looking for drain bolt, oil filter torque spec

I was able to search online but hear different options.

2021 5.7 tundra

thanks guys

 

Toyota has a lot of consistency from model to model. Here are my oil change notes:

 

thanks yeah I was finding 30 as well.

 

Drain bolt: snug it down a little. If a drip forms later, then snug it a little tighter. The key is to not over tighten it.
Filter: It uses an o-ring. It won't increase the seal by making it tighter. So over tightening does nothing but make it harder to remove later.

 

30lbs is pretty standard for an alum crush washer. I replace mine each time.

$7 90430-12031 (24Pcs) Aluminum Oil Drain Plug Gaskets Fits for Toyota Lexus Scion Crush Washer Seals Replaces# 9043012031

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FDH28B2
Honda's spec. is 29lbs. IIRC

 

Fumoto valve!

 

Eh, I don't daily drive the tundra so my OCI is 1x per year.

 

Drain bolt just snug it, you can pretty much tell where its supposed to be. Been doing oil changes since I was 17 and never use a torque wrench on one. The oil filter there is a metal tab that helps make sure it doesnt loosen, you can see the notch where its meant to lock in, so just tighten til it gets there.

 

it's 30 foot pounds, but i put it on hand tight, then a quarter or less turn with socket. been working for me on five different toyotas for past 10 years.

 

I’ve just gone gutentight on my Tundras for the last 14 years with zero issue… I know it’s a German spec but still…

 

Is that the same torque spec of a 1/4 turn before it strips?

 

Never put a torque wrench on those items and never will.

 

Im ashamed to admit I don't even own a toque wrench. I've been meaning to get one but have yet to come to a regular maintenance scenario where I actually need one. I'm sure there are actual scenarios to need one but oil chances, tire rotations, brakes, ect I've never seen the need, if anyone thinks a mechanic is grabbing a torque wrench and looking up the correct torque for each job you're grossly mistaken. Im sure there are those guys out there and I commend them but in all reality the biggest issue is shops putting things on with air guns. If you hand tighten everything and are not a psychopath you won't have an issue figuring out when to stop.

 

May I make a recommendation?

$60 LEXIVON 1/2" Drive Click Torque Wrench 25-250 Ft-Lb/33.9-338.9 Nm (LX-184)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MKSJ4SG?_encoding=UTF8

 

Joe, I agree with you, however, I did pick up a torque wrench several years ago. I do use it for lug nuts, and I just put in new Powerstop front brakes last night (6/7/22), so I used it for the two 19mm bolts holding the calipers on. It not only works as an expensive 1/2" breaker bar, but if your truck is under warranty and dealer finds you over or under tightened something (hard to prove), they could use that as an excuse to not cover something. I did also use it for putting the drain plugs back into both diffs and transfer case. I know, overkill, but I guess it was just peace of mind for me on those things. But I don't use it on the oil drain plug...probably because I've done it so many times that I know by feel what works. Haven't had one drop out on me yet, and haven't had one stuck....except on the rare occasions I've had the dealer do work. Jeez they put shit on way too tight!

 

Here's the 1/2" torque wrench I got.

$72 TEKTON 1/2" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | 24340

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340...54701187&sprefix=tekton+torque,aps,128&sr=8-5

 

no, that’s the dealer tech putting the oil filter housing back on with their impact gun

 

I own a 3/8" and a 1/2". I always torque front end parts and lug nuts. Heads are critical to torque but have not needed to pull a head for quite a while. On boat motors they should be retorqued at X hours.