Mushy brake pedal but brakes work fine...

Yes, it has a load sensing prop valve (LSPV) just above the rear axle, that's what all that rigmarole is attached to/above the rear axle. The position and adjustment of that unit is significant to your braking experience, there are brackets to adjust the LSPV assembly upward equally so you don't need to go thru the process of adjusting it correctly.

 

Right, but has he bled that valve up there?

 

Late to the party and haven't read all, but chiming in, just had this exact symptom. Replaced my master cylinder and now it's good to go!

 

Bingo! Well called sir, as that is what I have! I guess the moral of the story is take lots of photos - with smart phones we have no excuse... But I should have remembered you can't bleed air from a low point - fluid bleeds very well though!

Too bad I didn't notice that before I removed the driver's rear wheel cylinder! That wheel was a continuous air stream when bled however, even though I removed the wheel and drum (again) and ensured the pistons were well into their bores and projecting equally. Saw a vid on YT discussing *marginal* leaks on rear cylinders as a source of these persistent problems, so have two new Raybestos cylinders to go on today.

As we know mechanical and hydraulic systems can often keep working for years in a marginal or deteriorating condition, but once we disturb some part of the system it all seems to "fall apart" like a house of cards!

IIRC one or both pistons on that cylinder got pushed well out when I was removing the old shoes. Not far enough to pop the covers off, but could be that was just enough disturbance to an old seal that it no longer worked? OEM cylinders so probably original.

Brake line nut was rusted solid onto the line and would not free off with heat and penetrant, so had to cut the line flush with the top of the nut to remove. Am hoping I can cheat that lost length out of the existing lines by straightening them a bit, enough to put new nuts on and re-flare the ends. Can't buy poly-covered line here except from the dealer, even though the Lordco receipt says the plain 40" lines I bought are poly-covered. LOL New nuts will come off the shortest pre-made line with nuts I can buy and chop in two.

I notice the OEM nuts have a parallel-sided and unthreaded shoulder about 1/8" long at their inboard ends, but the Lordco ones are threaded for their full length. Threads mesh properly and they seem to thread into the Raybestos cylinders OK. Anyone have thoughts on that?

Incidentally, I measured the two back brake lines along the axle at 36" and 38" if that helps anyone sometime.

Yes, repeatedly.

Oh yes, must have bled a good cup or so through that LSPV bleeder all told. No point bleeding wheels without doing that first.

 

I'm glad you got it straightened out. Makes you feel like a real dipshit after you figure it out.

Only worse thing I had was a Jeep Cherokee that in the 99 model year they changed hub assemblies. Visually everything looks similar, but the previous owner had replaced one hub/rotor assembly with the updated version and after the wheel is bolted on you've got a nearly locked up brake because there's just enough of a difference to jam the rotors.

 

Nah, don't feel that bad - anyone can make mistakes!

Job's not over though, so we'll hold off counting chickens yet.

Was able to squeeze the missing length out of the driver's side OEM brake line and was able to buy a couple of new line nuts with the plain shoulder They're 11mm, not the OEM 10mm hex/wrench for some unknown reason.