Moaning + pedal pulsating while turning

I’ve noticed that while breaking and turning (especially while down hill/coming to quick stop) my pedal makes a weird moaning noise, and pulsates. The only idea that I’ve found viable is that ABS sensor is off? Any other ideas? What should I check for. New pads and new rotors btw. Thank you!

video of the issue: https://youtube.com/shorts/Ea0cybCLv1E

 

Howdy. First, when was the last time you properly bled your brake lines? Second, what does your master cylinder look like? (Do you have "Auto LSD")

 

Whatever you do, don't buy aftermarket rotors. Trust on this. Never buy aftermarket drums or rotors on these trucks. "We've seen some shit..."

Advics is the brand who manufactured the pads for Toyota. You can buy their whole kit with shims pre-glued, all replacement springs, etc.

I'm curious in what Snek just asked ^^

Also curious if you see any lights on in the dash in the process.

Any weird wear on the rotors or pads, either uneven wear, or pits/lines??

Both caliper mounting bolts are tight on the back side of the caliper, not loose? (If they were, you'd likely see uneven wear).

But also, because it happens, you wisely mention ABS. When was the last time you had the ABS sensors out of their holes, checked them for debris on the magnetic tip, and inspected to insure the O-ring seal was still intact and not misaligned/mangled/missing? I ask because we do

 

An easy way to test if it's ABS related is to just pull the two big ABS relays from the fuse box. This disables the ABS but leaves normal braking intact. (my preferred way to drive)

Perceptions vary. But when my ABS (used) to kick in, it felt like a strong vibration in the pedal and a chattering sound. I would by no means called it moaning and pulsing, that sounds like something else.

Warped front brake rotors are a common problem on our trucks, although less so on the later models like yours that got larger brakes.

 

You could have big brakes too The Black Mamba's WL Big brake Upgrade

 

If I ever warp my discs again, I will go that route. So far I've been going several years on aftermarket rotors and pads and the fronts are fine (the aftermarket rear drums did come slightly warped brand new however)

I think most of the time the fronts get warped, because the rears are not adjusted and not doing anything.

 

The WE calipers and pads are smaller, providing less surface area for the heat to dissipate creating a smaller hotter surface when braking. Essentially, folks were cooking their rotors just sitting in traffic.

 

I’m going to check if I have auto LSD. It’s a fairly new truck to me so I’m not sure. I did notice when I changes the pads that they were uneven. I’ll check the caliper bolts. Do you know their torque speck if they have one?
I’ve never checked the sensor but that was my plan. Are there videos on how to do this? I read some of the threads but don’t really understand what I’m supposed to do lol

 

Have you read the MEGATHREAD yet? You can download the service manuals from there.

Info on auto LSD here https://www.tundras.com/threads/is-an-auto-lsd-button-a-common-option.102171/#post-2621033

 

Before you wrench anything, I really would pull those ABS relays. If that makes it go away, you know it's ABS. If that does nothing, you know it's a mechanical brake problem and you can do all that without even having to bend down and get dirty.

 

For some reason, I have it in my head that doesn't work on the newer trucks ('05+? Not sure), I swore there wasn't a relay to pull, but maybe I'm nuts.

 

Also note, a sticking piston in your caliper will also cause uneven wear, and pulsating like you're talking about ....

 

Ok I feel overwhelmed with the things I should check ‍ where would you say I should start?

 

Start by answering the questions. Then we can give you direction.

 

Never bled the brakes. I will attach a photo of my master cylinder. No lights when it happening, but I do have a TPSM light (assuming unrelated but thought id mention anyway). No weird wear on the rotors so far but they’re brand new. The previous rotors were warped and the pads were unevenly worn (one pad was more worn than the other). I will check caliper bolts, but I’m assuming they’re tight because I just did the breaks. Never took out the ABS sensors and I’m not sure how to do that or how to clean them. I will try pulling my ABS relays but I think I have to take the relay box out and remove screws before I can remove them. It’s only one relay correct? In the engine bay?

 

Did it exist before replacing the rotors? If not, the new rotors are almost certainly your problem.

I ask because we've had so many fucking reports of people installing new rotors and they're warped straight outta the box. It happens, regularly, to the point that I (frankly) wonder how in the holy hell aftermarket parts companies manage to stay in business. That type of shit NEVER happens with OEM Toyota parts (either in a Toyota box, or buying Advics brand from the store). But aftermarket drums and rotors are NOTORIOUS for being straight-up warped out of the box. They're made as cheaply as possible with little-to-no quality control, in mainland China or India most of the time, using the cheapest shitty metal they can melt down. This is true of most aftermarket parts these days, which is why they carry a "lifetime warranty": They know you'll be back, and you'd rather save 20-40% up front, and feel good when they're screwing you on replacement time, repeatedly.

 

Unevenly worn pads could be a sign of caliper issues. Sticking pistons, pins or improperly installed caliper bolts. Removing the ABS sensors is simple. Unscrew the 10mm bolt, pull the sensor out, clean it and whatever is inside the hole / on the tone ring, then reinstall.

 

If you’ve never bled brakes, be cautious about not overpumping the pedal and blowing out the seals in your MC. Recommend pressure bleeding.

 

Unless your fuse box is different than mine, there are two, right in the engine bay fuse box. You don't have to unscrew anything, you just pull them like a giant fuse.

 

I didn’t notice this problem before I did the pads and rotors. I used Duralasy stuff because I didn’t know better

 

Still got your old rotors? Swap em in. If the problem is gone, it's the rotors.

 

Nope I chucked ‘em. They were jacked up which is why I changed the brakes so fast. Lost of wobble upon engagement.
I think I’ll try the sensor cleaning first, and if I determine I need better rotors, I’ll try to return the DuraCrap ones and get OEM.

 

I can’t get mine to budge. Can you send a photo of yours so we can compare? I’m reading that the ones on the 05 models can be different …

 

Actually, if you pull the existing ones, carry them into the store, and tell them they're warped and vibrating like hell straight outta the box, you may be able to get them to replace. You may get lucky with the 2nd pair.

If not, and they'll let you purchase another brand, you can see if they have Advics brand rotors. Advics is the OE for Toyota. Here's your part number:

Note that some chain stores are equipped with the tools to measure drums and rotors to ensure they're in-spec. Hell, back in the day, auto parts stores would actually turn the damn things for you.

​

 

This is very helpful, thank you. It’s insane that the rotors I bought are more expensive than OEM. Mega dumb dumb move on my part. I’ll probably just try to return these crap ones and by OEM even if it’s not related to the problem.

 

I’m going to add a video to the OG post. It’s what I’ve been experiencing so hopefully other people will find this helpful if/when I figure it out

 

here’s a photo of my master cylinder. Not sure what exactly I’m looking for. I have an LSD oil only sucker on my diff, but on Toyotas website my truck isn’t listed as having an LSD

 

Man, knowing how many issues these trucks have with corrosion getting inside the battery cables, weaking all kinds of electrical havoc, melting wires, popping fuses, I'm really disappointed at the amount of corrosion I'm seeing all over your positive terminal, and the lack of washer and dielectric grease on the terminal post...

Do better, brother! https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-psa-clean-your-battery-terminals-you-lazy-sods.131635/

PS - if you have VSC, there will be an "AUTO LSD" button in the dash to the left of the 4HI/4LO buttons. But looking at your booster/MC combo, it would appear to me you don't have it.

 

Good. Now we know it's not one of the freaks. I'm with shifty on this now. Check for warped rotors.

 

I learn new things to take care of every day. Thanks for that thread, I will tend to my cables.