that first. I had to place a bet on what was causing your problems, I would bet on the 02 sensor.


    FYI, the rear O2 sensors just monitor how well your catalytic converter is working. You can ignore them forever if you're in a non-emissions regulated state, but the FRONT or pre-converter sensor tells your engine how much fuel it needs and will cause all manner of problems if not working.

    The timing belt and water pump issues are very important, if the timing belt breaks, it will very likely completely destroy the engine. If the engine leaks out too much coolant, or the water pump seizes, that can also destroy the engine.

    The power steering hose leaks just depend on how bad they are. If you don't mind putting more fluid in every once in a while, they are fine. The ones my truck have been leaking for years. Someday I will fix them but so far its not worth it.

    In order, I would fix:

    o2 Sensor.
    center bearing
    Replace timing belt and water pump.

    The timing belt is the most critical, if it fails, but also the most expensive. The 02 sensor and center bearing are easy fixes and likely what is causing your symptoms. At the same time you replace the center bearing, the U joints can be checked.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2022
  8. Mar 19, 2023 at 11:49 AM
    #8
    old dude

    old dude New Member

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    Just a heads up on possible problem replacing the center support bearing- I started getting an intermittent vibration definitely driveline related. U joints we ok but the rubber bushing for the center bearing seemed a little mushy so I decided to change the carrier bearing. I think I'm a pretty competent mechanic and have a well equipped shop so i figured it would be an easy fix for just a $40 after market part. No so fast! Could not separate the yoke from the spline on the front shaft after removing the 30mm nut. Big puller, heat, finally a 30 ton press. Wound up replacing the entire driveshaft. Ouch$$$ FYI make sure you use a 6 point socket not 12 the nut is very shallow and you will probably round it off trying to use a 12 point.
     
  9. Mar 19, 2023 at 12:12 PM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` Louisiana Saturday Night

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    (see signature for truck info)
    Did it fix the vibration? Most of the time replacing carrier bearing doesn't seem to fix vibration for anyone that's visited the last few years. At least not on the 2000-2006 Tundras, which is what this subforum is for. If this is for the 2011 in your truck details, you may want to post this reply in the correct forum for 2nd gen trucks. Your reply could really confuse the hell out of someone.
     
  10. Mar 19, 2023 at 4:38 PM
    #10
    old dude

    old dude New Member

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    Thought I was on the 2nd gen site. New to the forum and how to navigate. Been a little over a week now no vibration. Fingers crossed. My truck is 4wd 5.7 engine off road package. Te only mods are Bilstein adjustable ride hight shocks set for 2" lift on the front which were needed for the best geometry for my snow plow. FYI I have a lift in my shop and examined the underside thoroughly for any loose drive train components.
     
    shifty` likes this.

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