My Used oil analysis

I'm just thinking out loud here but wouldn't a dirty air filter just allow in less air. Unless the filter media is degrading then the micron size particles it allows through isn't going to change because it's dirty it's just going to have poor air flow.

I would inspect it first. I'm at 41,000 and still on my stock filter. Not because I'm cheap I actually have a new one ready to go in but the current one is still super clean. The Tundra being pretty high up doesn't really intake much dirt and crud as vehicles lower to the ground. Also obviously depends on If you're driving on dirt roads or sandy environment as well though.

 

It's a cheap enough item I'm just gonna change it. And maybe getting dirty the delta pressure across it is causing it to deform or something? I don't know for sure, but again it's like $30 for a new one shipped to me so I can try and see if that eliminates issue. Hoping the 5K OCI will also remedy that situation. Today is my first day off since i got the report and I'm gonna go look at air box and see if anything obvious sticks out.

 

Is it worth it to remove the tubing to check or can i get a good check while it's still on the truck?

 

I always put a fine film of MOLYKOTE 55 O-Ring Grease on the bottom of the air filter when I put a new one in. There is some Aussie Toyota offroading channel where they show dust leakage at the corners and edges of their Toyota airboxes. Not the same I know but I thought it was good advice. I also use the stuff on the oil filter O rings before putting them on, sometimes just fresh engine oil.

 

I've always wiped my o-rings with the used oil before installing.

 

I've had a couple tests done on mine (see attached). Running Amsoil Signature 0W20 with Amsoil High Performance Oil Filter. Been doing oil and filter changes around 9,000 miles. I also run Amsoil Upper Cylinder Lubricate in every tank plus Amsoil PI Performace Fuel Additive every 4,000 miles. I've been running the Toyota TRD High Performance Air Filter (same as K&N) since new. After this last report showing higher silicon, I remove and dropped the OEM filter back in just to see if there is a difference. I like the idea of adding a film of grease around the edge of the filter before installing. As for my numbers, I'm very content with them and will continue to do 9K - 10K oil changes.

 

I'd heard a saying a while back "Americans have the most expensive piss in the world."

This was because Americans over consume vitamins and supplements, and as a result just piss them out.

Is doing anything besides what Toyota's engineers state been proven to be more than just an expensive "piss"?

 

Hmmm i know just where to find a tube of this...
I think that will help my issue, thanks for the suggestion

 

I would venture to guess also that if the dealership is doing your oil changes it’s bulk oil, not Toyota brand oil. Bulk oil is Toyota spec, similar not but not the same. (I had one Toyota dealership try to put some Lubetec shit in my truck I said nope and never see you again!) Believe me lots of people have had engine noises fixed by using the Toyota brand oil. There are arguments all over about how it’s all the same, but I just go by what my engine sounds like, and it’s noticeably quieter with the Toyota brand stuff in it. Toyota Oil has a boat load of Moly in it. It must help something. Also yes every 5,000 miles.

 

Yeah going forward I'm doing 5K oil changes. Planning on staying with the dealer since I have prepaid oil changes. When they run out I will re-assess.

 

Just so you know, when the dealer has your vehicle for an oil change the person doing it is the least qualified most junior mechanic there. Not that I'm hating on that, obviously the more senior and qualified technicians should be tasked with other jobs. Point is, that is why you see stories about broken or over torqued oil filter housings when people have their vehicle serviced at a dealer. If you plan to do your own oil changes in the future and are capable, just do them now, its not worth the free oil changes. I bought my truck new and its never been to a dealer for service, just my driveway and I also could have had free oil changes. If you dont have the ability to do so then the dealer is definitely better than a jiffy lube though.

 

Yeah I think I'm going to start doing them myself.

Would this be a good oil filter housing wrench? https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...oil-filter-wrench?_pos=1&_fid=2acd4fb3e&_ss=c
If not what is a good tool that will work and make my life easier?

 

That is absolutely a good wrench. I'd also recommend their funnel and drain tool, as do many on this forum. FYI, that filter wrench also fits many of the Toyota spin-on filters. For me, it fits both our Sienna and several Camrys in our family.

 

Yes! The Motivx kit is awesome, looks like their wrench has changed since I purchased but I'm sure it works all the same. I have their whole kit that came with the funnel and filtered drain tube.

 

Yeah I think I'm going to go that way too. Unfortunately the kit with the Funnel is sold out everywhere I can see, may just get the wrench and the drain tube combo.

 

Yeah the funnel is super convenient since it screws into the tube so you can pour the oil in very quickly but it's definitely the least needed part of the kit The wrench and the drain tool really help make the oil changes easier though.

 

10k Miles is fine for synthetic. Had a '97 Supra turbo at 680whp for 16 years and we would do UOA and post them on Supra forums. Only put around 1000 miles a year on it, but was changing the Mobil 1 every year regardless of mileage due to the perception that moisture gets to the oil and breaks down the viscosity. Totally unnecessary as I discovered synthetic oils were not susceptible to this. People were easily going 10k miles on Mobil 1 with high horsepower cars and their UOA was fine.

I believe Toyota uses Mobil 1 for their synthetic oil changes?

 

Toyota does not use Mobil 1. Toyota oil is a special blend with higher levels of moly but it is blended by Mobil 1 for Toyota. Not the same oil but does meet Toyota spec albeit completely different blends.

 

Thanks for the clarification.

 

Toyota does not have a spec for engine oil for the Tundra. You can put almost anything in it, no special OEM approval like some German manufacturers.

 

Toyota does have a spec for their oil bled or else they wouldn’t have their own blend. They recommend toyota brand oil right in the owners manual. All oils are not equal even though Mobil 1 does meet the specifications of what toyota requires for their vehicles. The Toyota oil has additive packages not equaled by other oils hence the reason they recommend it. Sure you can put anything in it just like you can put any gas stations gas in it they are mostly all top tier certified but they are definitely not equal, some are noticeably better.

 

Toyota does not say that your oil needs to meet a certain OEM specification like some vehicles, for example I own a motorcycle that needs a JASO certification, also had a VW diesel that needed a specific VW approved certification that is listed on the bottle. Our engines do not require any specific OEM certification. Maybe the Toyota Brand oil has a different additive package but Toyota in no way says that you need to use Toyota brand engine oil. It just says ILSAC GF-5, which is basically every oil on the the shelf. Now when you look at what Toyota says to use for the transfer case, you will see that they solely approve the Toyota brand transfer case fluid. You are wasting money buy Toyota brand engine oil but use what ever makes you feel good. I stick with OEM fluids for ATF, coolant, transfer case and power steering but definitely not engine oil since.

 

You are correct, but I Never said Toyota requires it. I said toyota specs their oil one way and it’s not the same “OIL” as Mobil 1. You can use whatever brand you want. They just recommend toyota brand motor oil is all. I don’t think there is a disagreement here.