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Lots of suspension questions.

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by bmf4069, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. Sep 15, 2018 at 3:43 PM
    #1
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 [OP] New Member

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    I'm pretty sure I need every bushing in every part of the suspension and steering systems replaced. EVERY bushing. I can't find a complete kit or list of all the bushings I may need. Where can I find that? And should control arms or ball joints be done too? I got a few pics from under the truck. And how do the bilstein 5100s work? How do they lift the front end? And does it change any of the rebound length by extending the shock? And why are they better than the spacers for leveling? I went through 12 pages on here but couldn't find why and how they work or why spacers suck. I was thinking of the toytec space kit with the drop thingy.

    20180915_170443.jpg
    20180915_170531.jpg
     
  2. Sep 15, 2018 at 5:36 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Aluminum sideboxes
    Here is what I had done by (4wheel Parts) about 3 months ago:

    New billy 5100’s (set at one up from stock height)
    New lower ball joints (oem toy)
    New lower control arms (oem toy)
    New cam bolts (after markets)
    New front brake pads and rotors (after markets)
    Full alignment with printout (tires seem toed in more than ever but I like it)
    New front sway links installed onto original bar (old ones rusted off) kept same bushings

    They did a very good job. Truck rides sporty and is ‘tight’ again. No more squeaky bushings. Gained a little extra height even in the back with the new shocks. I’m not into the full heavy lift look and wanted to just get the front nose up a bit but not ‘level’. I like a little rake.

    The front shocks kept the original springs. I do not feel any negative change. The lift is maybe 1/2” to an inch max. Rear lifted about the same (even though some say its not suppose to!) as it takes more cranks to get the trailer hitch hooked.

    Toyota.parts.com was cheaper on the lower control arms and ball joints than the ‘after market’ stuff they tried to sell me. I prefer to keep things original than start funking things up that snowball into other problems.

    I kept the original tie rods and upper ball joints as they were deemed not needing replacement and in good shape. Hope this helps! Its expensive, but well worth it to have someone else do it in my case. I did have to square up the rear leafs which were ‘splayed’ a bit prior to the work. After the work, I think the additional rear height made them splay a bit more. I squared them up and put on some 2.5 u-bolts from auto store.

    Overall, the ride is slightly firm sporty. Towing is very nice and stable. Side to side action feels strong.
     
    LaaMahTundra likes this.
  3. Sep 15, 2018 at 6:08 PM
    #3
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, my ride is squishy at best. It feels like worn shocks but they're new. And it rolls like 70s Cadillac in turns. Just soft soft soft. And I noticed my leafs were splayed out too. And it squeaks, whines, groans, and grinds.
     
  4. Sep 15, 2018 at 6:15 PM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Yeah bud. Time for a redo. You can follow that same template as above with the work I did. She will feel new and alive again! Not sure about the grinding noise though.

    Is your swaybar connected?
     
  5. Sep 15, 2018 at 6:18 PM
    #5
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, but I think the end link bushings are toast. Pretty sure the grinding is the wheel bearings chewing their way out.
     
  6. Sep 16, 2018 at 8:45 AM
    #6
    Darkness

    Darkness New Member

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    Most parts you can buy wherever but for the lower and upper ball joints I recommend Toyota. Too much at stake to go cheap.
     
  7. Sep 21, 2018 at 9:06 PM
    #7
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 [OP] New Member

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    So aside from the glaring issues I'm facing and what Darkness/PHM recommended, can anyone give some info on my other questions?
     
  8. Sep 24, 2018 at 10:06 PM
    #8
    L3TT3RS

    L3TT3RS New Member

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    From your pics it looks like you have a torn CV boot which has slung all your axle grease out which has caused the caked up dirt on your front end. Bushings and ball joints should be sourced thru toyota unless you plan on going long travel. The bilstein adjustable height shocks are in theory better than the spacer lifts because it adjusts the preload on the spring(making the space for the spring between the perch and top hat smaller). With this type of lift/level it will reduce your overall suspension travel. With a spacer lift, depending on which is chosen, the kind that goes under the top hat of the "strut" or they go above the "strut" assembly. Of the two spaces, the kind that goes into the assembly is in theory the same as the bilstein. The kind that go above the top hat are what causes people issues. It forces the suspension to be nearer the top of its droop at "ride height"( well both the bilsteins and spacers do this) when you place a spacer on top of the top hat it makes for bad geometry. The wheel tries to travel it's full arc as designed with the factory components and travels past where it should stop, thus increasing the potential for premature wear and catastrophic failure of suspension components.

    The grinding noise could me several things. Your best bet now is to get the under carriage cleaned up as best is possible and assess the bushings. If they are cracked and brittle then yes consider changing. You can test ball joints by jacking up the wheel off the ground. If you have play from side to side means you have bad ball joints.

    Good things to know are mileage on vehicle and what kind of life it has lived. That would influence my decision on what parts to replace.

    Hope this helps.
     
    bmf4069 [OP] likes this.
  9. Sep 25, 2018 at 7:46 PM
    #9
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 [OP] New Member

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    314k miles and it was decently maintained. But it did have a rough life as a work truck. And that's some good info on the leveling stuff. Thank you!
     
    L3TT3RS likes this.
  10. Sep 27, 2018 at 3:23 PM
    #10
    L3TT3RS

    L3TT3RS New Member

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    At that mileage it would probably be a good idea to start with the CV and to have a shop check on the condition of your front diff. After that I'd say get all the bushings and ball joints replaced if they havent been recently replaced and then consider lifting options after that. The best bang for your buck is going to be the toytec boss kit for the tundra. Alternatively the bilstein kit is great for a disposable Choice. Safety then looks/performance.
    Additionally make sure that the timing belt has been recently changed and all the fluids have been changed recently. Those engines last forever if the general maintenance is maintained.
     

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