n0rth's Platinum build

Yeah I jumped all over it. He doesn't advertise that he does it commercially, but he has done it plenty of times so he didn't balk when I asked him. His tech accidentally chipped the front axle tube when pulling one of the CVs out, but he promptly ordered one and replaced for free.

 

This is the one that I have had the longest, purchased it in September 1998. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/n0rths-1972-fj40-build-rebuild-thread.148312/







@STravis dad Chris built the bumpers and roll cage for it back in the day. Bottom pic is from yesterday while I was running errands.

 

Been wanting an oldie like this for years. Several in my area are up for sale but they want $20k+

My grandpa had one we used on the ranch. It was used and abused but it couldn't get stuck.

 

Getting all nostalgic... anyways Zuk finished the rear diff and started on the front clamshell yesterday. I'll post more pictures later of the progress.

 

Local shop to me was around $4100 with gears and install, no lockers in that price. Also wanted to keep it a week to do the break in.

No thank you.

 

I had a little detour after picking up my diffs from Zuk, it involved a quick trip to Oregon. Introducing "Penton" the Parson Russell terrier, my last Parson "Norton" was 16 1/2 years old and passed December 27th 2022.







Here are the finals of the rear diff, specs and elocker test.

















Big thanks to Ken AKA "Zuk"

 

Currently installing Solid Offroad motor mounts since I have extra room with the front clamshell out. I picked my set up from another member and no instructions came with them do they have recommended torque specs (can't find anything on their website)? I'm not too worried, just curious more than anything I've scrolled through several threads and haven't seen anything about it.

Edit** found this in another thread searching a different way-
36-38ft lbs on the engine block mount bolts
and 60-80ftlbs on the frame side

 

How did you support the engine during install?

 

Driver side is done, definitely glad I did this while the front diff was out.

 

I supported it by the oil pan with a block of wood and a 2x6 to spread the weight out.

 

Perfect. I plan on doing mine Christmas week since I’ll be off for 11 days.

 

Is there a noticeable difference with these mounts compare to oem?
Curious if they are worth it or not?

 

I’ve read that there is improvement in throttle response and a reduction in frame flex since the stock mounts are like jelly donuts. I was interested in stiffening up the front end after seeing the amount of flex offroad. I plan to have the truck ready by this weekend so I can give actual feedback some folks have said they notice more vibrations so we’ll see. Here is the info from Solid Offroad about them.

https://solid-offroad.com/tech-info

 

Nice, I'll check them out!
Just sold my Tacoma for a '21 Tundra. Let the build begin again!

 

The mounts look interesting, and glad to see Zuk still doing it, he did mine and it's still one of the best mods I've done to the truck.

 

Zuk is great to work with, I'll continue having him set up my diffs as long as he's willing. I'm interested to see how the motor mounts work out.

 

Pics of the front clamshell/diff process from Zuk.

 

Peak jealousy. What's the purpose of the fork that he welded on?

 

This is what Zuk sent me about the last photo.
“Test fitting the e-locker before the bulky ring gear is on and you can see the stop tabs at the bottom have a little bit of clearance”

Here is a link to an early elocker installation that he did, it talks about the tabs. http://www.gearinstalls.com/JP_Harrop2017Tundra.htm *incorrect link but still an excellent read, I'll look for the one that discusses the front elocker.

http://www.gearinstalls.com/

It’s meant to catch the fin on the inside of the case and keep it secure. I have a bunch more pictures I’ll post that helped it make sense to me.

 

Gotcha, thanks for the link! No wonder you went to all the effort to pull the diffs and drive them down to him, to say it seems like he knows what he's doing is a drastic understatement.

 

More photos of the front diff/clamshell process
X marks the spot


Special tool he built to work on the 9" clamshell














1st pattern






He didn't like the initial pattern so it all came apart, this kinda blew my mind the difference between good enough and right.





















New Toyota OEM seal





New pattern after changing the shim













Fits like a glove


He was happy with the second patterns so it all goes back together





elocker test....




Build notes for front clam


Everything was done via text in real time that he updated me on, I have all the notes but didn't feel like typing that much....

 

Finished the rear axle today, started with getting the housing prepped. I don't think the gear oil had ever been changed, the housing had black film inside it and Zuk noticed it on the rear diff as well.

Before


After


Chunk


I opted to use a factory gasket based on how heavy the 3rd member is, figured we didn't need FIPG getting everywhere while muscling it in the housing.



All cleaned up and ready to go in.



Swapped out floor jacks to this one, since it cradled it better (and the sticker says it all...lol)



I cleaned up and reattached the ADD tube to the front clamshell while hanging out until @STravis and his dad stopped by to give me a hand with the rear diff.



The FSM calls for 48 ft lbs for the 4 bolts that attach the ADD tube.



Extra hands to get it back in the housing made quick work of it.



Torque specs used
53 ft lbs for the carrier assembly
52 ft lbs for the prop shaft
44 ft lbs for the axle backing plate
36 ft lbs for the drain and fill plugs

One of the guys at work hooked me up with some Amsoil 75W-90, the rear diff calls for 3.75 quarts.



Plan for tomorrow is to get the front finished up, not sure if I'll finish the wiring tomorrow but I at least plan to have it on its wheels and driving again.

 

Did you also use RTV or FIPG with the rear gasket or just the gasket?

 

Only the gasket, I felt good with how the mating surfaces cleaned up had there been any major imperfections I would have used FIPG or Ultra Grey.

I noticed you're in West Chester, I have family in West Chester and Chadds Ford.

 

Nice. Let me know if you ever visit.
I enjoyed all the Zuk process pics posted so far.

 

I wish there Zuk does more than diffs, if this man offer service to build a full vehicle I would've probably send my truck to him, to state that his detail to attention is the one of the best I've seen would've been an understatement.

Did you get REM polished?

 

Zuk does the best work out there IMO, his Tacoma SAS is pretty amazing. I had the REM polish done from Revolution.

 

Been busy the last week and haven't had time until this morning to post. I was able to make good progress last Sunday until I was putting the passenger side CV joint back in went to smack it with the dead blow hammer and ended up deflecting off my thumb and mangling the dust cover on the CV joint.



This is how it should look...



Ordered a new one Monday, it came in Tuesday morning and I was able to pick it up Wednesday and finish everything up.



The truck drives really well, the motor mounts definitely stiffened up the front end and while there is a little bit more feedback/vibration it's barely noticeable and not a deal breaker by any means.

The 5.29 gears are a game changer. No more hunting gears climbing hills and IMO feels better than when I first purchased the truck in terms of shifts and power even with the 37's. I'm sure we'll get a chance to use the lockers at some point but sliders are next on the list prior to taking it out where I would actually need them @STravis

 

Back to work, getting more firewood this load is going to my girlfriend’s dad.

 

Outstanding job!! Dang fine work!!!


I forgot a Good On Ya!!