LSD or not?

Happy new owner of a 2005 SR5 access cab. Toyota owners online info doesn't say anything about an LSD in the rear differential. However, there is clearly an LSD sticker on the casing. Who should I believe?

 

I believe your diff housing needs to be replaced

 

I wouldn't worry about LSD for now, and yes it was available in trucks.

It looks like you have some rust to address. Hopefully the frame does not look like that.

 

Crusty! I would think the option would be listed in the VIN somehow.

 

If Toyota Owner's Online doesn't list an LSD sometimes the Toyota Vin Decoder will.

 

I’d be looking for a whole new reared with an LSD already in it?? looks pretty rusty crusty!

 

Please be a troll post.

 

That LQQKS like an LSD while 'ON' LSD.

 

I AM A BANANA.

I'd believe the rear-end, but also run through a VIN decoder. Toyota Owners site says my truck came with cloth 60/40 or something crazy like that, but I have leather captains chairs, so ... meh.

 

Your VIN on my Toyota account will tell you
Also, drain it and peek inside and you will also know
As if that sticker is still there.

 

15 or 25? Aw hell, I'm in either way.

 

Shhh! He’s just driving it until the wheels fall off, literally from all the rust holding it together.

 

Lol, don't any of you live in New England? That's just surface rust! I have no idea how that sticker is still holding on.

Also, the frame was replaced.

 

I suppose there is no harm in putting in LSD specific gear oil (90w?) vs. the 75w90 that a non LSD diff would use?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/vibration-when-turning-left-from-a-stop.86796/page-2#post-2908126

Specifically the 'severe gear' stuff.

Comes very recommended:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diff-and-t-case-fluid-brand-preference.97433/#post-2477296

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diff-and-t-case-fluid-brand-preference.97433/reply?quote=2477233

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diff-and-t-case-fluid-brand-preference.97433/#post-2477236

 

I live here and that’s a little more than surface rust. lol. A small hammer will let you know how bad it really is there. Less rusty diffs than yours had fluid leaking problems.

It’s good that the frame was replaced. How’s the bed? Got any rust trying to break through the paint?

 

No puddles of fluid under the diff yet...

Bed and body seem to be great. There is a bubble under the paint on the back cab corner- driver's side. Otherwise, it's as rust free as you could hope for in the Northeast.

Except for what might be happening under the bedliner... I'm in no hurry to pull that up. Is it worth it to keep the plastic bedliners in? Or do they simply trap the water and contribute to rust?

It looks like Shifty has it right on the fluid- I just checked Amsoil and they recommend the same fluid for both LSD and no LSD. Thanks! I'm sorting everything out for the typical first service of a new (used) vehicle.

 

Rules of the forum are no politics and religion.

(It's a heated topic with polarized answers - I'm personally always leaving mine in. But you should pull and clean under the liner once every other year or so.)

 

You may be in for a big surprise when you lift that bedliner. These trucks have a flaw in the supports underneath that trap water and salt and rust through from under the bed. This is mine as an example.

 

My rear end looked like that when I got it, although not quite as bad. I was worried that trying to remove the fill plug would shred the pumpkin, but no problem. I knocked all the loose rust off with a wire brush, then used rust converter, followed by Eastman Rust Encapsulator (others use POR-15...another religious debate I'm afraid).

 

Pretty sure mine will look something like that.

Have you done anything to fix it?

SPP

 

Jack up the back wheels, in neutral, if your brakes arent dragging, do both wheels rotate the same direction?

 

Looking more closely, is it just me or does the bottom left portion of the diff look like it has oily residue from a leak? That sucker may be pretty thin steel at this point. I’d make sure it’s not low on gear oil.

 

Yup, it's already saturated. Not much OP can do on that one other than find a new housing and/or replacement rear axle assembly from a matching-cab/similar year truck.

 

I live in Maine. I still don’t have any surface rust on my frame. Just a smidge surface on some of the diff.

 

Nothing yet. The plan is to learn how to weld first. For now, the plastic liner just goes over it and I spray fluid film underneath every winter.

 

I prefer molly or DMT, but to each their own.

 

My diff housing looks a lot like yours. I am afraid if I try removing the plug its going to twist the metal out around it. I have no idea if the fluid has ever been changed or not. I carefully removed as much loose rust as I could and used rust converter to hopefully prolong its life. I will drive it as long I as can and then make a decision on whether or not to replace it.