NAPA HD CV Upgrade

Thank you, I'll have to look for it when I get under there again. Is it also an allen... easy to access?
Wait... after looking at your pic, I think that's the 10mm allen I was referring to.

 

Beat me to it. Went out and got a picture too.

 

Yes. It is easy to get to - you may need a pump or transfer mechanism. Skid plate removal isn't necessary but makes it a tiny bit easier.

 

I've not had any trouble getting any of my drain or fill plugs off. I've serviced them twice since I've had it. But it was a Cali truck that lives in Arkansas now. No corrosion. Good allen wrench with the back end of a box or crescent wrench as a cheater usually does the job.

 

Thank you gentlemen. I'll give it a good try. If I can't get it, I'll bring it to a shop before I destroy it. Finger-dip method for checking level, correct?

 

I have transfer devices. Have a Skid Row plate which allows great access without removal.

 

While you're at it you should do your T-case too since it calls for the same stinky 75w-90. Super easy access - 24mm drain/fill plug.

Consensus seems to be fill until it overflows.

 

Mine was on there tight but I was able to get a small breaker bar in there and loosen it. You should be able to fit something in there with a long handle.

 

Agree, I will do that. Also agree that gear oil is super stinky. Fortunately coronaV destroyed my senses of smell and taste a few months ago.

 

This gives me a renewed optimism.

 

Use synthetic, not very stinky at all. I got a smashing deal on some Royal Purple 75-90 (13.99/qt) and bought 8 qts I think to do all three, front rear and transfer. I get 72mpg now with the lower friction from this expensive oil and 375 more HP to the wheels.

Ok, not really, but I feel better about using something labeled "synthetic". 'cause science!

 

Ugh I can smell the Lucas stuff just thinking about it. The 80w-90 for the rear isn't as bad. Something about the phosphorus content?

 

The tundra guru on facebook said to hit the allen bolt with a hammer a few times first and that makes it easier to get out. It's hard to get the hammer in there and really hit it though. Worked for me and I'm sure mine hadn't been touched since the sequoia was built in 2001, the fluid was terrible!

If that doesn't work, people have welded a bolt to it and used that to get it off.

 

I use a 2” Round 1 Foot Long short pipe cheater on a 3/8” Ratcheting Wrench combo’d with the 10MM Allen Socket. 3/8” Plus 10MM is the only thing that fits in the tight space as you’ll see. The Pipe Cheater is needed when doing this on the ground (no lift for me) and I use my leg to push the cheater to crack the plug.

You’ll see what I’m saying if you have no lift. There is only a small window of crank space before the pipe bottoms out on the ground. If you have a lift, then its a different ballgame. I could not imaging trying to crack the drain from above without possibly destroying shtuff or something getting in the way.

I do fill from above. Run a 4’ long PEX Line from above and turn it into the fill hole. Put a small funnel in the top end and fill with ease.

 

Well.... it was not a 10mm allen on my front diff. I tried hard to tap that 10mm in there but it wouldn't seat well. So I grabbed a small pick and flashlight to clean it out. Lo and behold it wasn't an allen, it was a T55. Once I slapped on a Torx it came out like butta. Who knew?
The oil in there was low and extremely gnar so I drained and refilled with Valvoline 75-90. Transfer case oil looked good but I drained and refilled anyway.
2021-04-16_03-39-01 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

2021-04-16_03-39-25 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

 

That ones been stripped. It probably started life as a 10mm allen.

 

No. The "stripped" look is from me trying to pound a 10mm allen into it. I beat the crap out of it trying to get the 10mm in there. The T55 slid all the way in and seated perfectly with no resistance. It's most definitely a T55. Maybe someone replaced it at some point, who knows?

 

Maybe someone will replace it again at some point....you'll thank your self later

 

If I replace it... it'll be attached to a solid axle.

 

So for future replacement. I’ve found a couple gallons of gasoline is the absolute best way to clean out the grease.. when find I dump it In the oil containers at work...

using gas made boot replacement SO much quicker

 

If you know anyone with an air hammer, that’s how I remove seized ones (you will need to replace the plug). Air chisel a Nick into the plug, then use the air hammer in the direction to loosen it and it’ll come out fine. Just can’t be too aggressive or you’ll damage the housing (in 6 years of doing it that way I’ve never seen one damaged)

 

The bearing assembly should be cleaned out with a "non-petroleum based product" as advised by other yota gurus, not sure why. Dawn detergent was highly recommended so I went that route. Gasoline or other solvents would have certainly been faster but I decided to err on the side of caution and use Dawn. I wasn't in a hurry. Worked well, just took a little longer.

 

Non petroleum is probably preferred because you do need to make sure all the gasoline’s out of the joint before reassembly.

 

Mine was seized. This was from "What have you done" first gen thread.

 

I went to stealership first and picked up a couple replacement plugs after realizing mine were stripped and torqued to 3 tons by previous mechanic. drilled out existing and replaced with clean new ones and crush washerrs. Cost <$10