Multiple misfires after rebuild ** FIXED **

Legendary tenacity.

 

I do like the way my shortys sound when I'm giving it the beans, though...

 

True that.

 

@Brynden29
Updates?
Here's hoping you are on a path to enlightenment...

 

Happy thanksgiving guys! Sorry for the delays. What haven’t had much time with the holidays to work on it. I am having the same issue, but I still drive it. I think I want to check the timing of the cams. I have not checked that yet. I think I have the instructions in the manual. I just have to find it.

 

Just in case, here ... https://www.tundras.com/threads/cleaning-the-air-ducts-06-tundra.106641/#post-2751358

 

@Brynden29 Glad to hear you're still fighting the good fight. It'll get figured out...

 

So from what I read it looks like I can just remove the valve cover and rotate the engine over until the marks on the back of the cams touch. If they meet then the timing should be good. If not, then maybe I have something. It does not appear to matter where the timing marks are on the crank and cams for the timing belt. I assumed that the engine needed to be at top dead center and the camshaft marks should line up, but it doesn’t appear to be the case. Unless I am missing something.

 

Well, it looks like I am 2 teeth off on the cams. I marked the dots with yellow. I went around 2 times just to double check but it is off.

 

At least it looks like you've found the problem.

 

Well, how are you supposed to fix that? Take the cams apart?

 

Remove and re time. Not a huge deal. Just time consuming

 

I wonder how that happened? Did you change the cam seals?

 

In Post 24 he mentions that he swapped the cam seals, along with every other seal on the engine. It's quite possible that in focusing on the front of the engine and cam gears, alignment marks on the back side were missed.

 

Wow. Excellent work finding the issue! Good work!

 

I pulled the heads and replaced the valve stem seals. I assume that I miss aligned the cams when I put them back in. Total bone head move.

 

Alright...problem solved! Maybe check the other side too?

 

Hopefully problem solved. Man, imagine what you'd have paid if you'd let a shop find the issue...

 

For sure.

I just can’t find if the marks are supposed to line up when the car is at top dead center.

 

Not my area of expertise, haven't had to dick with top-end stuff yet. Does this thread help at all? https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-tundra-sequoia-camshaft-seals.109297/

If not, tag to @EvilMilkshake who was a great help there and @Bilgepump who already went through similar process.

 

The dual dots on one side, single dots on the other should mesh together. That’s all that’s needed there. Then set timing with the belt on the timing belt

 

@Brynden29 Maybe this will help??

I found it in the Alldata info for our truck.





Release the oil from the front bearing caps.
Using SST, rotate the camshaft timing tube from left to right 2 to 3 times within its WT-i range (25°) and use a waste cloth to collect the oil from the camshaft timing oil control valve installation hole.
SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-00400)

NOTICE: Approximately 20 cc (1.2 cu inch) of oil will be ejected. Take care not to spill it.


exhaust camshaft with a wrench.
(2)Secure the sub-gear to the main gear with a service bolt.




Recommended service bolt

HINT: When removing the camshaft, make sure that the torsional spring force of the sub-gear has been eliminated by the above operation.


oil control valve filter and 2 camshafts.


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d. Remove the RH camshafts.
(1)Bring the service bolt hole of the sub-gear upward by turning the hexagon head portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench.
(2)Secure the sub-gear to the main gear with a service bolt.




Recommended service bolt

HINT: When removing the camshafts, make sure that the torsional spring force of the sub-gear has been eliminated by the above operation.


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(3)Set the timing mark (1-dot mark) of the camshaft main gear at approximately 10° angle by turning the hexagon head portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench.


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(4)Uniformly loosen the 22 bearing cap bolts in several steps, in the sequence shown.
(5)Remove the 22 bearing cap bolts, 4 seal washers, oil feed pipe, 9 bearing caps, camshaft housing plug, strainer and 2 camshafts.

HINT: Arrange the bearing caps for RH and LH sides.


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25. DISASSEMBLE EXHAUST CAMSHAFTS
a. Mount the hexagon head portion of the camshaft in a vise.

NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the camshaft.


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b. Using SST, turn the sub-gear clockwise, and remove the service bolt.
SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-00500)

 

I’ve been driving my truck with this issue, do you think it is safe to drive with the cam gear timing off? It drives terrible and has no power but can I hurt the motor?

 

Did you put the service bolt in when you removed the cams? If not, the scissor gear may have rotated.

Some more detail - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gq8q0wV1Avk

 

Misfires will cause premature wear to the pistons and cats. Enough pre detonation can lead to shattering the piston or destroying rod/main bearings

 

But how much actual driving has it done? I would assume nothing too detrimental has been done.... yet..

 

Unfortunately no, I did not put the service bolt in. But I will this time.

 

Well, here's hoping this can get squared away with no residual damage..

 

Since I didn't put the bolt in the first time, is there anything I need to do to the cam once I get it out? Or can I just put a service bolt in, pull them out, line them up correctly, and then put it all back together?

 

If it's rotated, you probably won't be able to get the service bolt into both sprockets. You'll need to take out the cam, rotate/disassemble it, then put the service bolt in. I've never not put the bolt in a scissor gear, so I'm not sure. Doesn't look like the cam is too complex from that video, so here's hoping.