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My Front Blinkers Anger Me

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by Silv333, Jan 12, 2019.

  1. Mar 25, 2019 at 7:02 PM
    #211
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    Yep. Headlights on the drl is white. Headlights off. Amber. Wondering if there’s a easy way to make them white.
     
  2. Mar 25, 2019 at 7:50 PM
    #212
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Clearly you have a "switchback" (half amber/half white) LED in the DRL/Signal socket.

    IIRC, DRL should be on high level (amber?) when headlights are off, low level (white?) when headlights are on. I believe signals are always high level (amber?). I don't think rotating the LED 180 degrees in the socket will help, but you could try that. The high and low power contacts should still be in the same positions. What you're asking for is the LED to be white on both high level and low level...you can accomplish that with a white LED, but then your signals will also be white and illegal.
     
  3. Mar 25, 2019 at 7:56 PM
    #213
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Premium Lone Star Member

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    TSS 20's with Dynapro ATs, N Fab 3 Hoop Nerf Bars, TRD Wheel Locks, Pioneer AVIC-8100NEX, Masters Tailgate Replacement Latch with Camera, 1" Maxtrac Shackles, LED Interiors/Brake/Reverse/Cargo/Fog Bulbs, Fumoto Drain Valve, Toyota Aluminium Oil Filter Housing, TRD Shift Knob, Courtesy Door Projector LEDs with Toyota Emblem, Console Tray and Lower Divider.
    Ordered these signal LEDs with built in resistor pig tail, very impressive for $26.00 They actually hurt my eyes looking into them in the headlight fixture. They are a bit more yellow than amber but 3-4 times brighter in our 2007. I still need to figure out how to dress out the pig tail.
    The block with resistor got warm after about 30 seconds but not hot. Did not do a lengthy test.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J5TJV5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2019
  4. Mar 25, 2019 at 7:58 PM
    #214
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    That is a HUGE improvement!!! Thanks for the feedback. :thumbsup:

    I tried the JDM Astar 3157 in my tail and brake light today, and the Nakobo 921 in the signal. Both were maybe twice as bright as the stock incandescents. After a few minutes operation, the JDM Astar was still stone cold and the Nakobo was maybe 135-140 degrees. I'll play with it again tomorrow.
     
  5. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:01 PM
    #215
    CCLJ03

    CCLJ03 New-ish Member

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    Yeah that heat makes me nervous! Did you have a backup option for your blinkers?
     
  6. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:06 PM
    #216
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    No, I'll just have to keep looking if heat becomes a problem. The Nakobo 921 was the best I had found thus far. Remember that on the rears, signals are the only job the 921s have, and that will normally be short duration. Extended time on the emergency flashers, however, will be another issue.

    Edit: Great news on the JDM Astars running so cool though.
     
  7. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:15 PM
    #217
    CCLJ03

    CCLJ03 New-ish Member

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    Yeah that’s awesome. Did you need resistors with the Nakebo’s? If not I think I’ll go for it seeing as blinker use is typically minimal.
     
  8. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:18 PM
    #218
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    No, but I haven't done the fronts yet. Waiting on some bits. With only one LED, you usually avoid the hyperflash problem. I'll need them after the installing the front LEDs, and I've scoped out the location today.
     
  9. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:24 PM
    #219
    CCLJ03

    CCLJ03 New-ish Member

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    I just want to avoid resistors if I can. I’m thinking about paying the GoRecon 921’s with built in resistors - https://gorecon.com/product/part-264201rd-194168-360-degree-red-led-bulbs/
     
  10. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:26 PM
    #220
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Having a proprietary pig tail was a big reason I passed on the VLED v6s...that and the astronomical price.

    How are you going to adapt those things to your harness now?...cut off your connectors and hardwire them? I guess you could figure out how to wire them into your old sockets some way, and leave your harness undamaged. That way, if they burn out, you could toss'em, and get new sockets.
     
  11. Mar 25, 2019 at 8:35 PM
    #221
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Premium Lone Star Member

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    I do not plan to modify anything. They pig tail has bulb equivalent male end, pig tail connects to original bulb socket. Bulb end fits right in headlight. Thinking heat shrink (lightly) original plug to pig tail and 2 way sticky back tape block to back of headlight assembly.
    This is for gen2, but wouldn't think much different.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
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  12. Mar 26, 2019 at 5:49 AM
    #222
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    4B5A5EE2-C37E-421D-A2E3-E39199612A68.jpg As soon as I put it into drive they switch to amber then turn on headlights they go back to this
     
  13. Mar 26, 2019 at 6:16 AM
    #223
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Unfamiliar with operation of Spyder headlights. Projectors aren't on, so they use DRL as a low beam? :confused:
     
  14. Mar 26, 2019 at 7:02 AM
    #224
    Berdine

    Berdine Ironhide

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    Nothing to do with the spyder headlights. It's the Tundra and switchbacks. I think I read somewhere you have to de-pin or turn off the drl, then they'll work only when you turn your headlights on like normal, white blink amber.
    Wonder if you could switch pins for the turn signal, but then they'd turn amber with lights on and blink white.
     
  15. Mar 26, 2019 at 7:12 AM
    #225
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Deleting the corner (amber) DRL is one of his options. With that option, he would have no corner DRL, only the LED strips. He seems to want keep his corner DRL, and they be on and "white" both high level and low level, and that isn't possible if his turn signals are legal (amber).

    His other option is to simply lose the "switchback" and have amber corner DRL and signals, plus the LED strip DRL.
     
  16. Mar 26, 2019 at 7:49 AM
    #226
    Scotty Dive

    Scotty Dive New Member

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    Just ordered the $18 Astar from Amazon for my 18 SR5 Off Road DC. Looks like hyperflash wont be an issue. Jeesh these forums just keep on costing me money! Not much this time...but there is always something lurking around the corner.
     
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  17. Mar 26, 2019 at 8:10 AM
    #227
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    :mad: That sounds above my pay grade. Just thought since they have the ability to be white it might be easy. They’re bright when on. Thought would look nice as well.
     
  18. Mar 26, 2019 at 8:12 AM
    #228
    Berdine

    Berdine Ironhide

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    Yeah it's a pain with tundras, I tried few years ago. Never went back to the headache
     
  19. Mar 26, 2019 at 8:19 AM
    #229
    Berdine

    Berdine Ironhide

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  20. Mar 26, 2019 at 8:26 AM
    #230
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Tell me about. Somebody talking about color-matched bumper caps from Sparks this morning. Only $550 for all four corners...and that's for clip-over plastic covers! Whewww.
     
  21. Mar 26, 2019 at 9:18 AM
    #231
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    Hm I wonder if those will have same problem. When I’m in park “parking lights” it’s white. As soon as I hit drive it goes amber. Oh well. I already bought these bulbs not a big deal. Thanks for the video appreciate it
     
  22. Mar 26, 2019 at 10:24 AM
    #232
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Yes, unfortunately that WILL be the case. Either 3157 or 4157 bulbs are two element bulbs which handle all the Park/DRL/Signal functions in 2014-2017. Park and DRL (headlights on) functions are on the bulb low power element and wiring circuit. Turn signal and DRL (headlights off) functions are on the bulb high power element and wiring circuit.

    In an LED replacement bulb, the light is made by light emitting "chips". To make a "switchback" LED, half the chips (white) are on the low power circuit (Park/DRL headlights on), and half the chips (amber) are on the high power circuit (Signal/DRL headlights off). You desire to have the "white chips" to be "on" for both the low power circuit AND for the high power circuit. To do that with the wiring harness in your Tundra, you would need a "smart LED" that could sense when the turn signals were about to be used and switch the chip connections inside the LED appropriately...they don't exist.

    When you shift into drive, the control box in the truck turns off the Park lights on the low power circuit, and turns on the DRL (headlights off) on the high power circuit. That's why they go from white to amber. When you turn on your headlights, the control box switches back to the low power circuit for the DRL (now they're white). If you signal, the control box switches to the high power circuit (amber).

    Another observation is that as @Berdine posted earlier, those particular LEDs flash amber-white, amber-white. The problem there is the amber signal is getting diluted by a field of bright white. That's old technology. Even manufacturers that were touting that as an advantage now realize that the signal is more visible as amber-off-amber-off, etc., then have the DRL come back steady white. The video did not demonstrate the behavior of the DRLs with the headlights being turned on/off...only the Park and Signal functions.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
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  23. Mar 26, 2019 at 10:55 AM
    #233
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    ........... :bowdown:that was the most impressive explanation I have ever read. You sir are a scholar and a gentleman.
     
  24. Mar 26, 2019 at 11:15 AM
    #234
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    :rofl:After my two previous tries using "hints" and "basic outlines", I figured I needed to expand the "narrative" for you. You were beginning to be angry at the messenger. :rofl::rofl:

    No worries...When I first started thinking about this conversion, I wanted to have the DRL exactly like you want them. As I got into it, it began to make sense from what I had read here. When working with stuff that makes lots of sparks and heat, blows fuses and starts fires, I thought I had to figure this out completely before experimenting. :D
     
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  25. Mar 26, 2019 at 11:42 AM
    #235
    Gary86

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    Did you order these? Had these on my Taco and no issues. Thanks

    https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Lu...automotive&vehicleId=9&vehicleType=automotive
     
  26. Mar 26, 2019 at 1:10 PM
    #236
    Scotty Dive

    Scotty Dive New Member

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    those are the ones!
     
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  27. Mar 27, 2019 at 1:07 AM
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    Berdine

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    I asked the question on the YouTube video if they're amber when truck is running and in drive, they said they're white
     
  28. Mar 28, 2019 at 8:13 PM
    #238
    mart1nezdaniel

    mart1nezdaniel AZ

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    These jdm astar bulbs dont seem to fit my light sockets on my '17. Any thoughts?
     
  29. Mar 28, 2019 at 8:26 PM
    #239
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Which bulb are you trying to replace with the JDM Astar? Front DRL/Signal, Rear Signal, Rear Stop/Brake?

    Most of the posts in this thread are related to weak front turn signals in 2018+ headlight housings, so you may have ordered the wrong LED if you're using in your stock 2017 headlight housings. Stock 2017 housings use 4157NAK for front DSL/Signal, not the 7444NA used in the 2018 housings.
     
  30. Mar 29, 2019 at 4:06 AM
    #240
    plumber802

    plumber802 New Member

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