Metal oil filter cap/assembly

Hopefully you never cross thread putting it on.

 

Thats a very nice cap, looked at getting one myself, I'm assuming you didn't need to break apart the tube from the original housing and put it in the Jewett one though.

 

Anyone that is bending tabs to swap tubes is doing it the hard way. Push tube down just a hair and slip it to the side. It will release right out of the tabs…. I take mine apart at each oil change to clean and give it a quick inspection.
The coil spring just holds the little drain block disc, like mentioned above. It has nothing to do with the oil bypass that some are so concerned about…


But, to answer the OP’s question about what vehicle the metal canister is for, I believe it was a Sienna. Toyota will tell you it doesn’t fit, so have them grab one and also a tundra one. Hold them side by side and you can see they’re dimensionally the same except for the tube. Swap tubes, and you’re 100% good to go.

 

After looking at my old tube, I believe you and Chad are totally correct about the spring and its function. If you notice where the spring sits under the tube, its on a shoulder that can't move up, and the spring can only push down on that metal block plate.

 

Damn you, and your common sense!!! Lol. You’re gonna blow that truck up by Tuesday if you replace the canister that holds a filter with no other functionality!!!


Oddly, we were all stewpid fools if we kept our plastic canisters just a coupla years ago. Even more odd; I have heard of exactly zero catastrophic failures…

YMMV, as always.

 

So what’s the verdict, do I use the new spring that came with short tube or so I need to reuse the old spring from the long tube?

 

I reuse everything from old cap since it’s spec for that motor

 

No harm in reusing the old. More than likely there is no real difference. I wish I had a spring scale to put and end to the debate.

I think we have concluded the bypass is in the tube.

 

X2

 

Just asking cause my 8 year old distracted me while switching over during my last oil change. I’m not sure what spring I put back in the metal housing.

 

You don’t bend the tabs if you remove it correctly. A little pressure with a bifid trim tool is all that’s needed. Also the filter housing has no bypass valve - that’s under that hex plug next to the filter. The spring in the canister only functions to hold the drain at the bottom of the canister closed

 

Exactly what I did and never had a problem. I did not want to get into this debate at all but state your reasoning and your belief and leave it at that

 

Agree, but the metal housing is probably fine as long as you do everything right in making the switch.

That said as a 2020 owner and long time lurker here, I've seen more threads with problems induced by incorrectly applied metal housings than broken OE plastic parts. Typically it is:

1- Aftermarket metal housing leaks or insert tube collapses.

2- OE (not tundra) metal housing swapped in with good intentions; center tube/bypass assembly not replaced

 

F**K I PUT THE METAL HOUSING ON WITH NO SPRING.

am I screwed? I literally threw away every piece included with the old plastic. I used the tube from the new metal etc. everything. It’s been like 2 weeks. Buying a new plastic one now ugh

 

Yeah the second one is me. What do I do now ugh, just buy a new plastic one?

 

Odds are very high that you haven't hurt anything. I'd either buy a new plastic housing assy and use that, or buy a new plastic assy and swap the guts into yours.

I'm in the "plastic" camp with 12 oil changes on OE plastic now with not even a tool mark, but would probably consider the metal if my OE was damaged.

 

I had to use a breaker bar the get my plastic off and didn’t do my research at all, just thought I could throw on a metal housing next time. Thank god I clicked this thread for whatever reason. Should I keep the truck parked until I get a new housing?

 

Never experienced this, but odds are good you're fine. I'd just replace at earliest opportunity.

Probably a lot of people out there who have replaced their housings based on something they read on the internet, blissfully ignorant of the part differences, and have been OK.

 

What's with all the sudden hate on alum housings?

If you don't like them, don't buy one. Don't try and make it into a f

That sucks. Buy a new plastic one and steal the parts. I strongly doubt you hurt anything.

 

No hate, just observations.

Toyota trucks, as equipped seem to be pretty well set up for long service life unless you need/want to alter the performance parameters in some way.... do something it does not already do. Most "upgrades" or changes end up being more often than not just a lateral step, often a step backward.

 

Agreed. Especially the little plastic snivvys that the silly little screws used to go into that holds the front bumper cover to the OEM skid plate. Them are money…

Also, I like the wheel studs that are provide about the least amount of thread engagement in the history of wheel studs.

But, the best??? The Auto LSD that they give us. Now I’m no rocket surgeon, but I’ve seen an open diff carrier before. Shore does look a whole lot identical to our piece of engineering genius back there!



As usual, I’m joking and simply poking fun. I do love my Tundra and feel that Toyota did better than average with the majority of things. Some, not so much.


At least they didn’t try to get greedy and jump on the Apple Car Play or push button start bandwagons about a decade earlier like them other idiots…

 

You are exactly correct. The flat spring in the first photo is the bypass valve. When oil pressure is high, that plate you are pressing on with pliers rises and allows oil to flow through up through the center and bypass the filter media.

The coil spring in the last picture is there for the filter housing drain. The spring keeps the oil from spilling out when you remove the small drain plug on the housing (the one with the 3/8 square drive on it).

Assuming the person doing the swap is a competent and capable individual, you should in no way be changing, damaging, or touching the bypass components when you swap the tube over. Since the tabs aren't under much load if any in normal usage. Gently bending them back and forth for the swap is highly unlikely to cause an issue. They had to bend them during the assembly process in the first place.

 

Agree with everything you said, right up till the part about bending tabs being necessary to remove the tube. Nope. Not necessary. It pops right out once you figure out how to wiggle it correctly.

 

I've done two of these swaps now on our Sequoia and Tundra, and there's no way that I can see to remove the short tube without bending the tabs. The next time you do an oil change, shoot a quick video of yours and let's see it done...I'm genuinely curious how your tabs can go through the metal without being bent.

 

I think it comes down to how far the tabs have been bent. I think they lock the tube in at 90°

 

Thanks, now I know where the bypass is..

 

Good conversation. I mean, we could be talking about motor and transmission failures instead, good thing we're on a yota forum. A problem that's not a problem either way you go.

 

I’m due for an oil change in the next coupla weeks. I’ll do my best to remember to document this for you!

 

Is there people who have had the plastic one fail? I am going to do my 13th oil change next week. I don't see any damage to my stock one. I also owned a prius and did 25 oil changes on its OEM plastic oil filter housing with no problems.

 

The plastic ones are pretty tough. I've had asshats tighten the crap out of them and have to use a impact gun fo remove them and they didn't break. Out of the thousands of oil changes I've done I only remember one breaking. For some reason DIYs think tighter is better and it won't leak. The O ring is what is seating so it's just srew it on and snug.